Limitless Yet another GT build

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Nice build.
I like the servo layout. I will be doing the same on my VTE2 once I swap to the dual motor setup.
I was trying KT's idea where he was mounting it on the front of the car with the linkage through the suspension. Just won't work.
So parts wise this is just some 90 degree mounts from hot racing, and the linkage is the GPM UDR horn and tie rod. You want the GPM one, the hot racing tie rod has rubber in it and had a ton of slop.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FDBY275?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
 
I was trying KT's idea where he was mounting it on the front of the car with the linkage through the suspension. Just won't work.
So parts wise this is just some 90 degree mounts from hot racing, and the linkage is the GPM UDR horn and tie rod. You want the GPM one, the hot racing tie rod has rubber in it and had a ton of slop.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FDBY275?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
I had first seen this idea on a guy named Warren's car (Hobao VTE2) over in Europe.
He used a small carbon fiber plate to extend the servo off the center brace further. This allows it to square up linkage a little better. I plan to go this route.

1678382166499.png
 
I had first seen this idea on a guy named Warren's car (Hobao VTE2) over in Europe.
He used a small carbon fiber plate to extend the servo off the center brace further. This allows it to square up linkage a little better. I plan to go this route.

View attachment 284111
Holy living f***, Batman!!! That final layout took a lot of thought and probably a ton of trial and error. That’s one of the most densely packed and well packaged rigs I’ve ever seen. There’s hardly a single freaking mm of wasted space here. Respect!
If he was an SWB guy he’d be in a rubber room right now.
 
Holy living f***, Batman!!! That final layout took a lot of thought and probably a ton of trial and error. That’s one of the most densely packed and well packaged rigs I’ve ever seen. There’s hardly a single freaking mm of wasted space here. Respect!
If he was an SWB guy he’d be in a rubber room right now.
Yeah, I was impressed with the setup too!
These guys in Europe are planning to go big this year at ROSSA. It will be interesting!
 
Yeah, I was impressed with the setup too!
These guys in Europe are planning to go big this year at ROSSA. It will be interesting!
Also interesting that he’s running front struts and rear shocks. I would have taken the opposite route.
 
That's pretty cool. I thought i had mine packed pretty full. Is the Hobao a smaller car? Maybe its the angle, but it looks like that car has a lot less battery in it. I may have to step down to 6200's, these fit, but unless I get that bellcrank re-made I don't have enough room for battery tie downs.
I'd never seen that serve mounting done before, but I figured it was obvious enough someone else had to have done it.
I see what you mean about squaring up the linkage. I have a different servo horn that pushes the linkage out further, but it didn't look far enough off to be any kind of issue. But I also don't know what I don't know.
I like that build, though. Do have a link to his material?

I had first seen this idea on a guy named Warren's car (Hobao VTE2) over in Europe.
He used a small carbon fiber plate to extend the servo off the center brace further. This allows it to square up linkage a little better. I plan to go this route.
 
Been a while so I thought I'd drop a build update.
Everything is in the car at this point. The only things not pictured are the gyro and perfect pass.
I opted to mount my servo on the top deck to free up some room. I need to have my bellcrank modified to sit up a little higher for battery clearance. When that's done these 9500's should fit nicely. Can't really see it in the pictures, but I have lights mounted. Pretty clean install on the rear - its a variable pattern LED bar controlled by the radio.
Time for final wiring, power up, programming, and bench testing.
Nice clean install of the signal booster on the radio. All wiring is internal with minimal modifications to the radio body so it can be undone. Power wire goes through the handle to a step down converter in the base. Runs on one battery. Not sure if I've seen anyone do a 10px this clean.

Anxious to see how this center driveline performs. My spur gear selection is limited. 40 is as small as I can go on the diff side. If this doesn't work, it'll end up being a dual 2028 car.
Now just a lot of crimping to do to shorten up some servo leads. Get bullets soldered on the ESC's and it can power up.

