Outcast 4s Velo scratch build, LWB chassis (Old Yeller)

[Doom!]

@Velodromed Love that pic of Old Yeller with rear end squatted and gettin' it on!

 

[Velodromed]

@Velodromed Love that pic of Old Yeller with rear end squatted and gettin' it on!

Thanks! Old Yeller rocks, seems like the only weak points is the chassis. I now better understand why the 4s line has so much trouble with the chassis breaking. They simply are not made to handle the weight, power, and impacts. It’s pretty stupid that they did not strengthen it for the 4s cars actually, especially considering they’re charging so much for them. Hopefully the M2C brace takes care of the issue.

 

[Velodromed]

Just ordered the m2c chassis brace for old Yeller (big rock/typhon chassis). I’m super excited, I love my m2c 3s mount and upper chassis brace I have on both 4s builds. I think the brace locks into or something.

I haven’t bothered ordering the chassis yet. That’ll be in a couple weeks when I can get several other things I need from there. Meanwhile I’ll see it the brace is enough to hold the chassis together

 

[Velodromed]

Yes! M2c brace and new chassis have arrived. Man, this brace is a thing of beauty. I love how they include all of the hardware needed. I decided I’m not going to swap out the chassis yet. It’s only a small break at the rear, so I super glued it before installing the chassis brace. I am just curious to see how long the cracked chassis will last with the brace. I am also feeling super lazy right now as I’m still completely tore up from our rock hunting trip last week. Nerve damage sucks Can’t wait to get old yeller back out there…

 

[quiznatodd bidness]

I kinda wish they made that plate longer to include the front screw. I know you can’t tighten them down as much as the main body with the chassis shape having the contour, but I’ve broken at least 2 chassis’s at a point that looks to be in front of that brace.

As to the gluing, I jb welded my last break and put my homemade aluminum bash bar on, and it’s still going strong despite some light jumping and off road bash-racing.

 

[kspitters]

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Just wanted to let you know, this body looks awesome!

 

[Velodromed]

Just wanted to let you know, this body looks awesome!

Thanks! I actually got another clear one exactly the same last week. The current one is cut for a 3S car and the taller 4S towers make a little gap between the body and the chassis. It’s also had the living crap out of it and will need to be replaced soon. I want to pretty much do a similar paint job. I love Jconcept bodies. They are so damn tough. This one’s been through hell and still looks good.

I kinda wish they made that plate longer to include the front screw. I know you can’t tighten them down as much as the main body with the chassis shape having the contour, but I’ve broken at least 2 chassis’s at a point that looks to be in front of that brace.

As to the gluing, I jb welded my last break and put my homemade aluminum bash bar on, and it’s still going strong despite some light jumping and off road bash-racing.

Yeah, I’m hoping that this new brace holds the cracked chassis together. If it does, I will be super impressed. If it doesn’t, I bought two just so I’m prepared. JB weld is a good idea. I might go back and hit it with that as I have some.

 

[Velodromed]

Oh, I forgot about the rear shock rod I badly bent. When I was building my 4s vorteks, I needed a new set of rear shocks. I have plenty of springs from 6s Kraton/outcast shocks that I had bought for my 3s cars over the years, so it occurred to me to look at the mojave rear shocks. Comparing the Mojave rear shocks, at 16 bucks a pair, to the 6s Kraton shocks at over 30 bucks a pair, It was a no-brainer. They work very well on my vorteks so I ordered a set when I got the new chassis from jennys.

I received them in the mail this week, along with a new chassis that I will hold onto for when the current one finishes breaking. I filled them up with 60wt oil and made my own shock rod protectors as I’ve done for the last couple years, using these heavy duty skinny balloons below. The ballon is secured with a small zip tie at the end of the rod, while the top of the ballon slides over the base of the shock body.

I’ve compared how well the stock shock rod protectors work compared to mine and the ones I make are much better. On several pairs of shocks that had them on for over a year, when I pulled them off the rods were near spotless. Very little dust had penetrated. Also the rubber covered zip tie softens hard impacts during jumps. These heavy duty balloons are expensive compared to the normal long skinny balloons out there, but you get 100 of them and they are totally worth it. I haven’t had one fail in over two years of using them.

Now everything is ready to get old Yeller back out there but it’s been raining a lot, so will have to wait. I don’t think I’m going jump this car as much anymore. The weight on the plastic LWB chassis is a bit much for it to handle I think. My 4s vorteks with its SWB chassis is far more able to take the hits from jumping. Of course now that I have the m2c chassis brace on it I might as well jump it as I’m curious how long it’ll hold together the slightly cracked chassis.

I wish everybody a great weekend and be safe out there!

Qualatex Pioneer Balloon Company 100Each 350Q, Onyx Black https://a.co/d/fo53ba7

 

[Velodromed]

I love this m2c chassis brace! It’s pretty sexy as well. Took old yeller out today and drove it fairly hard for one pack. The brace is holding the cracked chassis together without issue. I am very impressed! I think I’ll get one for Thing, the 4s vorteks, when funds allow..

