Typhon Would thicker diff fluid help reduce spinouts?

sumguy99

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I've had my Typhon 6s for almost 3 months now and I still can't seem to avoid frequent spinouts. I've seen so many people saying how amazing the Typhon 6s handles, but mine has been a disappointment compared to my 3s Typhon. Diffs currently have 30k/100k/20k and I've got an 18t pinion and stock electronics. I've got about 1-2 degrees of toe in rear/toe out front and camber is as close as I can get it to -1 degree.

I have less issues in grass, a lot more issues in rocks/dirt. To be accurate, when I say rocks/dirt I mean its mostly rocks with a little dirt, I've added a picture for reference if that helps with suggestions, its nothing like a dirt track. I have this issue even when running 4s and going way easy on the throttle. It doesn't do it constantly and once I get a little speed built up I can go full throttle and its okay. But any turning or hitting more than half throttle from a stop or low speed and theres a good chance its going to do a 360 spin.

I bought some Badlands for it and I could barely tell a difference from the stock Katar tires. Went out today with some JConcepts Magma tires and they were a big improvement over the Katars and Badlands. I was confident enough to run 6s for the first time in a while and hit full throttle a good bit, but turning around was still like being on ice unless I slow way down through and accelerating out of turns

Thinking of going with some thicker diff fluid hoping it might help tame the spinouts. Currently running 30k/100k/20k and was thinking of going up to 60k/200k/30k. Would that help with the spinouts or not really?

20220509_140647.jpg
 

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Yes, thicker diff fluid can help tame excessive spinning. But I only have a 3s rig, so I can't recommend specific weights.
 
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I've had my Typhon 6s for almost 3 months now and I still can't seem to avoid frequent spinouts. I've seen so many people saying how amazing the Typhon 6s handles, but mine has been a disappointment compared to my 3s Typhon. Diffs currently have 30k/100k/20k and I've got an 18t pinion and stock electronics. I've got about 1-2 degrees of toe in rear/toe out front and camber is as close as I can get it to -1 degree.

I have less issues in grass, a lot more issues in rocks/dirt. To be accurate, when I say rocks/dirt I mean its mostly rocks with a little dirt, I've added a picture for reference if that helps with suggestions, its nothing like a dirt track. I have this issue even when running 4s and going way easy on the throttle. It doesn't do it constantly and once I get a little speed built up I can go full throttle and its okay. But any turning or hitting more than half throttle from a stop or low speed and theres a good chance its going to do a 360 spin.

I bought some Badlands for it and I could barely tell a difference from the stock Katar tires. Went out today with some JConcepts Magma tires and they were a big improvement over the Katars and Badlands. I was confident enough to run 6s for the first time in a while and hit full throttle a good bit, but turning around was still like being on ice unless I slow way down through and accelerating out of turns

Thinking of going with some thicker diff fluid hoping it might help tame the spinouts. Currently running 30k/100k/20k and was thinking of going up to 60k/200k/30k. Would that help with the spinouts or not really?

View attachment 216637

I do not have the Typhon but the TLR so the TLR is setup different. For my other 6S rigs, I have it set up as 60/500/30k.

Now I do not have the v5 so cannot say but the point of the center being thicker does help that power bleed and slow the front tires down some so you can get more control and not the spin-out among other things.

Someone who has one knowing more than me will chime in.

More people here seem to frown on AVC but this also helps a lot to keep it lined up and head straight but that's a personal call. I how it works on my rigs.

Good luck!
 

sumguy99

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Looks like going up should help, just wondering if going from 30k/100k/20k up to 60k/200k/30k is enough? I think the 60k front/30k rear is okay, but this is my first rig with a center diff so I don't know if 200k center is going high enough or if I'll need to go to the 300k-500k range.
 

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I’m not sure how going up helps…thicker center send MORE power to the rear and thicker rear causes more of an oversteer effect, thus spinning out. I would think he would want to go down in rear and center and maybe up in the front. Also with th size of the rocks, I wonder if it’s bottoming out and kicking the rear end around.
 