View attachment 284101

That receiver is pretty close to the motor and those cables. Would not put it that close. That could affect range. Make sure to test it. In an rc aeroplane I would not dare fly with the receiver so close to cables. 2,4 GHz is pretty insensible towards electrosmog but I think it's worth mentioning especially when it comes to a few hundred Amps.

Otherwise obviously very nice.
 
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That receiver is pretty close to the motor and those cables. Would not put it that close. That could affect range. Make sure to test it. In an rc aeroplane I would not dare fly with the receiver so close to cables. 2,4 GHz is pretty insensible towards electrosmog but I think it's worth mentioning especially when it comes to a few hundred Amps.

Otherwise obviously very nice.
I was a little concerned with it, too. I've seen other builds by people with more experience putting it in a similar location.
I'm hoping that works, I don't have many other options on this one where it isn't really close to a motor. I'll definitely be range testing it under light load before letting it off the leash. I fly as well.
 
That's pretty cool. I thought i had mine packed pretty full. Is the Hobao a smaller car? Maybe its the angle, but it looks like that car has a lot less battery in it. I may have to step down to 6200's, these fit, but unless I get that bellcrank re-made I don't have enough room for battery tie downs.
I'd never seen that serve mounting done before, but I figured it was obvious enough someone else had to have done it.
I see what you mean about squaring up the linkage. I have a different servo horn that pushes the linkage out further, but it didn't look far enough off to be any kind of issue. But I also don't know what I don't know.
I like that build, though. Do have a link to his material?

He does not have any build info online. Just this picture he shared.
I'm not 100% sure what size Lipos those are but I want to say they are the Onyx Power Systems 8,000 mAh McCoy packs.

That receiver is pretty close to the motor and those cables. Would not put it that close. That could affect range. Make sure to test it. In an rc aeroplane I would not dare fly with the receiver so close to cables. 2,4 GHz is pretty insensible towards electrosmog but I think it's worth mentioning especially when it comes to a few hundred Amps.

Otherwise obviously very nice.
Comment below
I was a little concerned with it, too. I've seen other builds by people with more experience putting it in a similar location.
I'm hoping that works, I don't have many other options on this one where it isn't really close to a motor. I'll definitely be range testing it under light load before letting it off the leash. I fly as well.

This my setup. I am running 146mph so far without a signal booster and no interference issues with the high amperage (500-670 amps)

1678464736494.png
 
Final build update - I think the car is finally 'done'. Its funny - I started with a Limitless V2 roller, and the only parts of that roller that ended up staying in this build were the shock housings, standoffs, A arm hinge pins, rear diffuse, pillar balls, some differential parts and some misc screws.

Its done a few road tests, everything seems to be happy on it so far. Pulled 94mph on the road in front of my house - ran out of road. So next week I'll take it out and do a full pass on 4s. Everything looks pretty much as it did in the last round of photos, except its all wired up. I ended up shaving the steering arm down to allow battery clearance.

I'll post an update after the 4s pass. Hoping to see a little over 125 out of it with the current gearing. Then its 8s time.

So here is the final build list:

Scorched:
GT Full Length Carbon Chassis
Carbon front splitter for C100 body
Carbon Top Deck
116mm Trident Driveshafts - front and rear
Titanium Front Axle CVD Shafts - front and rear - rear converted to CVD (ARAC3980, ARA311035, ARAC3990)
Aluminum Bell Crank Arms
Side body posts
Adjustable Rear Hinge Pin Holders

GPM:
Rear Upper Tie Rods
Front Steering Tie Rods
Front Lower A Arms
Front Upper A Arms
Rear Lower A Arms
Front Lower Suspension Mount
Aluminum Differential Case - front and rear
Hardened Steel differential gear set - center
Rear Body Post Fixed Mount
UDR Servo Horn with SST Adjustable Tie Rod

