Kraton Ackerman screw loosening?

[PrerunninF150]

The passenger side ackerman screw loosens after every run and I am tired of taking the upper arm off every time just to tighten it. It screws into plastic so thread lock is out of the picture. Has anybody else ran into this problem and/or have a solution? Thank you.

 

[Senton_Prime]

The passenger side ackerman screw loosens after every run and I am tired of taking the upper arm off every time just to tighten it. It screws into plastic so thread lock is out of the picture. Has anybody else ran into this problem and/or have a solution? Thank you.

Tell em about the o-rings @K-BASH !!

 

[K-BASH]

Tell em about the o-rings @K-BASH !!

Rubber o-ring between anything to tighten up suspension an also use as lock washer on this application

 

[PrerunninF150]

Thanks for the speedy replies I will give this a shot and report back after my next run.

 

[SrC]

The passenger side ackerman screw loosens after every run and I am tired of taking the upper arm off every time just to tighten it. It screws into plastic so thread lock is out of the picture. Has anybody else ran into this problem and/or have a solution? Thank you.

Some have actually had luck with threadlocker and plastic as a Last ditch effort to keep rolling. The plastic is just worn out at this point.
Yes, TL is Not recommended for plastic and in this application being a moving part/rotating screw.
I have used a drop of CA in a pinch. Also an alternative. As well as ShooGoo/ E6000. Better IMHO. A tiny drop carefully placed on the threads of both the Ackerman plate and screw. I've had good results. Needs to cure well. Then order new parts in the mean time.
Honestly, you just need to replace the worn part(s).
To do it right.

 

[Diem Turner]

Who needs TL? Just cross thread that screw intentionally....problem solved.

 

[KnowAir]

The passenger side ackerman screw loosens after every run and I am tired of taking the upper arm off every time just to tighten it. It screws into plastic so thread lock is out of the picture. Has anybody else ran into this problem and/or have a solution? Thank you.

Are you referring to the screws that secure the rack to the steering arms? There's a nylon insert locknut on the bottom side of the steering arm.. it's recessed into the arm. What's likely happening is either the nut is slipping in the arm, preventing it from tightening properly, or, the screw is too short and not fully threaded into the nylon portion of the locknut.
I have fought this battle myself..lost that darned "step screw" twice!! Can't believe I actually found it on the ground both times!!
Also, those flat washers are paramount to ensuring the screw doesn't back out.. make sure you haven't lost them.. like I did

 

[DLK83]

Who needs TL? Just cross thread that screw intentionally....problem solved.

Cross thread is better than no thread!!

 

[Johnny b]

Right tighty...lefty loosey. Hope this helps

 

[Diem Turner]

Cross thread is better than no thread!!

Wise words. That's what my grandmother told me when I was two and a half and it's as true today as it was back then.

 

[Hammer Down]

Wise words. That's what my grandmother told me when I was two and a half and it's as true today as it was back then.

Once knew a guy that could remember when he was 2…
I’m lucky if I can remember how to tie my shoes.

 

[PrerunninF150]

Are you referring to the screws that secure the rack to the steering arms? There's a nylon insert locknut on the bottom side of the steering arm.. it's recessed into the arm. What's likely happening is either the nut is slipping in the arm, preventing it from tightening properly, or, the screw is too short and not fully threaded into the nylon portion of the locknut.
I have fought this battle myself..lost that darned "step screw" twice!! Can't believe I actually found it on the ground both times!!
Also, those flat washers are paramount to ensuring the screw doesn't back out.. make sure you haven't lost them.. like I did

Yes those screws. Does that washer go between the steering arm and the rack or the screw head and the top of the rack? I may be missing those. I am not aware of a nylon locknut in the steering arm. I will disassemble tonight and give it a closer look.

 

[Diem Turner]

Once knew a guy that could remember when he was 2…
I’m lucky if I can remember how to tie my shoes.

I have a few memories from around the age of 2. Not like full motion video, just a few images. We were living in Spain at the time.

Yes those screws. Does that washer go between the steering arm and the rack or the screw head and the top of the rack? I may be missing those. I am not aware of a nylon locknut in the steering arm. I will disassemble tonight and give it a closer look.

If memory serves, that washer goes on the raised ends of the bellcrank assemblies where they meet up with the Ackerman plate. Pretty sure anyways.

 

[SrC]

Are you referring to the screws that secure the rack to the steering arms? There's a nylon insert locknut on the bottom side of the steering arm.. it's recessed into the arm. What's likely happening is either the nut is slipping in the arm, preventing it from tightening properly, or, the screw is too short and not fully threaded into the nylon portion of the locknut.
I have fought this battle myself..lost that darned "step screw" twice!! Can't believe I actually found it on the ground both times!!
Also, those flat washers are paramount to ensuring the screw doesn't back out.. make sure you haven't lost them.. like I did

I also thought he was talking about a 4x4 line issue myself. Not a 6s rig.
The 6s rigs do have 2 metal Nylock nuts backing the 2 Stepped Ackerman Plate pivot screws. I use Blue TL on them. Because they can still looosen up.
Nylocks nuts can still strip out as well.
Has happened to my rear wing mount button screws before. And are the same size Nylock Nuts.
But that Wing gets much abuse and the nut's threads can strip.

 

[KnowAir]

I also thought he was talking about a 4x4 line issue myself. Not a 6s rig.
The 6s rigs do have 2 metal Nylock nuts backing the 2 Stepped Ackerman Plate pivot screws. I use Blue TL on them. Because they can still looosen up.
Nylocks nuts can still strip out as well.
Has happened to my rear wing mount button screws before. And are the same size Nylock Nuts.
But that Wing gets much abuse and the nut's threads can strip.

Yep, the nylon loosens up a bit everytime it's installed and removed..eventually they don't "lock" anymore..
Also, good point, I assumed 6s.. sorry if I was off here✌
The flat washer goes between the steer plate and steering arm. I just looked at a Typhon 6s that I know has not been apart yet..
You can definitely use loctite here if you want, but use very sparingly. You don't want the step screws binding with anything.

 

[SrC]

Yeah they can walk out. Blue TL, I always use it for years now, right out the box with any 6s rig. Lost my steering one time out bashing. Lost the $Step Screw$ and all. Sucked. Was my first Arrma, an 6s OC. We all been there. Hopefully just one time, then you figure it out. I Blue TL every single Nylock nut. Shock standoffs, Rear hub upper links etc. Any metal on metal fastening. A dab will do ya. Let cure for 24 hours before running.
With Stepped screws, Put TL into the Nuts' threads only, and not on the screw, so no TL will get onto it. The screw must rotate freely in the Ackerman plate. TL there messes it all up. I use a tiny drop of grease on the stepped screws' shaft and the washers. Syn lube. Don't over tighten it. Just snug with Blue TL. It is easy to overtighten it. The Washer gouges out and it binds easily.
This area also causes much of the Steering slop because of the hard ST rotating wear. Sloppy Ackerman sucks. FWIW, when replacing the Ackerman plate, The TLRT Ackerman Plate variant is the best. (skipping the EXB version) Short of going to M2C and BQ. TLRT has more provisions for Ackerman Tweaking. (more holes) The stocker always bends if you just sneeze at them. Then you find the rig driving with extreme Toe out. Wondering why.
Just takes one minor hit. Ackerman plate is often overlooked, in a place you cant see, and needs to have upgraded BB's instead of Brass bushings, etc. when you are in there. Your Servo will thank you.

Edited.