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I run 20 mill in all mine,mostly cause it won't leak out like thinner causeing pricy repairs,an it grips an ripps...also it'll keep those badlands from coming apart.at least go heavy in center diff or you'll blow some front tires.front goes in the air an they'll spin much faster than rears...sentons an typhons are tire destroyers on 6s
 
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im tackling the same problem on my C8. From what i understand its a front suspension problem. The front has more grip than the rear. You can reduce the grip of the front suspension with thicker shock oil or/and stiffer springs, you can play with th droop so more droop gives more grip in the rear under acceleration. You could also make the rear have more grip. Softer rear shock fluid and springs will give you that but it depends. I went from 2k to 3k on my front shocks. I learned a ton of stuff abour suspension tuning i went from offroad to onroad and its kinda of a mindblowing difference. Every little You do matters On how the car will behave.

I crashed the first time i drove my C8 with 1k spun out of control in a street turn. 2k it was a lot more controlable and nimble but with grps xm7 It just spins on itself at the slighter touch of he handbrake. It was the case with my hoons silvers sometimes but i was able to correct it. Now it drifts on my bald hoons better it feels more natural and smoother. The car just slides. Sliding with no steering input after the drift started. Just like how the infraction drifted on the arrma promo videos.

You can fellow my thread on the journey of tuning my felony. You might find some useful info.
 
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I don't think changing diff fluids will help you.
18t is quite a large pinion, just too much power, go down to 16t, it will help a lot.
Also lower your punch setting or add some expo on your transmitter (if possible).
Or add a gyro which helps controlling the car, like AVC.
 
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Basically what @419RC said. Thicker center and rear would most likely make it oversteer more than it already does. You could try getting a steering gyro maybe turn down the punch a little bit so the power doesn't hit so hard right off the start,
It was one thing i was going to try to fight my front tire wear, wanting more punch while drifting and reduce. More control in general but i learned it will just make the handling worse
I don't think changing diff fluids will help you.
18t is quite a large pinion, go down to 16t, it will help a lot.
Also lower your punch setting or add some expo on your transmitter.
Or add a gyro wich helps controlling the car, like AVC.
A thicker front Diff might help. Other than that i don't think messing with the other diffs will help the situation. Maybe going to 5k in the rear but that is way too low for a typhon.
Edit: his front diff is already at 30k and his rears are at 20k. From what i learned the thicker the rear the more the rear will break loose(fishtail) in this case going back to 10k in the rear would be one thing to try.
 

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If the car is spinning out (losing traction and failing to keep a line under acceleration or oversteering through on-power turns) then like others have noted thicker centre and rear oil will make the problem worse. You're already up 3-10x the stock oils and that probably has much to do with it.
 

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Looks like going up should help, just wondering if going from 30k/100k/20k up to 60k/200k/30k is enough? I think the 60k front/30k rear is okay, but this is my first rig with a center diff so I don't know if 200k center is going high enough or if I'll need to go to the 300k-500k range.

My Man I know a lot of info above to digest and follow...we all have been there to find the right combo.

Let me add this and I totally forgot. My best friend has the Typhon v5 with stock diff, etc. I have the TLR I bash with him with. I still think the v5 diffs let out too much and less control on 6S and he complained about spinning out or lack of control with all that power.

I had a spare DX3 and SR6100 AVC receiver. We put it in and found the right tune on the AVC knob. Still stock he loves his v5 more now with the AVC he still drives like a fool but he has control and no spin out. It was night and day for him to keep it stock and add only AVC to control the spinouts. He's happy

Just food for thought :)
 

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This is interesting to me as both the wifey and I drag race our typhons against each other. We don't have problems with spinouts at all and we both have 500k in the center and stock front/rear. I use the gyro on my radiolink but she hates the gyro and turns it off. We both don't have much of a problem going straight.

Imo whatever is going on it's not because of the diff oil weight. Maybe you broke a diff somehow?

Video @ relevant time already. You can see there that we are mashing on the throttle pretty hard but not 100% right from the start.
 