Hot Racing:
Aluminum HD Diff case and gearbox cover - front and rear
Aluminum Diffuse Supports
Aluminum Lower Diffuse Wing Mount
Aluminum Wing Cross Brace
Aluminum Upper front Suspension Mount
Aluminum Front Steering Blocks
Aluminum Rear Hubs (I don't like these rear hubs. Bearings are very hard to get out, and I have some fitment issues on one side that required some grinding. GPM ones aren't great either. May switch them out for Scorched)
90 Degree servo mounts

Perfect Pass:
Batwing V2
Monster Servo
Launch Control
QS8 Connectors
Springs
Aluminum Body Mounts
Carbon Shock Towers
Carbon Ackerman Plate
Carbon Steering Top Plate

PPS:
Grublock Motor Mount - front and rear
Switch Mount for XLX2

Castle:
1721 2400kv - front and rear
XLX2 - front and rear

Avid:
Revolution | Aura - 8x16x5 - full set plus spares
Metal - 8x19x6 - full set plus spares
Revolution | Aura - 5x13x4 - full plus spares
Revolution - 15x24x5 - full plus spares
Revolution | Aura - 6x10x3 - full plus spares

Saga Gears

Delta Plastics Ford C100 body

Futaba:
10px w Life flat pack
R2006GS Rx
GYC 441 Gyro

China Hobbyline - 4s 9500mah X4

Misc:
SkyRC SK-500023
Arma Metal Diff Case - for center diff
40t HD steel spur gear - ebay (for center diff)
V2 rear spool outdrive - ARA311069 (Went through a few of these getting the custom center diff perfect)
DC to DC step up transformer (for signal booster)
Injora 22 LED light bar Multi Mode (Rear Light)
ShareGoo 16LED light bar (front light)
Hardened Undersized High-Speed M2 Tool Steel Rod, 2.25 mm Diameter, 2-1/4" Long - McMaster-Carr (for drive cup pins)
Red M4 Countersunk Washers
Aluminum Spacer 5/16 OD x .172 ID x 11/32 - Aluminumspacers.com
4W WiFi Booster 2.4GHz wireless router signal amplifier - ebay (signal booster for Tx)
Carbon Fiber Carrying Handle for Futaba 10px - Ebay
SMA Male to uFL coax adapter - 12 inches - ebay
SkyRC GNSS GPS Mount - ebay
Dual Lock
 
I was trying KT's idea where he was mounting it on the front of the car with the linkage through the suspension. Just won't work.
So parts wise this is just some 90 degree mounts from hot racing, and the linkage is the GPM UDR horn and tie rod. You want the GPM one, the hot racing tie rod has rubber in it and had a ton of slop.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FDBY275?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
I recently did a complete overhaul and reconfig of my Infraction and to facilitate the 4x4S abreast battery arrangement like in the Hobao below, the servo had to go and I went the KT route. It didn't take long before I realized that to accomplish this with a standard sized servo would require the full length GT chassis from Scorched as the stock front section of the Infraction is too thick which causes the servo to sit too high, making it impossible to connect the link to the servo. I didn't have $300 for the chassis (they were sold out at the time even if I had wanted one) so I did what I do in situations like this: what do I have and can something be made to do what I need it to do?

Long story short, I developed a flat bottom conversion kit for those of us who have the standard GT chassis. This is my working prototype. A final CF version will be made before too long but for the time being...I actually really like the way this looks.
1680628132982.jpeg
1680628142578.jpeg


On a slightly different not, your build looks freakin' amazing. I'm dying to find out how your F/R diffed system performs. That's a helluva laundry list of parts you have there. Kind of a who's who of 3rd party aftermarket parts. You have exquisite taste. I know you don't need my blessing but I very much approve of your choices. Really nice work good sir (y)
I had first seen this idea on a guy named Warren's car (Hobao VTE2) over in Europe.
He used a small carbon fiber plate to extend the servo off the center brace further. This allows it to square up linkage a little better. I plan to go this route.

