Limitless Yet another GT build

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Arrma RC's
  1. Limitless
  2. Typhon 6s
Thought I should introduce myself and show what I'm working on.
This is a Limitless on Scorched GT chassis. It will be a dual Castle 1721 2400kv car running 8s on each motor.
Almost the whole scorched catalog in it.
SPC chassis, front and rear trident driveshafts, front CVs, carbon top plate, aluminum servo saver, bearing upgrade for the steering, carbon wing. Bunch of other scorched stuff not on the car yet. Side body mounts, battery hold downs, rear adjustable pin carriers. Just need to decide if I convert the rear to Scorched CV's.
Perfect Pass carbon shock towers, stub outs, ackerman plate. Perfect Pass servo.
GPM A-Arms, body mounts. Hot Racing diff housings and wing mount brackets. 50lb Springs on the shocks.
PPS motor mounts. It'll have Avid bearings throughout.
Aluminum diff cases all around built with hardened steel pins. Ford C100 Body from Delta Plastics. (Rough cut)

I'll start off by saying I have no idea if this car will work. The center driveline is a V2 spool joined with a differential. This idea was hatched to attempt to work around two problems I've seen two builders having. The first being Raz having motor problems with dual 2400's directly connected once it started pushing higher RPM with better batteries. The second one is Mike Stallone's dual motor build with the front and rear divorced. Was reading that the car fights itself.
So this is a play at keeping the center driveline connected, but letting each motor be able to breath and not fight over timing. I do expect to see different outputs from the speed controllers, and will probably have to tune that out with offset gearing, but it should hopefully be much closer than with a divorced driveline.

There are some 'wait and see' risks. I'm not sure if that center differential is going to be able to hold the power. The original design had the spool driving the front wheels and the diff side driving the rear. The way the SPC chassis is drilled - that just won't work. So for now I'll try the diff in the front. It shouldn't matter *that* much as long as its able to hold the power.

Plan B will be making an adapter plate and shaving the PPS mounts down about 3mm. Then I should be able to get the spacing correct to run the spool in the front.

Plan C is that I'm looking for a stronger diff setup.

Dry fit up is done. So I'm going back through the car doing the suspension setup. The scorched driveshafts are a little shorter than stock, so I have to have my drive cup re-made and extended about 5mm. This is another wait and see, because I'm not sure if that extra 5mm is going to cause vibration at high RPM. We have it machined pretty tight, but I may have to come up with something to stabilize that drive cup. We'll see.

My goal with this car is to hit 200mph. I'll be happy if that happens. Going further depends on how painful it is to get to 200, and whether it seems like the car has much left to give.


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I'm strawberry..... jelly
So @Tirefryer426 how long have you been at this. I can't imagine this is a first build with the complexity.
Good question. I’d like to also ask what’s the fastest he’s been so far? Just curious.
 
Thought I should introduce myself and show what I'm working on.
This is a Limitless on Scorched GT chassis. It will be a dual Castle 1721 2400kv car running 8s on each motor.
Almost the whole scorched catalog in it.
SPC chassis, front and rear trident driveshafts, front CVs, carbon top plate, aluminum servo saver, bearing upgrade for the steering, carbon wing. Bunch of other scorched stuff not on the car yet. Side body mounts, battery hold downs, rear adjustable pin carriers. Just need to decide if I convert the rear to Scorched CV's.
Perfect Pass carbon shock towers, stub outs, ackerman plate. Perfect Pass servo.
GPM A-Arms, body mounts. Hot Racing diff housings and wing mount brackets. 50lb Springs on the shocks.
PPS motor mounts. It'll have Avid bearings throughout.
Aluminum diff cases all around built with hardened steel pins. Ford C100 Body from Delta Plastics. (Rough cut)

I'll start off by saying I have no idea if this car will work. The center driveline is a V2 spool joined with a differential. This idea was hatched to attempt to work around two problems I've seen two builders having. The first being Raz having motor problems with dual 2400's directly connected once it started pushing higher RPM with better batteries. The second one is Mike Stallone's dual motor build with the front and rear divorced. Was reading that the car fights itself.
So this is a play at keeping the center driveline connected, but letting each motor be able to breath and not fight over timing. I do expect to see different outputs from the speed controllers, and will probably have to tune that out with offset gearing, but it should hopefully be much closer than with a divorced driveline.

