Kraton Thread lock on aluminum hubs?

[dure16]

I got some new front hubs from Treal and man they are sexy. A quick question though:

When using aluminum hubs, do y'all use thread lock on the large aluminum screws that hold the pillow balls in place? There's an o-ring on that large screw but I'm not sure how well that holds on its own.

Thanks

 

[SrC]

No, don't use any type of TL on that.
In the past I have used teflon tape as a substitute for the o-ring with good results. When Arrma did not have the o- ring Type pillow ball Nut.
O-ring will suffice.

 

[KnowAir]

Yep, I agree with @SrC . The o ring provides the friction, in theory at least. Hmm, do my Arrmas (stock) have o rings I really can't recall, LOL.

 

[Garcbomber]

No problems with o-ring locks migrating on aluminum hub.

I do, however, replace the o-ring with a new one every service. Cheap security

 

[slick2500]

Yep, I agree with @SrC . The o ring provides the friction, in theory at least. Hmm, do my Arrmas (stock) have o rings I really can't recall, LOL

Iirc v4 and newer have o rings.

 

[SrC]

Yep, I agree with @SrC . The o ring provides the friction, in theory at least. Hmm, do my Arrmas (stock) have o rings I really can't recall, LOL.

O-ringed PB nuts started with Arrma v4, if I am correct. V5's all have them now on any 6s rig out the box. M2C actually made them first, because it was a big complaint. Now Arrma updated with the O rings.
I always hash mark my PB's after they are adjusted,.I check the hash mark to observe if there was any backing out. After a few runs. O-ringed stockers never backed out on me. As long as you properly seat the delcate O-rin onto the PB nut. In a pinch use teflon tape.
PB's need to be cleaned out and readjusted very often. They can bind up with fine Clay etc and literally lock the Steering. Then the Servo is next to fail. Been there just once with my Closed wheeled Mojave. Dirt is forced into the Pb's because the body fenders. the dirt churns up into the Pb's mores so than an open wheeled rig. Add that I run the Scortched Fenders...The Mojave needs alot of frequent PB cleaning IMHO. I am sure some others with the Mojo noticed that. Much depends where you bash. I am mostly on Clay Baseball fields With the Mojo, FT and Kraton.

 

[KnowAir]

O-ringed PB nuts started with Arrma v4, if I am correct. V5's all have them now on any 6s rig out the box. M2C actually made them first, because it was a big complaint. Now Arrma updated with the O rings.
I always hash mark my PB's after they are adjusted,.I check the hash mark to observe if there was any backing out. O-ringed stockers never backed out on me. As long as you properly seat the delcate O-rin onto the PB nut. In a pinch use teflon tape.

Good info. I haven't noticed mine backing out, but one of my brother's v5 rtr's has been, can'tremember which..bet he's missing the o ring.. We'll have to investigate next time we run together. I've got teflon tape kicking around somewhere..thanks!
On a side note, we've had some success with teflon tape as a temporary repair after stripping the threads out on the arms of one of his E Revo's too. Where the pivot ball threads in. Wrapped the threads of the ball itself..Kept him running for a while..till he picked up some replacement arms.

 

[slick2500]

Good info. I haven't noticed mine backing out, but one of my brother's v5 rtr's has been, can'tremember which..bet he's missing the o ring.. We'll have to investigate next time we run together. I've got teflon tape kicking around somewhere..thanks!
On a side note, we've had some success with teflon tape as a temporary repair after stripping the threads out on the arms of one of his E Revo's too. Where the pivot ball threads in. Wrapped the threads of the ball itself..Kept him running for a while..till he picked up some replacement arms.

Nah sometimes they just like to back out. I have one on my EXB that doesn't like to stay put.

 

[KnowAir]

Nah sometimes they just like to back out. I have one on my EXB that doesn't like to stay put.

Maybe try the teflon tape?

 

[SrC]

The O rings are delicate. And won't usually last long. Early on, the factory was installing them all cross threaded and the O-rings squeezed out and torn. I got a few samples of messd up BP nuts out the box. I make HH warranty it. Did that five times at least . Sometimes 3 of the 4 are all screwed up hubs also. I don't know if the O-rings are available separately. I know they came with my Nuts uninstalled.

Nah sometimes they just like to back out. I have one on my EXB that doesn't like to stay put.

Is that on a stocker plastic Hub that it happens? Or alloy UG.
I find if you seat the PBs very well by tightening them then backing out till the PB flops.... Usually getting a better purchase of the O-ring. O rings should have been placed 1/2 way downd the threads. Then it would be foolproof. Isn't that how M2C does theirs?

 

[slick2500]

The O rings are delicate. And won't usually last long. Early on, the factory was installing them all cross threaded and the O-rings squeezed out and torn. I got a few samples of messd up BP nuts out the box. I make HH warranty it. Did that five times at least . Sometimes 3 of the 4 are all screwed up hubs also. I don't know if the O-rings are available separately. I know they came with my Nuts uninstalled.