View attachment 284111
Oh, now that's interesting. I hadn't considered that option. This is certainly a better explanation of the CF brace that I got with my VTE than anything I've been able to envision what it was intended for. This would have been perfect for "Warren's build". Mine is just the wrong way around because it (unsurprisingly) interferes with a chassis mounted servo.
1680628458327.jpeg
 
Final build update - I think the car is finally 'done'. Its funny - I started with a Limitless V2 roller, and the only parts of that roller that ended up staying in this build were the shock housings, standoffs, A arm hinge pins, rear diffuse, pillar balls, some differential parts and some misc screws.

Its done a few road tests, everything seems to be happy on it so far. Pulled 94mph on the road in front of my house - ran out of road. So next week I'll take it out and do a full pass on 4s. Everything looks pretty much as it did in the last round of photos, except its all wired up. I ended up shaving the steering arm down to allow battery clearance.

I'll post an update after the 4s pass. Hoping to see a little over 125 out of it with the current gearing. Then its 8s time.

So here is the final build list:

Scorched:
GT Full Length Carbon Chassis
Carbon front splitter for C100 body
Carbon Top Deck
116mm Trident Driveshafts - front and rear
Titanium Front Axle CVD Shafts - front and rear - rear converted to CVD (ARAC3980, ARA311035, ARAC3990)
Aluminum Bell Crank Arms
Side body posts
Adjustable Rear Hinge Pin Holders

GPM:
Rear Upper Tie Rods
Front Steering Tie Rods
Front Lower A Arms
Front Upper A Arms
Rear Lower A Arms
Front Lower Suspension Mount
Aluminum Differential Case - front and rear
Hardened Steel differential gear set - center
Rear Body Post Fixed Mount
UDR Servo Horn with SST Adjustable Tie Rod

Hot Racing:
Aluminum HD Diff case and gearbox cover - front and rear
Aluminum Diffuse Supports
Aluminum Lower Diffuse Wing Mount
Aluminum Wing Cross Brace
Aluminum Upper front Suspension Mount
Aluminum Front Steering Blocks
Aluminum Rear Hubs (I don't like these rear hubs. Bearings are very hard to get out, and I have some fitment issues on one side that required some grinding. GPM ones aren't great either. May switch them out for Scorched)
90 Degree servo mounts

Perfect Pass:
Batwing V2
Monster Servo
Launch Control
QS8 Connectors
Springs
Aluminum Body Mounts
Carbon Shock Towers
Carbon Ackerman Plate
Carbon Steering Top Plate

PPS:
Grublock Motor Mount - front and rear
Switch Mount for XLX2

Castle:
1721 2400kv - front and rear
XLX2 - front and rear

Avid:
Revolution | Aura - 8x16x5 - full set plus spares
Metal - 8x19x6 - full set plus spares
Revolution | Aura - 5x13x4 - full plus spares
Revolution - 15x24x5 - full plus spares
Revolution | Aura - 6x10x3 - full plus spares

Saga Gears

Delta Plastics Ford C100 body

Futaba:
10px w Life flat pack
R2006GS Rx
GYC 441 Gyro

China Hobbyline - 4s 9500mah X4

Misc:
SkyRC SK-500023
Arma Metal Diff Case - for center diff
40t HD steel spur gear - ebay (for center diff)
V2 rear spool outdrive - ARA311069 (Went through a few of these getting the custom center diff perfect)
DC to DC step up transformer (for signal booster)
Injora 22 LED light bar Multi Mode (Rear Light)
ShareGoo 16LED light bar (front light)
Hardened Undersized High-Speed M2 Tool Steel Rod, 2.25 mm Diameter, 2-1/4" Long - McMaster-Carr (for drive cup pins)
Red M4 Countersunk Washers
Aluminum Spacer 5/16 OD x .172 ID x 11/32 - Aluminumspacers.com
4W WiFi Booster 2.4GHz wireless router signal amplifier - ebay (signal booster for Tx)
Carbon Fiber Carrying Handle for Futaba 10px - Ebay
SMA Male to uFL coax adapter - 12 inches - ebay
SkyRC GNSS GPS Mount - ebay
Dual Lock
That is one crazy amazing build! I’m with @Diem Turner also, curious how the spool/diff setup performs. Some out of the box thinking there with a clear goal in mind. Well done, man.
I recently did a complete overhaul and reconfig of my Infraction and to facilitate the 4x4S abreast battery arrangement like in the Hobao below, the servo had to go and I went the KT route. It didn't take long before I realized that to accomplish this with a standard sized servo would require the full length GT chassis from Scorched as the stock front section of the Infraction is too thick which causes the servo to sit too high, making it impossible to connect the link to the servo. I didn't have $300 for the chassis (they were sold out at the time even if I had wanted one) so I did what I do in situations like this: what do I have and can something be made to do what I need it to do?