There are some 'wait and see' risks. I'm not sure if that center differential is going to be able to hold the power. The original design had the spool driving the front wheels and the diff side driving the rear. The way the SPC chassis is drilled - that just won't work. So for now I'll try the diff in the front. It shouldn't matter *that* much as long as its able to hold the power.

Plan B will be making an adapter plate and shaving the PPS mounts down about 3mm. Then I should be able to get the spacing correct to run the spool in the front.

Plan C is that I'm looking for a stronger diff setup.

Dry fit up is done. So I'm going back through the car doing the suspension setup. The scorched driveshafts are a little shorter than stock, so I have to have my drive cup re-made and extended about 5mm. This is another wait and see, because I'm not sure if that extra 5mm is going to cause vibration at high RPM. We have it machined pretty tight, but I may have to come up with something to stabilize that drive cup. We'll see.

My goal with this car is to hit 200mph. I'll be happy if that happens. Going further depends on how painful it is to get to 200, and whether it seems like the car has much left to give.


View attachment 251246View attachment 251247View attachment 251248View attachment 251250View attachment 251249View attachment 251251
I couldn't build something like this cause it would only sit pretty on the shelf:whistle:
 
I'm strawberry..... jelly
So @Tirefryer426 how long have you been at this. I can't imagine this is a first build with the complexity.
I'm sure I'll face a fair amount of criticism for this - but I'll be totally honest. First speed run build. (And yes its tempting to just sit and stare at it)
I'm sure everyone is shaking their head right now. I thought about not posting until next year after the car has had some run time, but I figured everyone else shares knowledge - might as well put it up here. And while I said my goal is 200, I just want to make it known that I don't think its going to be easy, nor do I expect it to happen immediately - or maybe not at all. And I expect there to be pain (a lot) along the way.

I've spent the last few months as an observer, I've poured over every video and article I can find. There is a point where knowledge needs mileage, so I plan on doing this build over the winter and to start shakedowns in the spring. 4s testing to make sure the car and the road I have work. Then slowly working towards the first milestone of 150. I've got 1.5 miles of straight, flat road with no traffic.

I've learned a great deal from others' published mistakes, but I get that there are some things might be held back that I'll have to learn for myself. I guess we'll see how it goes. I'd rather do my learning on the platform I intend to run with instead of an in between build. But my tune may change after a few crashes. I'll cross that bridge when I get there.

So - don't flame me too hard. :)
 
I'm sure I'll face a fair amount of criticism for this - but I'll be totally honest. First speed run build. (And yes its tempting to just sit and stare at it)
I'm sure everyone is shaking their head right now. I thought about not posting until next year after the car has had some run time, but I figured everyone else shares knowledge - might as well put it up here. And while I said my goal is 200, I just want to make it known that I don't think its going to be easy, nor do I expect it to happen immediately - or maybe not at all. And I expect there to be pain (a lot) along the way.

I've spent the last few months as an observer, I've poured over every video and article I can find. There is a point where knowledge needs mileage, so I plan on doing this build over the winter and to start shakedowns in the spring. 4s testing to make sure the car and the road I have work. Then slowly working towards the first milestone of 150. I've got 1.5 miles of straight, flat road with no traffic.

I've learned a great deal from others' published mistakes, but I get that there are some things might be held back that I'll have to learn for myself. I guess we'll see how it goes. I'd rather do my learning on the platform I intend to run with instead of an in between build. But my tune may change after a few crashes. I'll cross that bridge when I get there.

So - don't flame me too hard. :)
No hate. I wish you the best of luck. I just don’t wanna see an (estimated) $2500+ build get smashed. Just try to gear for 100mph to start. Trust me. Don’t be in a rush. If you have to make a correction it’s nice to know how the car responds. If it doesn’t respond well then it’s better to have it happen at 100 or so than 150+.
 
I'm sure I'll face a fair amount of criticism for this - but I'll be totally honest. First speed run build. (And yes its tempting to just sit and stare at it)
I'm sure everyone is shaking their head right now. I thought about not posting until next year after the car has had some run time, but I figured everyone else shares knowledge - might as well put it up here. And while I said my goal is 200, I just want to make it known that I don't think its going to be easy, nor do I expect it to happen immediately - or maybe not at all. And I expect there to be pain (a lot) along the way.