Is that on a stocker plastic Hub that it happens? Or alloy UG.
I find if you seat the PBs very well by tightening them then backing out till the PB flops.... Usually getting a better purchase of the O-ring. O rings should have been placed 1/2 way downd the threads. Then it would be foolproof. Isn't that how M2C does theirs?

Stock.

 

[SrC]

Yep, I agree with @SrC . The o ring provides the friction, in theory at least. Hmm, do my Arrmas (stock) have o rings I really can't recall, LOL.

I guess you don't adjust and service your PB's much??
Nut O-rings are right there in plain view (if you do have them), once you remove them or even back them out slightly.

 

[joshludden]

O-ringed PB nuts started with Arrma v4, if I am correct. V5's all have them now on any 6s rig out the box. M2C actually made them first, because it was a big complaint. Now Arrma updated with the O rings.
I always hash mark my PB's after they are adjusted,.I check the hash mark to observe if there was any backing out. After a few runs. O-ringed stockers never backed out on me. As long as you properly seat the delcate O-rin onto the PB nut. In a pinch use teflon tape.
PB's need to be cleaned out and readjusted very often. They can bind up with fine Clay etc and literally lock the Steering. Then the Servo is next to fail. Been there just once with my Closed wheeled Mojave. Dirt is forced into the Pb's because the body fenders. the dirt churns up into the Pb's mores so than an open wheeled rig. Add that I run the Scortched Fenders...The Mojave needs alot of frequent PB cleaning IMHO. I am sure some others with the Mojo noticed that. Much depends where you bash. I am mostly on Clay Baseball fields With the Mojo, FT and Kraton.

Do you use dry lube for your PBS? I run on wet conditions a lot & they get rusty looking & kinda start binding more. I've hit em w/ some fine grit sandpaper (2000) to clean em up, should I not disturb the factory coating?

 

[SrC]

The PB's are Chrome plated. And not really quality machined smooth and perfectly round, IMHO. But I place them in a Drill chuck and polish them well with Jewelers Rouge polish. I clean out the Hubs etc. I have used Dry wax type lubes. Lasts for a bit. But Dry Graphite powder or even a Pencil rubbed into the PB is good. Track guys do this alot. Other wise best to leave them dry. Use No oils or greases.

But they will always foul out and need to be cleaned on regular basis, then adjusted again, IMHO. Most never check them at all. And end up with Servo failures, Overheated servo,and poor sluggish/binding steering etc. The only way to check for free play and adjusting PB's is to isolate/disconnect the servo arm from the belcrank to observe for a free moving Belcrank/ PB's.
A reminder to replace the (4) stocker Steering Bushings with Rubber sealed BB's. Helps greatly. This should be done as a mandatory upgrade out the box.
The Typhon TLR is the only Arrma 6s rig to have BB's already installed out the box. All other 6s Arrmas have brass Oilite bushings. They suck. Toss them right away. And although a chore (much disassembly) , it's a great practice excercise, to swap those ST BB's out.

 

[KnowAir]

I guess you don't adjust and service your PB's much??
Nut O-rings are right there in plain view (if you do have them), once you remove them or even back them out slightly.

No Sir. If it ain't broke, I can't fix it I've not seen a need for "servicing" pivot balls, am I missing something? Sure, I grab the wheels and check for free play at the pivots, but aside from "snugging" up the caps, nothing else. Lube? Never..just attracts dirt. I've seen the "seals" that TRX put on the E Revo caps..no thanks. Collectors is more like what they are.
I've been running rigs with pivot ball suspension for nearly 15 years now.. never had a problem other than the occasional cross threading.

 

[SrC]

Well all I can say is that if you run in fine clay, the PB's/hubs will always take a toll. Quite easily.
I like to keep them clean and I can make them on the tighter side. I check them after a day of bashing. And I clean them when I service my diffs, aprox. every 20 or so packs, or sooner as needed. This keeps my Steering, toe, camber, castor and roll center much more precise.
For bashing use, many don't go the extra mile I guess.

 

[KnowAir]

Well all I can say is that if you run in fine clay, the PB's will always take a toll. Quite easily.
I like to keep them clean and I can make them on the tighter side. I check them after a day of bashing. And I clean them when I service my diffs, aprox. every 20 or so packs.This keeps my Steering, toe, camber, castor and roll center much more precise.
For bashing use, many don't go the extra mile I guess.

Understood..you take the "high", I'll take the "low"..
My Mojo pivots have never been serviced.. tightened, but that's it. I even have a brand new set of spares in a drawer..2 plus years of clay, mud, snow..
Might I add, this is exactly why I'll never buy aluminum hubs. In my experience, compostite is far more wear resistant than aluminum. Heck, when we rebuild warehouse pallet jacks at work, we convert all the greasable metal pivot bushings to greaseless compostite bushings because they last longer and never need lubrication. It's a win, win. Less maintenance, longer service life.