Don mercier
Active Member
I got shims for my diffs. I've got 13x16x0.15 and m13x16x1
Last edited:
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But I don't know what ones I need for the input can someone plz give me a linkI got shims for my diffs. I've got 13x16x0.15 and m13x16x1
No. The ones I'm looking for go on the input gear I think they are 7or 8mm inside diameterCredit to the following goes to @Notorious J
View attachment 42903
Is this the kind of thing you were after?
No it's a V2 6s and I wanna shimm the input gear like this... I want too push the input gear tighter too the ring gear.Which model Kraton are you talking about? I'm presuming it is the 4S? the AR709035's are discontinued and for older models like the Fazon. The others are used with the 3S and 4S lines and I'm sorry I don't have experience with the 4S however the following picture taken from the Interactive Exploded view of that vehicle on the Arrma website should give you an idea on where to put the AR709049 ones
So I need a shimm that's 19mm od with 8mm idNo it's a V2 6s and I wanna shimm the input gear like this... I want too push the input gear tighter too the ring gear.
I've got a V2 and it's got a bit of lash. I'm running PROLINE TRENCHER X so I don't want no lash or I'll be blowing diffsOK gotcha. I don't shim that one on my V3. I use the Mugen Sieki shims internally and without actually pulling my diff apart I would think these would work but don't know
What if I put the shim behind the bearing in the diff housing. I just wanna push the pinion into the ring gear so its tighterYou can't really shim that gear. You can slide it out a little further as the shaft has that flat section on it, getting that exact will be hard but if you do just locktite it to billy-o
No it is not done with these diffs. Shimming these 6s diffs has been discussed at length here and elswhere. You don't shim the input/pinion gear. You do shim the ring gear towards that input/pinion gear.What if I put the shim behind the bearing in the diff housing. I just wanna push the pinion into the ring gear so its tighter
Well I've got as many shims as I can fit in there and there is still lash in the the ring and pinion. I can move my pinion atleast 3/16 either way. And I'm running proline trencher X. And if it's not good and tight I'll be changing gests all the time. If I can get it snug but not tight I won't break gears. I've been working on cars for thirty years and got a pretty good idea what should be acceptable lash in the ring and pinion. It's a used rig and mabey its worn more than normal idk. But its loose and I cant afford to be buying all kinds of stuff. Shims seem like the easiest way to take up some of yhos slop.No it is not done with these diffs. Shimming these 6s diffs has been discussed at length here and elswhere. You don't shim the input/pinion gear. You do shim the ring gear towards that input/pinion gear.
You seem very insistent on doing the opposite. You seem confused about shimming.
Ringt now I have three shims on the gear side that are 13x.15and it was hard too push it in. I hot a new ring and pinion on my old cupWell I've got as many shims as I can fit in there and there is still lash in the the ring and pinion. I can move my pinion atleast 3/16 either way. And I'm running proline trencher X. And if it's not good and tight I'll be changing gests all the time. If I can get it snug but not tight I won't break gears. I've been working on cars for thirty years and got a pretty good idea what should be acceptable lash in the ring and pinion. It's a used rig and mabey its worn more than normal idk. But its loose and I cant afford to be buying all kinds of stuff. Shims seem like the easiest way to take up some of yhos slop.
Ok I understand that most people don't shi. The input gear too the crown gear. But I also hear people say that if they run bigger tires it wrecked the crown and pinion gear. When I hold both output cups and turn the input left to right what would you say would be an acceptable lash back and forth. I just feel that theres too much play and it would jump a tooth under pwrI would need to be on my bench to verify and not on the train, but it might work but it might need to be behind the internal bearing, the one inside the diff case opposed to the larger one on the cup side of the diff. It still isn't something I'd be keen to do. What problems is the current setup causing you?
Ok I put brand new gpm crown and pinion. And I've got three .15 shims in there now. It just seems like theres too much playSounds like you are trying to save something that's done. Maybe you should check this out.
https://jennysrc.com/collections/ar...fferential-diff-50t-spur-gear-typhon-ar106021
Or this.
https://jennysrc.com/collections/ar...rrma-outcast-6s-2018-diff?variant=33108991878
Parts wear and you can only shim up to a point. Gears wear out. It doesn't matter what Tires you are going to use.
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