I've spent the last few months as an observer, I've poured over every video and article I can find. There is a point where knowledge needs mileage, so I plan on doing this build over the winter and to start shakedowns in the spring. 4s testing to make sure the car and the road I have work. Then slowly working towards the first milestone of 150. I've got 1.5 miles of straight, flat road with no traffic.

I've learned a great deal from others' published mistakes, but I get that there are some things might be held back that I'll have to learn for myself. I guess we'll see how it goes. I'd rather do my learning on the platform I intend to run with instead of an in between build. But my tune may change after a few crashes. I'll cross that bridge when I get there.

So - don't flame me too hard. :)
Just for the sake of your username, I think you should get a backup that is setup as a drifter😉.


Oh, Welcome to AF btw.
 
I'm sure I'll face a fair amount of criticism for this - but I'll be totally honest. First speed run build. (And yes its tempting to just sit and stare at it)
I'm sure everyone is shaking their head right now. I thought about not posting until next year after the car has had some run time, but I figured everyone else shares knowledge - might as well put it up here. And while I said my goal is 200, I just want to make it known that I don't think its going to be easy, nor do I expect it to happen immediately - or maybe not at all. And I expect there to be pain (a lot) along the way.

I've spent the last few months as an observer, I've poured over every video and article I can find. There is a point where knowledge needs mileage, so I plan on doing this build over the winter and to start shakedowns in the spring. 4s testing to make sure the car and the road I have work. Then slowly working towards the first milestone of 150. I've got 1.5 miles of straight, flat road with no traffic.

I've learned a great deal from others' published mistakes, but I get that there are some things might be held back that I'll have to learn for myself. I guess we'll see how it goes. I'd rather do my learning on the platform I intend to run with instead of an in between build. But my tune may change after a few crashes. I'll cross that bridge when I get there.

So - don't flame me too hard. :)
I don't know beans about speed running.
All I know is its a beautiful rig and I can wait to see some speed run vids!
 
I'm sure I'll face a fair amount of criticism for this - but I'll be totally honest. First speed run build. (And yes its tempting to just sit and stare at it)
I'm sure everyone is shaking their head right now. I thought about not posting until next year after the car has had some run time, but I figured everyone else shares knowledge - might as well put it up here. And while I said my goal is 200, I just want to make it known that I don't think its going to be easy, nor do I expect it to happen immediately - or maybe not at all. And I expect there to be pain (a lot) along the way.

I've spent the last few months as an observer, I've poured over every video and article I can find. There is a point where knowledge needs mileage, so I plan on doing this build over the winter and to start shakedowns in the spring. 4s testing to make sure the car and the road I have work. Then slowly working towards the first milestone of 150. I've got 1.5 miles of straight, flat road with no traffic.

I've learned a great deal from others' published mistakes, but I get that there are some things might be held back that I'll have to learn for myself. I guess we'll see how it goes. I'd rather do my learning on the platform I intend to run with instead of an in between build. But my tune may change after a few crashes. I'll cross that bridge when I get there.

So - don't flame me too hard. :)
There's nothing to flame here. :)

Ambition is great so long as you remember to take baby steps. On the road to 200mph, there will invariably be pain. I think that's just part of the process. But, to my mind, it sounds like you're coming at this with the right attitude and starting from 4S is the way forward. I bid you Godspeed and good luck on your journey. Can't wait to see how it goes. (y)
 
No hate. I wish you the best of luck. I just don’t wanna see an (estimated) $2500+ build get smashed. Just try to gear for 100mph to start. Trust me. Don’t be in a rush. If you have to make a correction it’s nice to know how the car responds. If it doesn’t respond well then it’s better to have it happen at 100 or so than 150+.
Wonderful advice! Thank you.
Will definitely be taking baby steps.
Just for the sake of your username, I think you should get a backup that is setup as a drifter😉.