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On sand, dirt, rock conditions some wheels have more grip than others leading to a ‘challenging’ ride😉. With thicker oils in all diffs you create more evenly power distribution to all wheels and accentuate this handling even more. Going lighter allows to diff out more making it easier to keep it straight.
I went thicker in my desert buggy from stock 5/7/5k to 30/100/20 to try it since everybody here goes ‘thick’, but quickly went back to 30/30/20.
Not sure how ‘loose’ your conditions are, but try lighter oils.
 

parcou

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This is interesting to me as both the wifey and I drag race our typhons against each other. We don't have problems with spinouts at all and we both have 500k in the center and stock front/rear. I use the gyro on my radiolink but she hates the gyro and turns it off. We both don't have much of a problem going straight.

Imo whatever is going on it's not because of the diff oil weight. Maybe you broke a diff somehow?

Video @ relevant time already. You can see there that we are mashing on the throttle pretty hard but not 100% right from the start.
Nice seeing couples having RC fun!
On sand, dirt, rock conditions some wheels have more grip than others leading to a ‘challenging’ ride😉. With thicker oils in all diffs you create more evenly power distribution to all wheels and accentuate this handling even more. Going lighter allows to diff out more making it easier to keep it straight.
I went thicker in my desert buggy from stock 5/7/5k to 30/100/20 to try it since everybody here goes ‘thick’, but quickly went back to 30/30/20.
Not sure how ‘loose’ your conditions are, but try lighter oils.
I hear ya Man...

My first post was a reference for a 6S rig like a Kraton or Infraction with the heavier center and even the Infraction is only 200 center not 500 like the Kraton.

My Typhon TLR is 20/20/10k just a little heavier than stock but did a lot of research on those numbers and questions. At 4S only 19T high punch, she shots straight like a rocket love that diff setup to balance the power. Cannot say for a v5 at 6S.

Just curious here on your Typhon is it a 6S at 30/30/20? Or 4S?
 
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sumguy99

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Ok, going up may not help, thanks for the input. Should have mentioned this was also happening even worse when new with stock 16t pinion & stock diff fluids. Going up from stock diff fluids it actually handled a little better. Problem is I adjusted toe & camber & diff fluids all at once. Maybe the toe/camber made the improvements I noticed & the thicker diff fluid didn't help like I thought? Just thought higher might help since I don't have this issue at all on my 3s Typhon & it has no center diff.

Rig just feels nervous, twitchy, & unpredictable. I baby the throttle & steering but a lot of spinouts are happening at very low throttle (under 25%) even on 4s. Thought tires & more time getting used to it would help & it has, but still feels like its more work than fun trying to drive it. I've spent hours each week watching yt vids, reading previous posts here & adjusting, but still doing something wrong, nothing unusual for me.:ROFLMAO:
Not being good enough at tuning my rig to enjoy it fully is rather frustrating.

From what I've gathered here, I can try the following, one adjustment at a time (not sure which order, but one at a time regardless):

Lower diff fluid: rear from 20k to 10k first, so I would be at 30k/100k/10k, consider dropping the center to 50k if that doesn't improve things much

Droop setting: try more droop in the rear (this lowers ground clearance right? might be an issue)

Adjust shocks: reduce preload on rear first, possibly change shock oil also, I have noticed the back has bounce at times

Look into gyro/avc: totally new to me so I will need to learn a bit

Convert/get a different rig: maybe I'm hung up on the buggy look too much and just have the wrong rig for the terrain. More ground clearance and bigger tires would likely prevent the rig from getting bumped around by the rocks so much. Maybe I'm better off with truggified setup or selling it to get a Kraton/Talion with more ground clearance and larger tires?
 
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I’d try lighter diffs oils first.
As for gyro/AVC try the DumboRC transmitter with X6FG receiver (G is for gyro). It’s cheap, has great range and the gyro is easy to adjust with a turn button on the transmitter between 0-100%.
If you still don’t like the handling, you want a Mojave (you want it anyway)😉
 
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