Kraton Updated: Arrma Kraton / Outcast 4s

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In the very near future, Traxxas will be FORCED to bring their prices down. Too much competitively priced competition out there for them not to.

Agree and the old saying something similar to there are no bad RC's only bad prices so they can still sell the old models but for less than now.

Edit: I mean the Haiboxing vs this for 199.95, I guess its bigger and spare parts are easier to get :D

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One thing you also have to remember part of that premium price that Traxxas charges is the fact that the cars are made in Taiwan and not made in China. RC products from Taiwan are always going to be more expensive than similar products from China. China really is the bottom of the barrel when it comes to quality of rc products imho. HPI is the same way. Why do you think the Savage Flux XL is an $700 truck?

Say what you want about the quality of Traxxas parts, after owning nearly 30 cars from numerous different manufacturers I can attest that stock Traxxas parts are no better or worse than stock parts from most every rtr rc on the planet. The only rtr rc that I have ever seen that had above average components out of the box is the HPI Vorza. What would you expect from a ready to run race buggy that hasn't been neutered down for the ready to run market?
 
One thing you also have to remember part of that premium price that Traxxas charges is the fact that the cars are made in Taiwan and not made in China. RC products from Taiwan are always going to be more expensive than similar products from China. China really is the bottom of the barrel when it comes to quality of rc products imho. HPI is the same way. Why do you think the Savage Flux XL is an $700 truck?

Say what you want about the quality of Traxxas parts, after owning nearly 30 cars from numerous different manufacturers I can attest that stock Traxxas parts are no better or worse than stock parts from most every rtr rc on the planet. The only rtr rc that I have ever seen that had above average components out of the box is the HPI Vorza. What would you expect from a ready to run race buggy that hasn't been neutered down for the ready to run market?
I beleive final assembly is in Plano, TX as well. Pretty 😎
 
I beleive final assembly is in Plano, TX as well. Pretty 😎

I did not know that. If so it would be much easier to find the numb nuts that put the red Traxxas Summit in the box for the green one. Talk about a major buzzkill. All full of excitement to open up my new toy and the damn thing was the wrong color. I should have just sent it back and made them send me back a green one.
 
Some of you just need to get over the Traxxas thing. This thread has nothing to do with Traxxas, it’s stupid to even bring it up.

What is the point of being so brand loyal about a toy? If your state didn’t have a pro team, you’d like the next states over pro team. If there wasn’t an Arrma, you’d like X. If there wasn’t a Traxxas, you’d hate Y.

They’re selling them to MAKE MONEY. Neither brand cares about saving the consumer money, they want X% is all it is.
 
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Some of you just need to get over the Traxxas thing. This thread has nothing to do with Traxxas, it’s stupid to even bring it up.

What is the point of being so brand loyal about a toy? If your state didn’t have a pro team, you’d like the next states over pro team. If there wasn’t an Arrma, you’d like X. If there wasn’t a Traxxas, you’d hate Y.

They’re selling them to MAKE MONEY. Neither brand cares about saving the consumer money, they want X% is all it is.
I wish I could like this twice. The fanboy lives strong in way too many poor souls. Hopefully some day they will see the light.
 
Might get a granite and get the Old orange body and the center diff. But my lipos wont fit anymore with the center diff is 144mm
Just for reference, my gensacearespammers 4s 5000mah fits in there (Not running 4s) and a cheapy 3s 5500mah hoovo will fit.
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You know what? I just realized, that in that picture, the center diff isn't even installed. 🤦‍♂️😂🤣
 
Sounds like an ESC drag brake. Wonder if it's in the settings or if it's hidden.

Maybe to slow after a signal loss, or?
 
I just want the red body so my OG 8SOC can match it so hopefully it’s available soon. As far as the center diff, no clue why anyone would want one in a monster truck. Every truck I’ve ever had with a center diff I ended up locking it.
 
Say someone were to buy a (red) "Outcast 4S V2.5" (is that what we're calling it?).

What upgrades should be on the short list of improvements before taking it out for abuse?

