Vorteks Thoughts on my plan to stop motor mount bending on 3s cars?

[Glitch]

Hi all!
Just wanted a few opinions on my plan to stop motor mount bending on my vorteks.

1. Replace stock plate (and mount, whatever) with this- the new thicker Arrma plate. https://jennysrc.com/collections/ou...uminum-motor-mount-set-heatsink-fan-ara4408v2

2. Get a couple 36mm O rings to strap around either end of the heat sink to prevent motor moving down.

3. Attach those screws that many have had success with into the chassis

4. Put a small piece of curved foam under the end of the motor to effectively do the same thing as the o rings

Does this sound like it’ll work? Could I just use the stock plate or a cheap Amazon plate instead of getting the new Arrma one?
Thanks!

 

[quiznatodd bidness]

Probably any one of those things will do it for you.
There are some higher priced fixes as well, like the m2c mount, and there are a few people making a whole aluminum module to replace all the plastic housing and mount plate. Rcmadlabz has one on his ebay store, and Amazon lists a few varieties now.

 

[Xjeepguy]

I used the M2C one and it was 100% worth every penny.

 

[RCbuzz]

Hi all!
Just wanted a few opinions on my plan to stop motor mount bending on my vorteks.

1. Replace stock plate (and mount, whatever) with this- the new thicker Arrma plate. https://jennysrc.com/collections/ou...uminum-motor-mount-set-heatsink-fan-ara4408v2

2. Get a couple 36mm O rings to strap around either end of the heat sink to prevent motor moving down.

3. Attach those screws that many have had success with into the chassis

4. Put a small piece of curved foam under the end of the motor to effectively do the same thing as the o rings

Does this sound like it’ll work? Could I just use the stock plate or a cheap Amazon plate instead of getting the new Arrma one?
Thanks!

I have not heard of anyone bending the new thicker motor plate yet.

That being said I have heard you will need shims for the new plate as many were not cut very well for the bearing opening.

After we bent ours I grabbed one off Ebay (king hobby) and to my surprise no bends yet. https://www.ebay.com/itm/334082998807 (YMMV)

 

[Warby]

Option 1 (6mm thick motor plate) is a good start. Any of those options will help but keep in mind having something between the motor and chassis only prevents it from bending down. If it has a hard roof landing it could bend the other way.
Or
I haven't seen anyone bend the M2C solution yet

 

[Rocketzx1]

I bought the hot racing version, it’s one of their parts that’s well made and isn’t junk. Hot racing is hit or miss depending on the part, and their motor plate has worked very well so far. I think it’s 48 for the Hot racing plate.

 

[slick2500]

I bought the hot racing version, it’s one of their parts that’s well made and isn’t junk. Hot racing is hit or miss depending on the part, and their motor plate has worked very well so far. I think it’s 48 for the Hot racing plate.

I thought it was like $20? Or do they have a different one now?

 

[Hector_Fisher]

In my experience, the type of bending on the stock motor plate isn't from hard 4-wheel landing, its from frontal impacts, like landing a jump on the nose. So the only suggestion from the list that would work for that is the thicker motor plate. O-rings and the chassis screws don't prevent forward pulling of the motor on the motor plate.

I'd start with the thicker motor plate and go from there. I haven't had issues running a large 4068 motor with the thicker motor plate.

 

[SrC]

I used the M2C one and it was 100% worth every penny.

Yeah M2C is worth every penny only because it appears to be "the only solid Fix" for that whole Arrma Design dilema.
At $70.00. I believe. A considerable cost considering the whole price of a 4x4. Expensive, but One and Done.

 

[RCbuzz]

In my experience, the type of bending on the stock motor plate isn't from hard 4-wheel landing, its from frontal impacts, like landing a jump on the nose. So the only suggestion from the list that would work for that is the thicker motor plate. O-rings and the chassis screws don't prevent forward pulling of the motor on the motor plate.

I'd start with the thicker motor plate and go from there. I haven't had issues running a large 4068 motor with the thicker motor plate.