 

[Surchaufeur]

The brace only protects from breaking the chassis in the middle of it not at the gearboxes

 

[Velodromed]

The brace only protects from breaking the chassis in the middle of it not at the gearboxes

So far so good after a few runs on mine. It does more than just strengthen centrally, especially if using the m2c mount/center brace. It locks into that quite nicely.

 

[Velodromed]

I do not like the stock tower to tower brace. I like what I have on my short wheel base 4s Vorteks Thing, a 1/4x1/2, 6061 aluminum bar. It has worked fantastic for the last several years, so I picked up a bunch of these 6061 aluminum bars that are 14 inches long each. I need to cut roughly an inch and a half off one to fit the big rock chassis on old yeller. I also recently got a metal compass stamp, so I’m experimenting with it too. Ideally, I’ll get a more detailed compass stamp with ‘Veloworks’ beneath it. Or maybe another custom stamp that says ‘Veloworks’… I also took off the fan mount that Deet made a year+ ago. I prefer the powerhobby fan mount. Thinking I’ll sell this one…

 

[Velodromed]

I decided to make a few changes. I pulled the 6s Kraton front shocks and replaced them with mojave front shocks. I also moved the rear lower shock mounts to the outside. The steering improved a good bit and I like the way it drives, but I’m going to try something else first. I ordered s set of 4s outcast shocks off Jenny’s. They are so cheap at $35/set. I’ve heard good things about them also.

I broke the plastic mounting bits on the TtoT brace for the second time, so decided to craft my own tower to tower brace from 6061 aluminum, 1/2x1/4x14” bars. I got a dozen and will make braces for all my 3/4s cars this way. I’ve had one on my vorteks for years and it’s been solid. Between this, the m2c chassis brace and m2c motor mount/brace, it’ll be even stronger then it already is. I’ll get to practice my metal stamping also

 

[Velodromed]

For the drive shaft, where it connects to the rear hub, I’m using 7mm grub screws and this new plastic thread lock. Hopefully this, and the easier rear driveshaft to wheel angle from moving the lower shock mount out, will stop tearing up the driveshaft mount.

 

[Velodromed]

Very nice and solid tower to tower brace! I should have thought of this sooner. I’ll fit one to my 3s infraction next.

 

[Surchaufeur]

Issue with that solid bar is all the frontal shock will be transfered to the rear. The flex of the front will be transfered to the rear. So in a heavy nose crash the rear is going to break. Saw countless of people on facebook and other groups being conpletely confused on how did the rear off the truck snap off after a frontal colision.

They were all running a solid aftermarket chassis brace. Installing a center metal reinforcement on the middle will make the car more fragile because it restricts flexibility of the chassis The chassis will break either on the middle of the front gearbox or in the rear where the power module connects. The 6s metal chassis flexes a lot without you knowing making it a solid piece like a 7075 bathtub one is a receipt for complete disaster. Theres a reason nobody now buys those or make those kind of chassis. The solution to the v2 chassis issues can easily be dealth with by adding preload to the center chassi brace, changing the hinge pins for longer ones and upgrade the hinge pin braket to prevent the chassis from ripping at the hinge pin.

 

[Velodromed]

Issue with that solid bar is all the frontal shock will be transfered to the rear. The flex of the front will be transfered to the rear. So in a heavy nose crash the rear is going to break. Saw countless of people on facebook and other groups being conpletely confused on how did the rear off the truck snap off after a frontal colision.

They were all running a solid aftermarket chassis brace. Installing a center metal reinforcement on the middle will make the car more fragile because it restricts flexibility of the chassis The chassis will break either on the middle of the front gearbox or in the rear where the power module connects. The 6s metal chassis flexes a lot without you knowing making it a solid piece like a 7075 bathtub one is a receipt for complete disaster. Theres a reason nobody now buys those or make those kind of chassis. The solution to the v2 chassis issues can easily be dealth with by adding preload to the center chassi brace, changing the hinge pins for longer ones and upgrade the hinge pin braket to prevent the chassis from ripping at the hinge pin.

I just need something to zip tie my wires to

 

[Velodromed]

Man…my shop is overwhelmed lol. The rear differential froze up about a week ago on old Yeller, the new 4S differential. I have a CNC diff that I’d built a couple years ago up ftont. I should’ve put the CNC one out back, but forgot. So I figured that the gears had stripped down on the new, sintered metal diff, but when opened it up everything was fine. So I pulled the differential apart and that stock little bitty tiny bearing had exploded, chunks of it grinding up the gears. I hate those and try to replace them with a TDR bearing whenever I get a new differential, but I had forgotten on this one. I guess when it completely locked up it also destroyed the spur hub differential connection. Just shredded it. But the ring and input gears were fine a at least and I have numerous sets of inside gears. It was an easy fix at least.