Oh, Welcome to AF btw.
I like the way you think. :)
I was thinking about putting the donor V2 back together and doing a basher with it.
There's nothing to flame here. :)

Ambition is great so long as you remember to take baby steps. On the road to 200mph, there will invariably be pain. I think that's just part of the process. But, to my mind, it sounds like you're coming at this with the right attitude and starting from 4S is the way forward. I bid you Godspeed and good luck on your journey. Can't wait to see how it goes. (y)
Much appreciated!
Hopefully I'll have some good updates come spring time. I'm in the midwest and the weather is just starting to turn sour.
 
Have a build update.
Motors are in. Kind of crazy how small they look. These are 1721 2400kv.
Believe I have the suspension mostly complete.
I added GPM tie rods front and rear. GPM front lower suspension mounts.
I decided to go with Hot Racing hub carriers front and rear. Hot racing upper suspension carrier in the front.
Scorched Racing adjustable rear suspension plates set for 1.3 degrees of toe.
I went with GPM front and rear diff housings instead of the Arma aluminum ones. The modular Arma ones you have to bevel the aluminum cap to work with the GP5 gears. But I was having to bevel deep enough that the lip wasn't there anymore. I was worried about centering without it, so I'm going to try the one piece GPMs. Reason I didn't just stay with the stock diffs is that I don't like the little grub screw that can come out.
For the center diff I had to stick with the Arma modular aluminum one. The GPM one piece has a shoulder on it that doesn't clear my motor mount configuration. But I did use the GPM hardened steel gear set and hardened steel pins.
500k front, 500k center, 200k rear to start.
Scorched side body pins. Not sure if I like them yet - but they are there.
Did the shock setup - 50lb springs, fuel tube limiters, spacers in the front for ride height - basically just like James' setup video. I like this setup on the front, but I'm not sure if its what I'll stick with on the back. Might try going with a bigger silicone tube and an aluminum spacer to hard limit squat. I'm trying to figure out what Raz is using on his rear shocks. Can't readily identify it, so if anyone knows what that is I'd be curious. I'm sure someone is going to recommend deleting the shocks all together. I'm not a believer in that yet.
Sway bars - yes those are coming out when I pull the car apart again to do the bearings and do final assembly with loctite.
I have another set of Scorched CVs coming - I am going to go ahead and convert the rear to CVs. I don't think that extra few mm of width on the V2 is going to matter.

Getting the body finished up and ready to paint. Trying to make a decision on how much of the rear of the F100 body I cut off. I have it notched to work with the wing. But right before the wing there is a nice taper down until it has a turn up like a little spoiler. So I'm thinking about cutting it back far enough that the little turn up is gone and I have a nice teardrop profile there. Not sure if there is a dramatic aero benefit to that. But it certainly doesn't need the downforce. Anyone done that, or is there a reason people are leaving that there and I'm missing it?

Time to start getting after the electronics!


GT1.jpg

GT2.jpg

gt3.jpg

gt4.jpg
 
Have a build update.
Motors are in. Kind of crazy how small they look. These are 1721 2400kv.
Believe I have the suspension mostly complete.
I added GPM tie rods front and rear. GPM front lower suspension mounts.
I decided to go with Hot Racing hub carriers front and rear. Hot racing upper suspension carrier in the front.
Scorched Racing adjustable rear suspension plates set for 1.3 degrees of toe.
I went with GPM front and rear diff housings instead of the Arma aluminum ones. The modular Arma ones you have to bevel the aluminum cap to work with the GP5 gears. But I was having to bevel deep enough that the lip wasn't there anymore. I was worried about centering without it, so I'm going to try the one piece GPMs. Reason I didn't just stay with the stock diffs is that I don't like the little grub screw that can come out.
For the center diff I had to stick with the Arma modular aluminum one. The GPM one piece has a shoulder on it that doesn't clear my motor mount configuration. But I did use the GPM hardened steel gear set and hardened steel pins.
500k front, 500k center, 200k rear to start.
Scorched side body pins. Not sure if I like them yet - but they are there.
Did the shock setup - 50lb springs, fuel tube limiters, spacers in the front for ride height - basically just like James' setup video. I like this setup on the front, but I'm not sure if its what I'll stick with on the back. Might try going with a bigger silicone tube and an aluminum spacer to hard limit squat. I'm trying to figure out what Raz is using on his rear shocks. Can't readily identify it, so if anyone knows what that is I'd be curious. I'm sure someone is going to recommend deleting the shocks all together. I'm not a believer in that yet.
Sway bars - yes those are coming out when I pull the car apart again to do the bearings and do final assembly with loctite.
I have another set of Scorched CVs coming - I am going to go ahead and convert the rear to CVs. I don't think that extra few mm of width on the V2 is going to matter.

