On another post it was mentioned that GPM & Hot racing Diff housings did not have a steel insert at output cup hole and prone to premature wearing out
Ok, lets fix that and also add even more toughness !!
Now having a small machine shop helps no doubt, but REASON for post is to show what can be done if really wanting / needing a tougher center differential and able to repair or retrofit any Diff housings
In the lathe took a .250" reamer to the bearing side of housing going inward .225" ( This is shy of passing threw leaving the o-ring shoulder on inside undisturbed )
Next using PEEK ( An aerospace plastic for bearings & high wear applications ) making a small stub that was @ .002" oversize and pressed it in.
Next drilled it in the lathe with a .195" drill making a hole threw it where a drive cup just slips in. Nice fit !!
*Now you could do this with steel ( not recommended ) Bearing bronze etc ...
Checking hardness of a spur wheel decided it too could be reamed as well. Same type deal as housing.
Once assembled stretch a few o-rings over the cups that has a smaller one on first resting up against bearing inner race NOT TOUCHING seal, and 1 or 2 larger ones that has them under slight squish. This SEALS the drive cup output shafts keeping dirt & debris out and lube in.
* Original post on o-ring sealing here: Seal them outputs !
END RESULT is that the outputs cups have near zero run out / wobble and now having an actual bearing material rather than steel on steel should dang near last indefinitely.
Assembled 2 diffs with shim kits & fresh bearings .... Now have 3 diffs in total set up as such with Light / Medium / Heavy fluids.
Hope this helps or is of some use to you more serious bashers & hobbyists.
Scott
AKA: Big Kid
Ok, lets fix that and also add even more toughness !!
Now having a small machine shop helps no doubt, but REASON for post is to show what can be done if really wanting / needing a tougher center differential and able to repair or retrofit any Diff housings
In the lathe took a .250" reamer to the bearing side of housing going inward .225" ( This is shy of passing threw leaving the o-ring shoulder on inside undisturbed )
Next using PEEK ( An aerospace plastic for bearings & high wear applications ) making a small stub that was @ .002" oversize and pressed it in.
Next drilled it in the lathe with a .195" drill making a hole threw it where a drive cup just slips in. Nice fit !!
*Now you could do this with steel ( not recommended ) Bearing bronze etc ...
Checking hardness of a spur wheel decided it too could be reamed as well. Same type deal as housing.
Once assembled stretch a few o-rings over the cups that has a smaller one on first resting up against bearing inner race NOT TOUCHING seal, and 1 or 2 larger ones that has them under slight squish. This SEALS the drive cup output shafts keeping dirt & debris out and lube in.
* Original post on o-ring sealing here: Seal them outputs !
END RESULT is that the outputs cups have near zero run out / wobble and now having an actual bearing material rather than steel on steel should dang near last indefinitely.
Assembled 2 diffs with shim kits & fresh bearings .... Now have 3 diffs in total set up as such with Light / Medium / Heavy fluids.
Hope this helps or is of some use to you more serious bashers & hobbyists.
Scott
AKA: Big Kid
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