Long story short, I developed a flat bottom conversion kit for those of us who have the standard GT chassis. This is my working prototype. A final CF version will be made before too long but for the time being...I actually really like the way this looks.
View attachment 290459View attachment 290460

On a slightly different not, your build looks freakin' amazing. I'm dying to find out how your F/R diffed system performs. That's a helluva laundry list of parts you have there. Kind of a who's who of 3rd party aftermarket parts. You have exquisite taste. I know you don't need my blessing but I very much approve of your choices. Really nice work good sir (y)

Oh, now that's interesting. I hadn't considered that option. This is certainly a better explanation of the CF brace that I got with my VTE than anything I've been able to envision what it was intended for. This would have been perfect for "Warren's build". Mine is just the wrong way around because it (unsurprisingly) interferes with a chassis mounted servo.
View attachment 290461
A “full length kit” for a stock Infraction is a great idea. The servo looks like it should have been there from the rip. The integrated front body posts seems pretty genius as well. I feel bad stealing your ideas, but I think that one is coming with me. And that VTE shore do look purty too!
You guys definitely have a way of instilling humility on us mere mortals trying our best to slap a car together…
 
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I recently did a complete overhaul and reconfig of my Infraction and to facilitate the 4x4S abreast battery arrangement like in the Hobao below, the servo had to go and I went the KT route. It didn't take long before I realized that to accomplish this with a standard sized servo would require the full length GT chassis from Scorched as the stock front section of the Infraction is too thick which causes the servo to sit too high, making it impossible to connect the link to the servo. I didn't have $300 for the chassis (they were sold out at the time even if I had wanted one) so I did what I do in situations like this: what do I have and can something be made to do what I need it to do?

Long story short, I developed a flat bottom conversion kit for those of us who have the standard GT chassis. This is my working prototype. A final CF version will be made before too long but for the time being...I actually really like the way this looks.


On a slightly different not, your build looks freakin' amazing. I'm dying to find out how your F/R diffed system performs. That's a helluva laundry list of parts you have there. Kind of a who's who of 3rd party aftermarket parts. You have exquisite taste. I know you don't need my blessing but I very much approve of your choices. Really nice work good sir (y)

Oh, now that's interesting. I hadn't considered that option. This is certainly a better explanation of the CF brace that I got with my VTE than anything I've been able to envision what it was intended for. This would have been perfect for "Warren's build". Mine is just the wrong way around because it (unsurprisingly) interferes with a chassis mounted servo.

That looks absolutely awesome!
I really liked the KT method, but what I realized is that to put my servo there, I'd have to completely change how my body mounts up because I use the Infraction body mounts. So that front bumper support is completely in the way and there wasn't a great way to cut it to accommodate.

I also think maybe the Scorched upper deck has a little more width than the Hobao. I didn't see any need to make any sort of extension because my servo arm geometry was almost bang on. Its maaaaybe got a 2-3 degree lateral offset. Otherwise its perfectly level to the chassis from the side view. Nothing that was going to impact performance.

I'm really excited to see what this car is able to do. My goal with it is 200mph, and I'd like to get there without overcharging or doing any excessive battery heating. I don't know if it can do it, but I feel like if the center diff does its job the way I hope it will - it has a solid chance.