Getting the body finished up and ready to paint. Trying to make a decision on how much of the rear of the F100 body I cut off. I have it notched to work with the wing. But right before the wing there is a nice taper down until it has a turn up like a little spoiler. So I'm thinking about cutting it back far enough that the little turn up is gone and I have a nice teardrop profile there. Not sure if there is a dramatic aero benefit to that. But it certainly doesn't need the downforce. Anyone done that, or is there a reason people are leaving that there and I'm missing it?

Time to start getting after the electronics!


View attachment 256293
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View attachment 256296
Raz runs different setups on different cars in regards to the rear shocks. I've seen him use only fuel tubing on several builds where he omits the springs altogether.
I'm running the heavy springs by Joe Diaz in the rear with several plastic clips on the shock shaft that hard limit the suspension travel to about 2mm in the rear. I like these because I can add and remove them without having to disassemble the shocks every time.
1668467347301.jpeg


The build is coming along nicely man, nice work. I'm excited to see how this thing performs when it's finished. Not that I don't enjoy and appreciate the build process mind you. (y)
 
Raz runs different setups on different cars in regards to the rear shocks. I've seen him use only fuel tubing on several builds where he omits the springs altogether.
I'm running the heavy springs by Joe Diaz in the rear with several plastic clips on the shock shaft that hard limit the suspension travel to about 2mm in the rear. I like these because I can add and remove them without having to disassemble the shocks every time.
View attachment 256306

The build is coming along nicely man, nice work. I'm excited to see how this thing performs when it's finished. Not that I don't enjoy and appreciate the build process mind you. (y)
Link to those clips? Looks like an interesting option. I will admit my least favorite part of tuning a speed run car is taking the shocks apart all the time.
 
Link to those clips? Looks like an interesting option. I will admit my least favorite part of tuning a speed run car is taking the shocks apart all the time.
I made them myself from some plastic washers I had laying around. Don't ask me where I got them. I just cut the opening with some flush cuts. I'm sure you could find something comparable at any hardware store. I can get you exact dimensions if you want.

But yeah, the disassembling of the shocks was a real turn off for me too when it came to the fuel tube method. Same goes for using fuel tubing inside the shocks for shock limiting.
 
I made them myself from some plastic washers I had laying around. Don't ask me where I got them. I just cut the opening with some flush cuts. I'm sure you could find something comparable at any hardware store. I can get you exact dimensions if you want.

But yeah, the disassembling of the shocks was a real turn off for me too when it came to the fuel tube method. Same goes for using fuel tubing inside the shocks for shock limiting.
Thanks but I’ll figure it out. Figured if there was a link it would be easier. I’ll keep using the nylon spacers to lower the front since those are more precise.
 
Raz runs different setups on different cars in regards to the rear shocks. I've seen him use only fuel tubing on several builds where he omits the springs altogether.
I'm running the heavy springs by Joe Diaz in the rear with several plastic clips on the shock shaft that hard limit the suspension travel to about 2mm in the rear. I like these because I can add and remove them without having to disassemble the shocks every time.
View attachment 256306

The build is coming along nicely man, nice work. I'm excited to see how this thing performs when it's finished. Not that I don't enjoy and appreciate the build process mind you. (y)
Thats a great idea! I'll measure later - but I wonder if the caster shims would work there (snip off the ears). Might be too big if memory serves. I like this a lot, though. Thank you for sharing!

The stuff I was looking at in Raz's videos he seems to use quite a bit. Its got a red outer lining and a black center. Almost kind of looks like low pressure hydraulic line - but the color is more vivid. And it looks like there are sections and not one piece. No springs. I see it a lot in his earlier videos - I figured he'd evolved away from it - but I saw it in a pretty recent one, too.

I'm excited to get it out there - but I'm in the midwest and winter is pretty much here. So I've got a few months to kill before I can rip it.
 
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