Typhon What you need to do on every 3s Arrma! Seal threaded holes on brushless motor.

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RC-Dude

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Not sure if someone has posted something similar.

I ruined a new Arrma Typhons 3s brushless motor within two or three batteries because fine dust came right into the motor blocking the coil and bearings.
So you need to put some glue (soft so it can be removed when you change pinion), rubber etc on the open holes of the brushless motor. Depending on the pinion you use the holes are sometimes more open, sometimes more closed. Those threaded holes need to be sealed. The openings are smaller with the stock pinion.

Here some pictures:

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Thanks for the heads-up, guys! I was setting my mesh but after reading this I made sure to check those two threaded holes, too, while I was at it.

There was indeed some fine dust that had collected inside the power module, some of it around those two exposed holes. So I cleaned it up and stuck a piece of Gorilla tape on there (thanks for the tip, Sandracer!)
 
And the other big thing I did was drill a hole under the spur gear in the chassis and widen it. (See last picture). Just like the 6s series. So little stones and dust can actually fall out instead of being turned to fine dust by the pinion and spur gear. Did that after a spur gear was ruined from the dirt staying inside. Still using plastic gears on all 3s Arrma cars. Bought a few spare plastic spur gears after that and have not used any of them.

Just make sure the Gorilla tape is secure. And check now and then. If some tape gets between spur and pinion the motor might overheat and get damaged if the esc does not shut down before.
 
So I cleaned it up and stuck a piece of Gorilla tape on there (thanks for the tip, Sandracer!)
No problem, that's what this forum is for;)

And the other big thing I did was drill a hole under the spur gear in the chassis and widen it. (See last picture). Just like the 6s series. So little stones and dust can actually fall out instead of being turned to fine dust by the pinion and spur gear.
I actually covered the spur gear opening and all unused (screw) holes in the chassis with epoxy. Also used gorilla tape to closed the gap between the front mud guards on the DR8 as much as possible. I haven't done that (yet) on the Kraton since the Kraton body has no opening in the front.
I only run on (fine) sand/forest; both the Kraton en DR8 never been cleaner inside!(y) No more need for a Dusty motor.

Just make sure the Gorilla tape is secure. And check now and then. If some tape gets between spur and pinion the motor might overheat and get damaged if the esc does not shut down before.
I clean the motor top plate with alcohol first, after that the gorilla tape sticks very well. It is also held in place by the motor mount; all it takes is a small opening for the motor shaft, so that is also better covered and letting less fine snad coming in the motor shaft opening.
See my build thread how it looks. Never had any problems with it.(y)
 
I guess a set screw would be to long, risk damaging the motor windings or such? Otherwise that would be very easy to plug the holes as well.
 
I tried gorilla tape initially but it’s thick and I noticed it very slightly micro-gapped the motor/mount interface. So I switched and use yellow electrical tape and an old school hole punch to cut a perfect small round piece to cover each hole on all my 3s cars for several months now. Works great.

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Great ideas guys.

Thank you all for the heads up and solutions. I'll be doing that to my motors from now on.
👍
 
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