What's the part number for GP4 spiral cut input gear shim?

[parcou]

For the Kraton 6S EXB, there is a shim on the diff GP4 spiral cut input gear. It is not on the exploded diagram. It is on each of my diffs input gear. Does anyone know the part number for this shim or washer?

 

[LicketySplit]

I have the Outcast 6s EXB. Here’s what I found. Oddly though when I looked up the K6s EXB I didn’t see it. I thought they were pretty much the same besides the obvious length difference. I know I buy Kraton parts from M2C and they work just fine.

 

[PeighDay]

I have the Outcast 6s EXB. Here’s what I found. Oddly though when I looked up the K6s EXB I didn’t see it. I thought they were pretty much the same besides the obvious length difference. I know I buy Kraton parts from M2C and they work just fine. View attachment 267196

I was just about to post this. I know the Talion and Outcast both have this washer / spacer but like you stated the Kraton does not.

 

[parcou]

I have the Outcast 6s EXB. Here’s what I found. Oddly though when I looked up the K6s EXB I didn’t see it. I thought they were pretty much the same besides the obvious length difference. I know I buy Kraton parts from M2C and they work just fine. View attachment 267196

Thanks...that should work. I did not think to look at another rig.

@PeighDay It should work since the GP4 input gear he posted is the same part number for the Kraton EXB as well but lacks showing the shim. Mine does have the shim.

I feel this is the right shim because AJJAM YT'er did say it was an 8mm shim

 

[SrC]

I don't have a GP4 or EXB diff. But I never seen Arrma supply/install Input diff gear Shims on any of their 6s rigs out the box. Maybe Arrma does Not offer them as a part # for the EXB diffs or the RTR diffs.. Since you got this used, it is very possible that someone else sourced shims for that Input gear. Some people do use shims on the input gear. But they are after market sourced if I am correct.
I only shim the the Main gear.

 

[PeighDay]

Thanks...that should work. I did not think to look at another rig.

@PeighDay It should work since the GP4 input gear he posted is the same part number for the Kraton EXB as well but lacks showing the shim. Mine does have the shim.

I feel this is the right shim because AJJAM YT'er did say it was an 8mm shim

Agreed. Just found it interesting the Kraton exploded diagram does not show it listed even though they are all EXB 6s Arrma rigs.

 

[parcou]

I don't have a GP4 or EXB diff. But I never seen Arrma supply/install Input diff gear Shims on any of their 6s rigs out the box. Maybe Arrma does Not offer them as a part # for the EXB diffs or the RTR diffs.. Since you got this used, it is very possible that someone else sourced shims for that Input gear. Some people do use shims on the input gear. But they are after market sourced if I am correct.
I only shim the the Main gear.

Hey my Man...

The Kraton EXB I bought new directly Amain Hobbies in Oct 2021 for $469. It came with the shim on it stock... weird I know.

The Talion RTR EXB I bought here used at the end of 2022 has the same gearing and LSD parts. When I serviced the diffs and the rig, both the front/rear diff had the shim on the input gear as well. The kid that owned that one just bashed it and run it in water and all kinds of stuff...by the looks of it, when I opened it does not look like he changed a thing. Again, that one was used. Weird as well.

Again...does not seem like HH but they are so up/down

Agreed. Just found it interesting the Kraton exploded diagram does not show it listed even though they are all EXB 6s Arrma rigs.

IKR...clearly installed on as stock. Glad you shared that info. Mine were good but if I never need to replace or add another shim for better mesh I like to have those on hand to be prepared and not stop progress or service

 

[Fireteam-User]

This shim is there, however it is quite thick.
So thinck that getting the pinion shimmed correctly almost never works,as 1 leaves to much room between the end of the pinion and the case (so teeth contact is not optimal) and 2 will make the input pinion mar the diff housing.
I have a pack of thinner shims as well for that purpose, however the size I fdo not know off hand.
That way you use this thick Arrma shim to take up the slack, and then add 1 or 2 of the thin ones to put the pinion as close to the diff body as possible.

 

[Dan B.]

This shim is there, however it is quite thick.
So thinck that getting the pinion shimmed correctly almost never works,as 1 leaves to much room between the end of the pinion and the case (so teeth contact is not optimal) and 2 will make the input pinion mar the diff housing.
I have a pack of thinner shims as well for that purpose, however the size I fdo not know off hand.
That way you use this thick Arrma shim to take up the slack, and then add 1 or 2 of the thin ones to put the pinion as close to the diff body as possible.

There’s a bit of inconsistency in the manufacturing process and I would recommend checking out your individual diffs for proper shimming. If you get a brand new rig and check your diffs before ever even being run you often find that even the front and rear diffs on the same rig require different shims to be properly set up. Every one should be checked individually. Some take thick shims (especially on the input/pinion gear) and some don’t. I’ve also found that the internal planetary gears usually seem to be set up pretty well, but that the output shafts almost always (in my experience) need to be shimmed due to quite a bit of in/out slop in the drive cups.
This also gives the opportunity to check fluid levels and /or change them to your preference. It’s pretty common for new diffs to have very little fluid in them.

 

[Diem Turner]

There’s a bit of inconsistency in the manufacturing process and I would recommend checking out your individual diffs for proper shimming. If you get a brand new rig and check your diffs before ever even being run you often find that even the front and rear diffs on the same rig require different shims to be properly set up. Every one should be checked individually. Some take thick shims (especially on the input/pinion gear) and some don’t. I’ve also found that the internal planetary gears usually seem to be set up pretty well, but that the output shafts almost always (in my experience) need to be shimmed due to quite a bit of in/out slop in the drive cups.
This also gives the opportunity to check fluid levels and /or change them to your preference. It’s pretty common for new diffs to have very little fluid in them.

