Mojave What replacement parts that breaks the most I should stock up?

[mutosan]

its my view or belief, which does not need to count for others. There is not more to say. This does not say anything about the product itself and I have not written anything in that direction.

 

[scottyzinsd]

Mhhh what are you doing that so much brakes. I mean I do 10-20m jumps in the air and only thing what broke are front arms and those damn body mounts.
Sure bumper as well but only after a few runs. Consider to be carefull what and how much you change with alu. Might be bit stronger but it will bent and is much more expensive to replace. Not to speak of that other parts will brake. So far had no issues with diff housing and if they are worn out, I am replacing them too with alu housing.

Bearings are to replaced if they worn out. I personaly would never take fast eddi but that is everyones own decision.

If not fast eddie, get something other than stock bearings. Like i said before i am new to this. If i had replaced the bearings this may have not happened. Or your diff housing wouldnt melt.

 

[mutosan]

seams you getting something wrong. I don't have any issues. Not one Stock diff melted so far. But then again I check my cars ona regular basis. Sorry you had such issues

 

[scottyzinsd]

seams you getting something wrong. I don't have any issues. Not one Stock diff melted so far. But then again I check my cars ona regular basis. Sorry you had such issues

I'm new and I didn't check. now I will. I learned my lesson. the diff oil was either gone or very black.

 

[mutosan]

I'm new and I didn't check. now I will. I learned my lesson. the diff oil was either gone or very black.

Sadly nowadays you have to check RTRs before running them. Sorry if I sounded a bith harsch, I am usually just very direct Have not done it with my Outcast 8S and seams I have a proper one compared to others. Hope you still enjoy the hobby as I think its worth it. At the moment I need to find out why my Infraction is cogging with stock electronics and hobby wing combo.

 

[SrC]

Sadly nowadays you have to check RTRs before running them. Sorry if I sounded a bith harsch, I am usually just very direct Have not done it with my Outcast 8S and seams I have a proper one compared to others. Hope you still enjoy the hobby as I think its worth it. At the moment I need to find out why my Infraction is cogging with stock electronics and hobby wing combo.

My Lim. with stock gear, BLX185 and 2050 stocker did stutter a slight bit, but this is common with tall gearing and non sensored motors. I changed out to a 2200 KV and HW XR8 Plus sensored and there is no cogging or stuttering when driving at very slow rpms. I can drive it like a crawler very smoothly.
All my RTRs get a once over, even if it means a complete rebuild. I start with the center diff, if its low on fluid like they all are these days I rebuild it completely and also front and rears as well. It appears that when you buy an Arrma RTR that you need to also buy all your diff oils at the same time. We all been there. There is a short list of things all 6S Arrmas need out the box. Best to purchase all at the same time. BTW, Diff and shock ol is in short supply these days, plan ahead.

 

[mutosan]

My Lim. with stock gear, BLX185 and 2050 stocker did stutter a slight bit, but this is common with tall gearing and non sensored motors. I changed out to a 2200 KV and HW XR8 Plus sensored and there is no cogging or stuttering when driving at very slow rpms. I can drive it like a crawler very smoothly.
All my RTRs get a once over, even if it means a complete rebuild. I start with the center diff, if its low on fluid like they all are these days I rebuild it completely and also front and rears as well. It appears that when you buy an Arrma RTR that you need to also buy all your diff oils at the same time. We all been there. There is a short list of things all 6S Arrmas need out the box. Best to purchase all at the same time. BTW, Diff and shock ol is in short supply these days, plan ahead.

Yeah I know but mine was cogging when allready on speed. Just two days ago the ESC burned out :-( it was an XR8. For the moment going back to stock esc and motor. As soon as the replacement is here for the hobbywing motor I will drive sensored in my infraction.
Just checked my local hobbyshop and they have no shortage yet. I don't think you have to replace so much on an RTR from Arrma. As written I drive my outcast 8S with no change since I bought it and it is fine. As it gets more cold now I will do a maintenance check. Also I will check one of my Mojave which I own ince about 1 or 2 years and also is ALL stock except for the middle diff oil. But experiences are different for every one. Maybe I was just lucky.

 

[SrC]

We all drive differently, so results will vary. I noticed that using my Spektrum RX with AVC would "over Throttle control/limit" at sustained speed and appeared as cogging. I disabled AVC and all was fine. I don't know how you are using your Infr., But speed running with my Lim. (Exclusively used for speed running) that it is best to turn Punch at lowest setting if not very low. XR8+ is not best for speed running according to the hardcore speed runners. I concede. I smoked my BLX185 real fast doing speed running. I have used another XR8+/1900kv in my Tekno MT with commendable results for several years. Best to use "Sensored Hybrid mode" versus "full sensored mode" in theESC settings with the XR8+. So I figured The XR8+/2200kv would be fine in my Lim. Thus far, no complaints in my Lim. using stock gear./center spool.

about to limit power to 75, isn't similar?

No not similar. TH limting should be done within the ESC and recalibrating it when using a "real radio". A RTR TH limiter at the TX is no good. Proven over and over again. It is impossible for any TX to effectively LIMIT TH power.(volts) A TX cannot, will not, control voltage output from a battery to the motor.

 

[SrC]

seams you getting something wrong. I don't have any issues. Not one Stock diff melted so far. But then again I check my cars ona regular basis. Sorry you had such issues

I melted my center Diff on my Kraton 6s. The gears were permanently melted into the plastic composite housing. I new it was on its way out and wanted to see the end result. It will melt at over 250F degrees. Temp gun verified. This was a factory untouched center diff. Known to be low on stock100k oil out the gate. 200k-500k is the way to go at a minimum.
A Mojave needs Spare Body mounts on hand no question about it. Been on B/O for a while. The EXB version never addressed this. Its time for the Aftermarket to address this now. A custom mod can be made easily I think.