Typhon 6s with Castle 1515 going through rotors and I don't know why

[feedle]

Hello, I'm having an issue with my Typhon 6s. I just ruined my second castle 1515 2200kv motor (rotors finally came back in stock, so I ordered a new one this time rather than a whole motor).

Anyway, my motor suddenly got hot (it has always ran barely warm to the touch after a hard bashing session) and reeked. Presumably, it hit the temp cutoff on the ESC since it was beeping and well, it wouldn't attempt to move if I hit the throttle. The motor became harder to turn though so I knew I cooked the rotor again. Unfortunately I don't have data logs from when it happened. Temp cutoff for the first time it happened was 170f and the second time was I believe 150 or 140. I'll attach photos of the rotors.

Basically, my question is why does this just suddenly happen? First time it happened was in grass bashing around, second time in a parking lot doing speed runs.

My esc is a Castle Mamba Monster X and I've got a Hoovo 6s lipo. 17t pinion, stock spur. If you need more info, ask away.

Top is the first time it happened. These are two different motors as well, rotors weren't in stock when it happened the first time.

rip motor #1, Nov 28 - Jan 12

rip motor #2, Jan 12 - Mar 19

 

[joshludden]

Hello, I'm having an issue with my Typhon 6s. I just ruined my second castle 1515 2200kv motor (rotors finally came back in stock, so I ordered a new one this time rather than a whole motor).

Anyway, my motor suddenly got hot (it has always ran barely warm to the touch after a hard bashing session) and reeked. Presumably, it hit the temp cutoff on the ESC since it was beeping and well, it wouldn't attempt to move if I hit the throttle. The motor became harder to turn though so I knew I cooked the rotor again. Unfortunately I don't have data logs from when it happened. Temp cutoff for the first time it happened was 170f and the second time was I believe 150 or 140. I'll attach photos of the rotors.

Basically, my question is why does this just suddenly happen? First time it happened was in grass bashing around, second time in a parking lot doing speed runs.

My esc is a Castle Mamba Monster X and I've got a Hoovo 6s lipo. 17t pinion, stock spur. If you need more info, ask away.

Top is the first time it happened. These are two different motors as well, rotors weren't in stock when it happened the first time.
View attachment 286981
rip motor #1, Nov 28 - Jan 12
View attachment 286980
rip motor #2, Jan 12 - Mar 19

Do your internal motor bearings spin freely?

 

[PrerunninF150]

I was going to ask about the bearings as well. Is your mesh too tight? You should also get a temp gun and see how hot the motor is actually getting. The esc cut off is just the esc temp not the actual motor. You may need to start running fans. You should also check to see that your drive train is spinning freely.

 

[feedle]

Do your internal motor bearings spin freely?

Bearings spin freely on both motors I have

I was going to ask about the bearings as well. Is your mesh too tight? You should also get a temp gun and see how hot the motor is actually getting. The esc cut off is just the esc temp not the actual motor. You may need to start running fans. You should also check to see that your drive train is spinning freely.

Bearings spin freely on both motors. I tend to run my mesh with (what I call) a tad loose. I plan on getting a temp gun but this doesn't happen often so I would probably be waiting a while for it to happen again. And the temp cutoff should be the motor temp since it is a sensored Castle system. In the software there is separate options for motor temp and esc temp.

Tore apart the drive train after it happened. Nothing of note, replaced all the bearings (none were seized just a little clapped out). Now assembled waiting for the new rotor to come in assuming the can is even good. Internally I think it looks "alright" and might work fine.

 

[djsarma]

I blew 2 1515 motors the same way. The first motor made it about 10 packs and the 2nd 3 packs. Motor temp cutoff was set to 160f and i got no warning up until they locked up and the rotors blew. I was also running fans.

The kevlar wrap on the rotor is the issue, it cannot withstand either the rpm and/or heat under normal running conditions. Seems to be a common issue on castle motors as ive read about others having the same issue and seen my friends 1717 1260kv do the same.

I actually considered ordering a rotor to fix and give the motor one last shot LOL, but ill pass based off your experience

 

[feedle]

I blew 2 1515 motors the same way. The first motor made it about 10 packs and the 2nd 3 packs. Motor temp cutoff was set to 160f and i got no warning up until they locked up and the rotors blew. I was also running fans.

The kevlar wrap on the rotor is the issue, it cannot withstand either the rpm and/or heat under normal running conditions. Seems to be a common issue on castle motors as ive read about others having the same issue and seen my friends 1717 1260kv do the same.

I was actually considering ordering a rotor to fix and give the motor one last shot LOL, but ill pass based off your experience

Well, at least I'm not the only one. I don't plan to buy Castle motors anymore after this rotor blows up. I love their ESCs but the motors are no good.

 

[dure16]

Why don’t you have the data log? The answer to the question is right there. Detailed motor temp, esc temp, current spikes, RPM, etc. The whole point of the data logging is to diagnose stuff like this.

What temp do you have set for motor cutoff? Any issues with your sensor cable breaking or disconnecting? (Data log would show this)

Are you running a motor fan?

What tires are installed?