My 4s full power logs should hopefully show me if I am experiencing a significant amperage difference between the front and rear. If I am, I'll be able to adjust my spur gearing on the rear part of the diff and then monitor as I start increasing power.
 
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That is one crazy amazing build! I’m with @Diem Turner also, curious how the spool/diff setup performs. Some out of the box thinking there with a clear goal in mind. Well done, man.

A “full length kit” for a stock Infraction is a great idea. The servo looks like it should have been there from the rip. The integrated front body posts seems pretty genius as well. I feel bad stealing your ideas, but I think that one is coming with me. And that VTE shore do look purty too!
You guys definitely have a way of instilling humility on us mere mortals trying our best to slap a car together…
Oh shut up :LOL: This from a guy who makes some of the most beautiful builds is a bit more than I can bear. And you adopting an idea of mine is flattery. The pleasure is all on this side of the table. Trust me.

I'm like the Russian space program of the 60's. The US spent ten million dollars (or however much it was) on developing a ball point pen that works in zero G. The Russians said "Screw you gaiz, vee take pencils!". Low tech solutions to high tech problems.
That looks absolutely awesome!
I really liked the KT method, but what I realized is that to put my servo there, I'd have to completely change how my body mounts up because I use the Infraction body mounts. So that front bumper support is completely in the way and there wasn't a great way to cut it to accommodate.

I also think maybe the Scorched upper deck has a little more width than the Hobao. I didn't see any need to make any sort of extension because my servo arm geometry was almost bang on. Its maaaaybe got a 2-3 degree lateral offset. Otherwise its
Thanks bro, I appreciate it.

Yeah, the body mount initially posed a problem I hadn't considered until I was elbow deep into the construction and I wasn't going to reverse course because of something like a body mount. I was dreaming up some wacky scaffoldings in my head to work around where the servo is, yet keep the body posts in their original positions so that I could continue to use the holes that were already in the body.

So I stared at the chassis for a while and after a couple of minutes, I had a stroke. Dunno if it was genius, I don't stroke my own ego that way. That's what I have interns for.

Anyhow, in contravention to how the FC100 was designed to be cut out, I had left the horizontal strip of Lexan at the front of the nose. I run an oversized splitter and I felt like leaving it on would make for a better transition from splitter to the body. What I did was plug the existing holes up front (that doesn't sound dirty at all...yikes...), saw the tips off of two body posts, drill holes in that aforementioned front lip and....tadaaa. My new body mount consists of just two little nubs screwed into the splitter.
1680631364256.png
1680631413433.png


I did take some pics with a full load out after I was done with the reconstructive surgery. The splitter in this pic was the alpha version and proof of concept. The above pictures are the beta release and the v1 CF version should get fabricated in the coming weeks. I'll just enjoy the plexiglass until I hit something. :LOL: This could be run either as an 8S parallel or a 4S quadrallel.
1680631832620.jpeg
 
Oh shut up :LOL: This from a guy who makes some of the most beautiful builds is a bit more than I can bear. And you adopting an idea of mine is flattery. The pleasure is all on this side of the table. Trust me.

I'm like the Russian space program of the 60's. The US spent ten million dollars (or however much it was) on developing a ball point pen that works in zero G. The Russians said "Screw you gaiz, vee take pencils!". Low tech solutions to high tech problems.

Thanks bro, I appreciate it.

Yeah, the body mount initially posed a problem I hadn't considered until I was elbow deep into the construction and I wasn't going to reverse course because of something like a body mount. I was dreaming up some wacky scaffoldings in my head to work around where the servo is, yet keep the body posts in their original positions so that I could continue to use the holes that were already in the body.

So I stared at the chassis for a while and after a couple of minutes, I had a stroke. Dunno if it was genius, I don't stroke my own ego that way. That's what I have interns for.