Chassis brace (bash bar). M2C? other?
Motor mounting plate?
Are metal drive shafts needed / recommended?
What can be expected by changing the springs to different rate / thickness?
Change shock fluids? Diff oil/grease?
Same question for the sway bars. Is thicker better?
Sand netting? Upgrade to fans?
What other spare parts should owners keep at the ready?

My use case will be general bashing. Some skatepark. Some jumping and flipping around the yard. Maybe some beach since we have a lot of it around here. I doubt it'll be just driving in circles on grass.
 
Say someone were to buy a (red) "Outcast 4S V2.5" (is that what we're calling it?).

What upgrades should be on the short list of improvements before taking it out for abuse?

Chassis brace (bash bar). M2C? other?
Motor mounting plate?
Are metal drive shafts needed / recommended?
What can be expected by changing the springs to different rate / thickness?
Change shock fluids? Diff oil/grease?
Same question for the sway bars. Is thicker better?
Sand netting? Upgrade to fans?
What other spare parts should owners keep at the ready?

My use case will be general bashing. Some skatepark. Some jumping and flipping around the yard. Maybe some beach since we have a lot of it around here. I doubt it'll be just driving in circles on grass.
If you can’t land properly or jump 15 feet + over and over yes you need a bash bar. Fans need upgrading if consent sand is Getting into them or you can get a net. Metal driveshafts are harder on the truck especially on the outdrives I wouldn’t recommend. The sway bars aren’t making a difference on my v2 even with the thickest sway bars it just bends. The shocks are tuned pretty good for jump under 10 feet. Lastly the only thing I break on the regular are Outdrive but I’m trigger happy on flips.
 
good to know. I'm generally of the mind that you drive it until it breaks and then replace what broke with a better replacement.

But on this potential Outcast 4S V2+ build I'd like to maybe add a few hop-up parts ahead of time.

Do we think the M2C Racing brace will fit without modification? What else will this thing need to not break? Hopefully without adding much, if any weight
 
Say someone were to buy a (red) "Outcast 4S V2.5" (is that what we're calling it?).

What upgrades should be on the short list of improvements before taking it out for abuse?

Chassis brace (bash bar). M2C? other?
Motor mounting plate?
Are metal drive shafts needed / recommended?
What can be expected by changing the springs to different rate / thickness?
Change shock fluids? Diff oil/grease?
Same question for the sway bars. Is thicker better?
Sand netting? Upgrade to fans?
What other spare parts should owners keep at the ready?

My use case will be general bashing. Some skatepark. Some jumping and flipping around the yard. Maybe some beach since we have a lot of it around here. I doubt it'll be just driving in circles on grass.
My kraton v2 has a 4mm spacer on the stock chassis brace tube to give preload on the rubber damper. Longer hinge pins(63.5mm) and 7075 t6 hinge pins and team associated balls. You can also get the m2c lower chassis brace. Imo you need nothing more than that. If you start putting all those crazy upgrades you better off getting a 6s truck. The aftermaket selling solid tower to tower braces is legit one of the worst things. The flex on a frontal i pact is transfered to the rear tower and ultimatly into the chassis. cant tell u how many people i have seen on groups how the rear of their truck exploded after a frontal crash having no clue why the rear broke and not the front. Thats how the 6s trucks bend their chassis nowadays. Solid piece tower to tower braces are just the worst for the 6s line and under. Either the chassis bends or the rod bends. Wish the aftermaket had the costumer at heart on issues like these, prefer to milk money out from people who have no idea. If the 6s line had a tower to tower brace like the 4s one but heavier duty it would have been perfect. The axles are fine even if they are a cheaper version made over the Original Steel CVD they made for the v1. Now they have the new retainer thing also. A bandaid to the issue some people have been having. But if you don't drive like a maniac they should not break.
If you can’t land properly or jump 15 feet + over and over yes you need a bash bar. Fans need upgrading if consent sand is Getting into them or you can get a net. Metal driveshafts are harder on the truck especially on the outdrives I wouldn’t recommend. The sway bars aren’t making a difference on my v2 even with the thickest sway bars it just bends. The shocks are tuned pretty good for jump under 10 feet. Lastly the only thing I break on the regular are Outdrive but I’m trigger happy on flips.
You snap the rear diff plastic outdrives?
 
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