Thread lock for aluminum shock caps?

Hector_Fisher

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Replacing stock plastic shock caps with aluminum ones on my Kaiju. Metal to metal fasteners usually needs threadlock. But I've never seen anyone put threadlock on a shock cap. At least I haven't SEEN đź‘€ it.
20221223_093801.jpg
 

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Never heard of anyone using thread lock on shock caps I've never have. They don't come loose on their own probably because the way it's attached at the top and the way you have the spring applying pressure it's like having its own built-in lock nut.
 

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Nope never used thread lock on shock caps
let me ask is there a bladder or o-ring type shock?
Bladder. There's compression from the bladder seat, so I'm not super worried. Just never had aluminum shock caps before.
 

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Your aluminum shock caps attach to your shock standoffs, it’s impossible for them to back out on the top side. They’re stationary. Lower eyelet mount goes into the a-arm, same scenario. Doesn’t matter if they’re emulsion type shocks or have bladders, makes no difference at all. Yes, the spring/lower perch could conceivably rotate a little during use, but I don’t see any way a shock cap could unscrew itself while installed in the rig. I don’t even tighten the caps too tightly, just enough to compress the o-rings/bladders and snug them up. Overtightening aluminum shocks after rebuilding can cut or damage the top bladders or o-rings even with plastic caps.
 

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Your aluminum shock caps attach to your shock standoffs, it’s impossible for them to back out on the top side. They’re stationary. Lower eyelet mount goes into the a-arm, same scenario. Doesn’t matter if they’re emulsion type shocks or have bladders, makes no difference at all. Yes, the spring/lower perch could conceivably rotate a little during use, but I don’t see any way a shock cap could unscrew itself while installed in the rig. I don’t even tighten the caps too tightly, just enough to compress the o-rings/bladders and snug them up. Overtightening aluminum shocks after rebuilding can cut or damage the top bladders or o-rings even with plastic caps.
one of my shock caps came off when I was driving but I thing I had unscrewed it when adjusting my shock collars :D
 

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Your aluminum shock caps attach to your shock standoffs, it’s impossible for them to back out on the top side. They’re stationary. Lower eyelet mount goes into the a-arm, same scenario. Doesn’t matter if they’re emulsion type shocks or have bladders, makes no difference at all. Yes, the spring/lower perch could conceivably rotate a little during use, but I don’t see any way a shock cap could unscrew itself while installed in the rig. I don’t even tighten the caps too tightly, just enough to compress the o-rings/bladders and snug them up. Overtightening aluminum shocks after rebuilding can cut or damage the top bladders or o-rings even with plastic caps.
I agree, the caps can't fall off. I have however seen the shock body come unthreaded from the cap. My brother's E Revo. He was adjusting the spring preload with the threaded collar..well, the body actually came completely out of the cap and dumped fluid all over the place! LOL.
Idk if you're familiar with the E Revo, but the shocks are a female dog to work on, plus they're mounted horizontally..
I have found shock bodies loose on my own rigs as well while adjusting spring preload. Never had one unthread itself though.
 

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Replacing stock plastic shock caps with aluminum ones on my Kaiju. Metal to metal fasteners usually needs threadlock. But I've never seen anyone put threadlock on a shock cap. At least I haven't SEEN đź‘€ it.
View attachment 264530
Don't do it!
TL will ruin the whole shock. With shock bodies/caps , TL is not necessary.

>>> However........... I always use TL Blue, (#243 Oil Tolerant), on the Retaining Nuts for the Pistons at the shafts. The Nuts can loosen with use, being immersed in Shock oil, then pistons can split or crack. Been there. I learned this tip, building my Tekno Shocks.
Also, Never bear down on the piston nuts, as this can also cause Pistons to split. The Piston should still rotate slightly, but with some drag/effort.
:cool:
 
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hobo

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Don't do it!
TL will ruin the whole shock. With shock bodies/caps , TL is not necessary.

>>> However........... I always use TL Blue, (#243 Oil Tolerant), on the Retaining Nuts for the Pistons at the shaft. The Nuts do loosen with use, being immersed in Shock oil, then pistons can split or crack. Been there. I learned this tip, building my Tekno Shocks.
Also, Never bear down on the piston nuts, as this can also cause them to split. The Piston should still rotate slightly, but with some drag/effort.
:cool:
good to no that you learn something new ever day broke a few pistons will try that next time I do shock maintenance cheers
 

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I am very anal about my Shocks. This harkens back to my Track days. Can't help myself.:cool:
 
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