This is a good point, I am thinking that is what took out our original plate. Has anyone actually had an issue with the revised plate?

I don't think I have seen one issue with the 6mm plate, probably a good place to start. I was surprised my Ebay plate has worked so well, maybe its actually 7075.

 

[SrC]

Yeah the key is to have quality 7075 alloy. ( M2C)
If you don't know if it is or the seller has no clue, it can be mixed bag.
If you get lucky, great.

 

[Hector_Fisher]

This is a good point, I am thinking that is what took out our original plate. Has anyone actually had an issue with the revised plate?

I don't think I have seen one issue with the 6mm plate, probably a good place to start. I was surprised my Ebay plate has worked so well, maybe its actually 7075.

Link to your ebay plate?

 

[RCbuzz]

Link to your ebay plate?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/334082998807 They were much more expensive when I got it.

 

[Velodromed]

I have not heard of anyone bending the new thicker motor plate yet.

That being said I have heard you will need shims for the new plate as many were not cut very well for the bearing opening.

After we bent ours I grabbed one off Ebay (king hobby) and to my surprise no bends yet. https://www.ebay.com/itm/334082998807 (YMMV)

yeah. A few too many lawn darts with my granite bowed a new 6mm mount out from the center. Sure took a lot of effort though. I hammered it back to straight.

Both of my m2c mounts/brace are still in very good shape. They are around 2 years old and each has been in several different cars. They are now in my 4s builds and still truckin’. They may be pricey but last a long time.

I do keep a 3mm thick o-ring around the back of the motor can regardless of the mount. It helps with hard chassis slap style landings. That’s the original fix I tried and works decent. It doesn’t help much when landing on the roof though, so rubberside down is always best.

 

[RCbuzz]

yeah. A few too many lawn darts with my granite bowed a new 6mm mount out from the center. Sure took a lot of effort though. I hammered it back to straight.

Both of my m2c mounts/brace are still in very good shape. They are around 2 years old and each has been in several different cars. They are now in my 4s builds and still truckin’. They may be pricey but last a long time.

I do keep a 3mm thick o-ring around the back of the motor can regardless of the mount. It helps with hard chassis slap style landings. That’s the original fix I tried and works decent. It doesn’t help much when landing on the roof though, so rubberside down is always best.

I find myself surprised with some of the crazy hits the 3S line takes and drives away.. Specifically at the skate park.

I had a feeling if anyone bent the new plate it was you Velo.

 

[Velodromed]

I find myself surprised with some of the crazy hits the 3S line takes and drives away.. Specifically at the skate park.

I had a feeling if anyone bent the new plate it was you Velo.

Yup! And that’s where it was at also, the skate park my granite is my only 3s car now, besides my wife’s big rock. My 4s builds are my favorite cars now.

 

[SrC]

@Velodromed , I give you credit, you got these 4x4's down to a science.

 

[Just a hobby]

Hi all!
Just wanted a few opinions on my plan to stop motor mount bending on my vorteks.

1. Replace stock plate (and mount, whatever) with this- the new thicker Arrma plate. https://jennysrc.com/collections/ou...uminum-motor-mount-set-heatsink-fan-ara4408v2

2. Get a couple 36mm O rings to strap around either end of the heat sink to prevent motor moving down.

3. Attach those screws that many have had success with into the chassis

4. Put a small piece of curved foam under the end of the motor to effectively do the same thing as the o rings

Does this sound like it’ll work? Could I just use the stock plate or a cheap Amazon plate instead of getting the new Arrma one?
Thanks!

This is 10$ https://www.ebay.com/itm/2850126017...zbksbv6rzo&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

[slick2500]

I bought the hot racing version, it’s one of their parts that’s well made and isn’t junk. Hot racing is hit or miss depending on the part, and their motor plate has worked very well so far. I think it’s 48 for the Hot racing plate.

Or were you talking about this one? https://hot-racing.com/?partnumber=ATF18MX01;c=1345

 

[Velodromed]

@Velodromed , I give you credit, you got these 4x4's down to a science.

Thank you