I just recently discovered that a bulk bearing supplier (when I say bulk supplier, I mean that all they sell is bearings of all different sorts and you can buy anywhere from a single bearing to thousands of them and get bulk discounts depending on how many you purchase) that I use occasionally also sells shims under accessories. They sell them in 0.1, 0.2, 0.3 & 0.5mm thicknesses and for ten of them they cost less than half of what I'd pay for them at a local or online hobby shop. If you have a place like this where you buy bearings, look around and see if they sell shims also. I'd almost be surprised if they didn't.

 

[Dan B.]

I just recently discovered that a bulk bearing supplier (when I say bulk supplier, I mean that all they sell is bearings of all different sorts and you can buy anywhere from a single bearing to thousands of them and get bulk discounts depending on how many you purchase) that I use occasionally also sells shims under accessories. They sell them in 0.1, 0.2, 0.3 & 0.5mm thicknesses and for ten of them they cost less than half of what I'd pay for them at a local or online hobby shop. If you have a place like this where you buy bearings, look around and see if they sell shims also. I'd almost be surprised if they didn't.

I’m curious if (since you’re in Germany) you’re referring to FAG bearings? They were our go-to bearing supplier when I was in the 1:1 Porsche game. All the best engine builders seem to use them almost exclusively. I got them for driveline and chassis applications mostly.
For our Arrma shims, I use the Mugen Seiki E0206 packs for the regular diffs and the Arrma ARA311094 packs for the EXB diffs.
I looked but can’t find the part number for the shims I use in the input bearings/pinions. I’ll keep looking…
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BMPK2U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08SWMXX5K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I actually ordered both sets of these earlier today for some winter maintenance procedures, so the links are fresh!

 

[Diem Turner]

I’m curious if (since you’re in Germany) you’re referring to FAG bearings? They were our go-to bearing supplier when I was in the 1:1 Porsche game. All the best engine builders seem to use them almost exclusively. I got them for driveline and chassis applications mostly.
For our Arrma shims, I use the Mugen Seiki E0206 packs for the regular diffs and the Arrma ARA311094 packs for the EXB diffs.
I looked but can’t find the part number for the shims I use in the input bearings/pinions. I’ll keep looking…
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BMPK2U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08SWMXX5K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I actually ordered both sets of these earlier today for some winter maintenance procedures, so the links are fresh!

ARA709064 are the 8x12x0.2mm shims for behind the input pinion. Not sure if they make other thicknesses as well, but that should get you pointed in the right direction in either case.

Nah, these aren't FAG bearings. The website is called kugelkager.exoress,de, They're a distributor, not a manufacturer. They sell a wide variety of different quality grades (for example: your standard 8x16x5mm bearing comes in flavors ranging from 1,09€ for a bottom of the barrel bearing all the way up to 25,87€ for a one made entirely of ceramic both races and rollers) and all the different varieties of bearings (i.e. ball, roller, needle, tapered, axial, etc.). The quality they offer is plenty good enough for my RC needs. The prices are reasonable for what you get.

 

[Garcbomber]

https://www.amazon.com/TRB-RC-M8x10mm-Steel-0-5mm/dp/B091YKN3D6

Works for your wheel nut/stub end play as well. Stack up tolerances in these mass production rigs require a vast amount of thicknesses.

 

[Dan B.]

https://www.amazon.com/TRB-RC-M8x10mm-Steel-0-5mm/dp/B091YKN3D6

Works for your wheel nut/stub end play as well. Stack up tolerances in these mass production rigs require a vast amount of thicknesses.

Thanks for that, I’ll order some up and these come in different thicknesses. Groovy!

ARA709064 are the 8x12x0.2mm shims for behind the input pinion. Not sure if they make other thicknesses as well, but that should get you pointed in the right direction in either case.

Nah, these aren't FAG bearings. The website is called kugelkager.exoress,de, They're a distributor, not a manufacturer. They sell a wide variety of different quality grades (for example: your standard 8x16x5mm bearing comes in flavors ranging from 1,09€ for a bottom of the barrel bearing all the way up to 25,87€ for a one made entirely of ceramic both races and rollers) and all the different varieties of bearings (i.e. ball, roller, needle, tapered, axial, etc.). The quality they offer is plenty good enough for my RC needs. The prices are reasonable for what you get.

Thanks for the part number, I couldn’t find it anywhere. I emptied a couple packs of shims into a plastic divider and apparently threw away the packaging before I recorded the part number.
In regard to the bearing supplier you use, I’m envious. I haven’t found any source that stocks that range of bearings here in the states. Most seem to specialize in just a couple flavors, even the big guys like Jim’s.

 

[Diem Turner]

In regard to the bearing supplier you use, I’m envious. I haven’t found any source that stocks that range of bearings here in the states. Most seem to specialize in just a couple flavors, even the big guys like Jim’s.

Seriously? I have a difficult time imagining that there exists any consumable good where Germany has a supply side that outpaces what the US can do. In the 45 years I've spent commuting between the two, this would be the very first time. I'm not saying that this isn't the case but, my gut feeling is that you just haven't found the bearing emporium yet.

Edit: Here ya go
https://onlinebearingstore.com/ball-bearings/
https://bearingsdirect.com/

 

[parcou]

https://www.amazon.com/TRB-RC-M8x10mm-Steel-0-5mm/dp/B091YKN3D6

Works for your wheel nut/stub end play as well. Stack up tolerances in these mass production rigs require a vast amount of thicknesses.

Those are great use them the time to take the slop of the wheel hex. Must have if any feels shimming is important