Then I realize that the chassis had completely cracked across the rear diff area. The m2c brace had done a nice job in holding it together. Actually, it was pretty much the only thing holding it together. I had a new chassis so swapped it out. Sitting on the fence about play bars. I think I’ll skip out on the back so I can run longer screws to secure there wheelie bar. Or perhaps a pull out an old T-bone wheeli bar that I have that’s a good shape. Those are kind of cool put it together well.

I’d done some extensive experimenting earlier this year with using liquid gasket while installing the differential. I really does helps. The diff areas stay so much cleaner and grease doesn’t turn to ‘paste’. I’m definitely doing this with the car as I put it back together.

Thinking about the motor. I love the 4068, motor that I have in my for vorteks. I had double ordered by accident, so I have an extra one. Think I’ll throw it on for fun. For the Servo, I’m going to put an Amazon 35 KG special. The one everybody loves. I bought a super heavy kimbrough servo saver. One of the chunky looking ones they have. Gonna have to do a good amount of trimming across half of it. Hope that works well with the alloy bellcrank that’s been doing a good job this last year. If I don’t like, I’m going to put a solid connection between a Servo and link.. See how long the servo lasts with that.

I also got a new body. The same one because it’s proven to be incredibly tough. It’s a Jconcepts. I’ll pull out my air brush and try to make it look at least halfway decent. I’ll cut the body different also to accommodate for the 4s towers.Think I’ll stick with the beat up Yeller desert racer theme. I’ll hook it up to my newish radiolink transmitter also. Starting to get used to it with my 4s vorteks.

We’re on vacation for a bit. Chillin in Washington state making sure my wife daughters doing ok during visitation with her father. But when I’m back I’ll finish putting the basket case back together.

I’m wondering what other people do for tires with the 4s line. The stock aren’t so bad… sometimes I just wish they were a little bit shorter, a half inch or. More drifty I guess. I’ve looked at the skeeter tires and heard they could be good. Any thoughts? If anybody has any suggestions, let me know.

 

[Surchaufeur]

Man…my shop is overwhelmed lol. The rear differential froze up about a week ago on old Yeller, the new 4S differential. I have a CNC diff that I’d built a couple years ago up ftont. I should’ve put the CNC one out back, but forgot. So I figured that the gears had stripped down on the new, sintered metal diff, but when opened it up everything was fine. So I pulled the differential apart and that stock little bitty tiny bearing had exploded, chunks of it grinding up the gears. I hate those and try to replace them with a TDR bearing whenever I get a new differential, but I had forgotten on this one. I guess when it completely locked up it also destroyed the spur hub differential connection. Just shredded it. But the ring and input gears were fine a at least and I have numerous sets of inside gears. It was an easy fix at least.

Then I realize that the chassis had completely cracked across the rear diff area. The m2c brace had done a nice job in holding it together. Actually, it was pretty much the only thing holding it together. I had a new chassis so swapped it out. Sitting on the fence about play bars. I think I’ll skip out on the back so I can run longer screws to secure there wheelie bar. Or perhaps a pull out an old T-bone wheeli bar that I have that’s a good shape. Those are kind of cool put it together well.

I’d done some extensive experimenting earlier this year with using liquid gasket while installing the differential. I really does helps. The diff areas stay so much cleaner and grease doesn’t turn to ‘paste’. I’m definitely doing this with the car as I put it back together.

Thinking about the motor. I love the 4068, motor that I have in my for vorteks. I had double ordered by accident, so I have an extra one. Think I’ll throw it on for fun. For the Servo, I’m going to put an Amazon 35 KG special. The one everybody loves. I bought a super heavy kimbrough servo saver. One of the chunky looking ones they have. Gonna have to do a good amount of trimming across half of it. Hope that works well with the alloy bellcrank that’s been doing a good job this last year. If I don’t like, I’m going to put a solid connection between a Servo and link.. See how long the servo lasts with that.

I also got a new body. The same one because it’s proven to be incredibly tough. It’s a Jconcepts. I’ll pull out my air brush and try to make it look at least halfway decent. I’ll cut the body different also to accommodate for the 4s towers.Think I’ll stick with the beat up Yeller desert racer theme. I’ll hook it up to my newish radiolink transmitter also. Starting to get used to it with my 4s vorteks.

We’re on vacation for a bit. Chillin in Washington state making sure my wife daughters doing ok during visitation with her father. But when I’m back I’ll finish putting the basket case back together.

I’m wondering what other people do for tires with the 4s line. The stock aren’t so bad… sometimes I just wish they were a little bit shorter, a half inch or. More drifty I guess. I’ve looked at the skeeter tires and heard they could be good. Any thoughts? If anybody has any suggestions, let me know.

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I had that tiny bearing for since i got my v1. It was 5-6 years old. Idk how yo7 make those things explode

 

[Velodromed]

I had that tiny bearing for since i got my v1. It was 5-6 years old. Idk how yo7 make those things explode

I’m good like that It was one of the new, sintered V2 differentials. I haven’t found them to be as solid as the CNC differentials.