Was supposed to be 50F out on Sunday... it reached 35F with 15-20mph winds... I ran anyway. Wanted to see how the max6/blx2050kv did in my ERBEv2. Also wanted to run my outcast again before installing the other max6 I'll be getting for Christmas.
So far, the last diff shimming/rebuild I did on the outcast is holding up really well. Sounds good, runs nice and quiet. Ran it pretty hard for a couple sets of packs. I had backed the spring retainers off as I had intended on shelving it until Spring and when doing so, I noticed one of my rear shock springs is about 3/4" shorter than the other when uncompressed. Not sure what that's all about. I didn't crank them down as far as before when I went to run it which made the rear end fish tail a lot. I'll get some new springs on order. I hadn't run it since I installed the Scorched RC titanium ackerman bar/axle carrier flanges either. Took quite a few nasty tumbles and everything is good still. Was surprised with the cold that something didn't break. Especially the RPM wing mount which I boiled.
I did break the front body mounts at the skate park:
The max6/blx2050kv seems to perform really well. The old HPI F360C (MMv1) it replaced was very chattery at anything below 1/4 throttle with sporadic cogging and a somewhat unpredictable power curve due to lack of punch settings. The max6 just worked. I had to dial the brakes back from 50% as they were a bit aggressive. Even with the punch just at 3, it really puts the power down well. Had some center diff issues that became increasingly more evident as I ran the truck, but I ran it hard anyway.
Shattered my TBone rear skid wheelie bar into pieces, snapped bolts off the TBone front skid and ripped a bolt out of the bulkhead holding the skid on. Also snapped my wing mount 2 minutes into the run. Odds are, tbone would replace the skid piece, but I'm not going to bother with them.
Busted skid/wheelie bar:
When I got home, I made a new rear skid/wheelie bar attachment piece out of a sheet of kydex, looked into the 3mm screws that hold the front skid on that screw into the bottom of the bulkhead. Drilled them out and retapped and put 4mm bolts in. Then last night decided to look at the center diff. It's a total pain in the balls to get to as you have to remove the front skid, front tower and entire front assembly to get the transmission out as the front/center slider doesn't allow enough movement to slide off the transmission.
Found that the 4 screws holding the diff together had all backed out and when the concrete 20M "oil" warms up, it oozes out. The inside of the trans case was a mess of grease and silicone oil/goo. Cleaned it all up, took the diff apart and it had about 1/3 of what it should have left in it. This time I packed it full of the silicone puddy, then gently heated the alloy diff case with a torch, then gently worked the more pliable goo down into the gears more and was able to fill it better than before. Also cleaned all the screws, screw holes and then used orange loctite on them. Hopefully this improves the lack of center diff control dumping all the power to the front. While reinstalling, I increased the pinion again from the 18T I put on when putting in the 2050kv to a 19T. The speed check put it right at 50mph with the 18T, but with all the power going to the front, not sure how accurate that was. It feels slower than the outcast by a hair.
So far, the last diff shimming/rebuild I did on the outcast is holding up really well. Sounds good, runs nice and quiet. Ran it pretty hard for a couple sets of packs. I had backed the spring retainers off as I had intended on shelving it until Spring and when doing so, I noticed one of my rear shock springs is about 3/4" shorter than the other when uncompressed. Not sure what that's all about. I didn't crank them down as far as before when I went to run it which made the rear end fish tail a lot. I'll get some new springs on order. I hadn't run it since I installed the Scorched RC titanium ackerman bar/axle carrier flanges either. Took quite a few nasty tumbles and everything is good still. Was surprised with the cold that something didn't break. Especially the RPM wing mount which I boiled.
I did break the front body mounts at the skate park:
The max6/blx2050kv seems to perform really well. The old HPI F360C (MMv1) it replaced was very chattery at anything below 1/4 throttle with sporadic cogging and a somewhat unpredictable power curve due to lack of punch settings. The max6 just worked. I had to dial the brakes back from 50% as they were a bit aggressive. Even with the punch just at 3, it really puts the power down well. Had some center diff issues that became increasingly more evident as I ran the truck, but I ran it hard anyway.
Shattered my TBone rear skid wheelie bar into pieces, snapped bolts off the TBone front skid and ripped a bolt out of the bulkhead holding the skid on. Also snapped my wing mount 2 minutes into the run. Odds are, tbone would replace the skid piece, but I'm not going to bother with them.
Busted skid/wheelie bar:
When I got home, I made a new rear skid/wheelie bar attachment piece out of a sheet of kydex, looked into the 3mm screws that hold the front skid on that screw into the bottom of the bulkhead. Drilled them out and retapped and put 4mm bolts in. Then last night decided to look at the center diff. It's a total pain in the balls to get to as you have to remove the front skid, front tower and entire front assembly to get the transmission out as the front/center slider doesn't allow enough movement to slide off the transmission.
Found that the 4 screws holding the diff together had all backed out and when the concrete 20M "oil" warms up, it oozes out. The inside of the trans case was a mess of grease and silicone oil/goo. Cleaned it all up, took the diff apart and it had about 1/3 of what it should have left in it. This time I packed it full of the silicone puddy, then gently heated the alloy diff case with a torch, then gently worked the more pliable goo down into the gears more and was able to fill it better than before. Also cleaned all the screws, screw holes and then used orange loctite on them. Hopefully this improves the lack of center diff control dumping all the power to the front. While reinstalling, I increased the pinion again from the 18T I put on when putting in the 2050kv to a 19T. The speed check put it right at 50mph with the 18T, but with all the power going to the front, not sure how accurate that was. It feels slower than the outcast by a hair.
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