Anyhow, in contravention to how the FC100 was designed to be cut out, I had left the horizontal strip of Lexan at the front of the nose. I run an oversized splitter and I felt like leaving it on would make for a better transition from splitter to the body. What I did was plug the existing holes up front (that doesn't sound dirty at all...yikes...), saw the tips off of two body posts, drill holes in that aforementioned front lip and....tadaaa. My new body mount consists of just two little nubs screwed into the splitter.


I did take some pics with a full load out after I was done with the reconstructive surgery. The splitter in this pic was the alpha version and proof of concept. The above pictures are the beta release and the v1 CF version should get fabricated in the coming weeks. I'll just enjoy the plexiglass until I hit something. :LOL: This could be run either as an 8S parallel or a 4S quadrallel.

I have to say, that is quite the battery cable configuration you have there.
That is extremely clever how you've mounted the front of the body. I dig it!
 
That is extremely clever how you've mounted the front of the body. I dig it!

Agreed, and using a front splitter in the correct way where it extends past the front bumper is by definition how a splitter should be set up. Anything behind the body is just an air blocker.

IF that much downforce is necessary on an FC100 body is another discussion topic. Also, it could restrict how low you can mount the body which again is another topic.

The biggest issue with putting it beyond the body is addressed by what you @Diem Turner came up with. Well done!
 
Agreed, and using a front splitter in the correct way where it extends past the front bumper is by definition how a splitter should be set up. Anything behind the body is just an air blocker.

IF that much downforce is necessary on an FC100 body is another discussion topic. Also, it could restrict how low you can mount the body which again is another topic.

The biggest issue with putting it beyond the body is addressed by what you @Diem Turner came up with. Well done!

Exactly! If you go back and look on page 3, I have a body on picture. Its hard to tell with the shadows, but I'm running the larger front splitter and still have the lip around the front intact. I think that is about as low as I can get the body unless I went with an alternative like @Diem Turner. Right now my body sits right on the bar across the front. Which I liked - I figured the more rigid I could make that high pressure area the better. Would reduce the chance of unpredictable aero due to body movement.
I figure during the initial learning curve, the more front down force the better.
I'm assuming most people measure tire temperatures to get an idea as to whether they've got too much front down force? Constantly chunking front tires?
 
Exactly! If you go back and look on page 3, I have a body on picture. Its hard to tell with the shadows, but I'm running the larger front splitter and still have the lip around the front intact. I think that is about as low as I can get the body unless I went with an alternative like @Diem Turner. Right now my body sits right on the bar across the front. Which I liked - I figured the more rigid I could make that high pressure area the better. Would reduce the chance of unpredictable aero due to body movement.
I figure during the initial learning curve, the more front down force the better.
I'm assuming most people measure tire temperatures to get an idea as to whether they've got too much front down force? Constantly chunking front tires?

I am not sure that there is a good way to measure downforce when you have suspension travel limiters. Without that.... you would know by the tires rubbing the paint off the body (witness marks as they call it). Mine did initially until I got the harder Diaz springs installed and Tygon limiters.

I also realized the rear sides were flexing and added fiberglass across the rear. We now have the Perfect Pass body mount that helps, but the rear of the body may still flex so I like my solution better.

The way you have the front lip of the body cut is exactly like mine. I think keeping some of that material there helps keep it stiff.
My only concern is that air gap between the CF and the body. Maybe put some tape over it before running at speeds over 100?
 
I am not sure that there is a good way to measure downforce when you have suspension travel limiters. Without that.... you would know by the tires rubbing the paint off the body (witness marks as they call it). Mine did initially until I got the harder Diaz springs installed and Tygon limiters.

I also realized the rear sides were flexing and added fiberglass across the rear. We now have the Perfect Pass body mount that helps, but the rear of the body may still flex so I like my solution better.

The way you have the front lip of the body cut is exactly like mine. I think keeping some of that material there helps keep it stiff.
My only concern is that air gap between the CF and the body. Maybe put some tape over it before running at speeds over 100?

Yup, will be taping the front and sides.
 
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