I was going to ask about the bearings as well. Is your mesh too tight? You should also get a temp gun and see how hot the motor is actually getting. The esc cut off is just the esc temp not the actual motor. You may need to start running fans. You should also check to see that your drive train is spinning freely.

Castle can turn off the system if the motor itself gets to a set temp. You choose the temp in settings.

 

[ArrmaFreek2022]

I ran a 2200 for speed runs and it never got passed 150 or so. Hit close to 120mph. I did run it as if it was a 1721 though lol. Meaning it was getting a 3-5 min break between runs. Was getting to about 33K RPMs. I opened it up the other day and it looks new inside. I hope this message doesn't jinx it but I'm glad I got lucky. I have considered replacing one of my Firma 2050 motors with the Castle 2200 but have heard it does get hot. Although I can't see how it can get so hot at only 2200 KV 150KV more than the firma. Do you have another vehicle you could try it on, also I'm just thinking what could be causing it since you not getting hot per you, 17t pinion should only get you to like 65 and under 20K rpm. So it could only be a drive train issue IMO. But you said you checked all that. So a real conundrum here.

 

[feedle]

Why don’t you have the data log? The answer to the question is right there. Detailed motor temp, esc temp, current spikes, RPM, etc. The whole point of the data logging is to diagnose stuff like this.

What temp do you have set for motor cutoff? Any issues with your sensor cable breaking or disconnecting? (Data log would show this)

Are you running a motor fan?

What tires are installed?



Castle can turn off the system if the motor itself gets to a set temp. You choose the temp in settings.

My friend is borrowing my castle link at the moment so I'm pretty sure my data capacity is full. I had my temp cutoff on the first one set to 170 and the second is either 140 or 150, I'd have to check once I get my hands on a castle link. No issues with the sensor cable, I've seen the data logs before and I didn't see anything that would indicate an issue. No motor fan since normally the motor only gets warm to the touch, and I believe the overheat is caused by the kevlar shredding. Tires are ProLine Badlands MX buggy tires.

I ran a 2200 for speed runs and it never got passed 150 or so. Hit close to 120mph. I did run it as if it was a 1721 though lol. Meaning it was getting a 3-5 min break between runs. Was getting to about 33K RPMs. I opened it up the other day and it looks new inside. I hope this message doesn't jinx it but I'm glad I got lucky. I have considered replacing one of my Firma 2050 motors with the Castle 2200 but have heard it does get hot. Although I can't see how it can get so hot at only 2200 KV 150KV more than the firma. Do you have another vehicle you could try it on, also I'm just thinking what could be causing it since you not getting hot per you, 17t pinion should only get you to like 65 and under 20K rpm. So it could only be a drive train issue IMO. But you said you checked all that. So a real conundrum here.

It normally runs cool, I'm pretty sure its the kevlar shredding that causes the overheating. No other vehicle to try it on unfortunately, but I just think my V1 chassis is cursed and it's just a sign to upgrade to a v5

 

[djsarma]

Yeah the kevlar shreds then the magnets snap off and contact the stator windings. Mine blew on the pinion end so farthest away from the sensor, it definitely overheated but the sensor couldnt pick it up. If I recall correctly it was around 190f on the can when I checked it after. I reviewed the logs and there was nothing to cause concern, amps, temps, and rpm was all in spec. I wasnt a fan of MMX6s ESC either, my first continued to run for another 10-15 packs with a 4082 motor but had throttle glitches occasionally until it got stuck in a thermal shutdown loop.

Overall this motor/esc combo is best avoided imo, id choose a stock firma 6s combo any day lol. I now run a Corally 2050kv motor and torox 185 ESC in my TLR typhon as a replacement, not sensored but its got more power and runs much cooler

 

[feedle]

Yeah the kevlar shreds then the magnets snap off and contact the stator windings. Mine blew on the pinion end so farthest away from the sensor, it definitely overheated but the sensor couldnt pick it up. If I recall correctly it was around 190f on the can when I checked it after. I reviewed the logs and there was nothing to cause concern, amps, temps, and rpm was all in spec. I wasnt a fan of MMX6s ESC either, my first continued to run for another 10-15 packs with a 4082 motor but had throttle glitches occasionally until it got stuck in a thermal shutdown loop.

Overall this motor/esc combo is best avoided imo, id choose a stock firma 6s combo any day lol. I now run a Corally 2050kv motor and torox 185 ESC in my TLR typhon as a replacement, not sensored but its got more power and runs much cooler

The rotor I ordered is the last chance I'll give castle (at least with motors, I've had no problems with their ESCs personally).

I'll try hobbywing motors next, I'm more of a basher than a racer.

 

[Garcbomber]

Not a good bashing/racing 6S motor IMO, mine lasted 2 track days in a Mojave with fresh bearings each race. Maybe 3-4500 mah packs total.

HW 4278-2200 if you want to rip that gearing on 24V.

 

[feedle]

Not a good bashing/racing 6S motor IMO, mine lasted 2 track days in a Mojave with fresh bearings each race. Maybe 3-4500 mah packs total.

HW 4278-2200 if you want to rip that gearing on 24V.

Yup, that was the motor I was thinking about. I'll get a hobbywing ESC as well to match it because why not