Raider Tip for new Arrma Raider XL Owners

[ajdragon]

Hi

Remove the wing before you start driving, other wise it will brake off the first time you roll it. At least that's what mine did, and I personally think it looks better with out it.

 

[WoodiE]

Or don't roll it. haha

 

[Steve]

Cartwheels can lead to that also.
Before you say it WoodiE; what would the RC world be without cartwheels...
The flanges on the roll cage that hold the wing busted on my 1/10th Raider. I bought a replacement roll cage but haven't changed it yet, it's easier to attach a GoPro/SJCAM with the wing out of the way.

 

[ajdragon]

Hi

Another Tip: When you first get your Arrma RTR RC take the time to go over everything and make sure all of the screws are tight and all of the fluids in the shocks and diff gear are at the right levels. Remember RTR does not mean Ready to Run when it comes to Arrma, it means Ready to Rebuild, that makes it almost as fun as building a kit "ALMOST".

 

[Steve]

Hi

Another Tip: When you first get your Arrma RTR RC take the time to go over everything and make sure all of the screws are tight and all of the fluids in the shocks and diff gear are at the right levels. Remember RTR does not mean Ready to Run when it comes to Arrma, it means Ready to Rebuild, that makes it almost as fun as building a kit "ALMOST".

I'd have preferred to have not learned that the hard way, lol!

 

[ajdragon]

Hi

New Tip for making the closing of the battery cover easier. If you cut off 1/2 an inch of the rear battery pad like I did (See arrow 1). Then you trim the piece you cut off so that it is 7/8" tall, 2" wide, by 1/2" thick, and then put it in the front of the battery compartment like I did (See Arrow 2). Doing this moves the batter wires out of the way so that the hatch pin can slide threw easily. Picture #2 shows the end results.

 

[ajdragon]

Hi

A word of advise to new and future new Arrma owners, if you are going to buy a Arrma RC you need to be prepared to replace all of the electronics. I would test the electronics to make sure it all works and then I would put it aside to use as a backup system. Do some research and get the best electronics that you can afford. If you got one of the Brushed Arrma RC's and you don't want to upgrade to BL I would recommend getting a older Tekin or Novak ESC, these can take a hell of a beating. One that I would recommend is the Tekin Rebel 2 ESC, you can find them on eBay ever so often, and it's worth every cent you pay for it.

Here are the specs for the Tekin Rebel 2 ESC if you are interested.
http://www.teamtekin.com/manuals/REBEL2 MANUAL.pdf

 

[justatree]

I'd have preferred to have not learned that the hard way, lol!

now im scared

 

[Rooles]

It's okay guys. Customer service is taking care of us. Yea it sucks that they are this way. But once you get them going, they take a beating!

 

[ajdragon]

Hi

A couple of years ago Duratrax sold a RTR street car called the Street Force GP for $200.00 and a no questions asked 1 or 2 year warranty. After about 2 months of braking parts left and right and then waiting for parts to come in I gave up on it and sold it for half the price. That RTR RC soured me towards RTR's and it wasn't until I saw the videos of the Arrma Raider that I thought I would give RTR another try. I am pleased that the Raider XL is half way decent, but the electronics really suck. The radio and receiver are still in the box never used, and I will be getting a new servo "the Turnigy 1258" here in a couple of months. And if the ESC starts crapping out on me I'll replace that with something half way decent, but only after I get the warranty replacement back.

 

[justatree]

Arrma should give lifetime warranty lol

 

[sparky_malone]

Hi

Remove the wing before you start driving, other wise it will brake off the first time you roll it. At least that's what mine did, and I personally think it looks better with out it.

I think i have been lucky with this one as ive flipped, rolled and cartwheeled my 1/10 raider as its not broken off. I noticed the top of the rear tower and shocks were taking a good scraping during crashes so i took some old plastic tie rods and chopped the ends off so i had a tough plastic tube and then just used them as risers to lift the spoiler. It has alot of flex so is very forgiving and takes alot of impact with out damage/breaking.

 

[sparky_malone]

Hi

A word of advise to new and future new Arrma owners, if you are going to buy a Arrma RC you need to be prepared to replace all of the electronics. I would test the electronics to make sure it all works and then I would put it aside to use as a backup system. Do some research and get the best electronics that you can afford. If you got one of the Brushed Arrma RC's and you don't want to upgrade to BL I would recommend getting a older Tekin or Novak ESC, these can take a hell of a beating. One that I would recommend is the Tekin Rebel 2 ESC, you can find them on eBay ever so often, and it's worth every cent you pay for it.

Here are the specs for the Tekin Rebel 2 ESC if you are interested.
http://www.teamtekin.com/manuals/REBEL2 MANUAL.pdf

I have got back my esc under warranty with a new motor to go with it Gave it a quick test and all seems good but im serously considering either selling it on or keeping as a spare/spare set. I have a skyrc leopard system for my back up and i am going to buy either this
http://www.castlecreations.com/products/mamba_max_pro.html
or this
http://www.castlecreations.com/products/mamba_max_pro_sct.html
for my main system still undecided..........
Do you think this is the best idea and that the arrma stuff will inevitably break again very soon.
The fan on this esc is really powerful im surprised is doesn't take off lol

 

[ajdragon]

Hi

I have figured out what RTR stands for when it come to Arrma Ready To Redesign.

 

[nismo_be]

i Bought a Raider XL BLX, drove 10 meter and the bloddy thing stopt moving.
Went to the store i got it from, Got a new one and this one works fine.

But now i am looking for some street tyres, the problem for me is that the car is 1/8 scale , but the 1/8 scale wheels all have a bigger hole in the middle so i don't know what i need to get .... or rather how to be sure that i get the right tyre size and width and such. can anyone point me in the right direction?

and i also have no clue where to order them. i'm in belgium so i think ordering in the states would be more expensive.
Any info about these things is much apriciated.

 

[ajdragon]

Hi

The Raider XL uses the same tires as the the 1/10 Short Course Trucks and Buggies. That would be 3.0" X 2.2" tires and rims.

Here is a link to some that will work.

https://www.jconcepts.net/shop/tires/short-course