Anyone interested in the new Redcat KAIJU MT 1/8

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I'm pretty sure what's causing the drive shaft cup to split is too much down travel of the suspension arm when the arm flexes. The solution seems to be to move the lower shock ball end further out (closer to the wheels) on the lower suspension arms. This will reduce the down travel of the suspension arm.
 
I'm pretty sure what's causing the drive shaft cup to split is too much down travel of the suspension arm when the arm flexes. The solution seems to be to move the lower shock ball end further out (closer to the wheels) on the lower suspension arms. This will reduce the down travel of the suspension arm.
I did. There was less damage, but there is still damage towards the outer end of the cup (the side closer to the wheels). I bent the lip back (yeah, it created a little lip on the outer end) and installed a bearing around the cup. I'll see if it slows down the damage that has been done.
 
I've watched many videos. You are not alone. I'm thinking 4S is more practical for this rig. Too much casted pot metal in the drivetrain.
Truck does well on 4S (from the vids I've seen) but I prefer 6S. As far as the rest of the drive train, it looks on par with the Arrma 6S trucks.
 
For some reason it's only the left front drive cup giving me trouble on both Kaijus. I installed the bearing to see if it helps. Also I'm on my second rear body mount. It's too thin. Same goes for the upper control arms. You can see the small crack that developed right next to the bearing that I installed
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I've watched many videos. You are not alone. I'm thinking 4S is more practical for this rig. Too much casted pot metal in the drivetrain.
My damaged drive cups have been done while running 4s on both Kaijus.
 
Moving the shock to the lowest position does stop the CVA rod from hitting the bottom of the cup when the truck lifts off but it does nothing for the top of the cup when the truck come crashing down to earth. Bump stops on the shock rods may be in order. Back in the day I buggy raced, I wrapped gorilla tape around the rod. I still have the first wrap intact on my Bushmaster that I raced for years. Just heat up the wrap a little & it'll outlast the truck.
 
Moving the shock to the lowest position does stop the CVA rod from hitting the bottom of the cup when the truck lifts off but it does nothing for the top of the cup when the truck come crashing down to earth. Bump stops on the shock rods may be in order. Back in the day I buggy raced, I wrapped gorilla tape around the rod. I still have the first wrap intact on my Bushmaster that I raced for years. Just heat up the wrap a little & it'll outlast the truck.
So is this going to keep happening? I have my spares coming tomorrow. Should I just not jump it?
 
So is this going to keep happening? I have my spares coming tomorrow. Should I just not jump it?
I'll try the lowest hole & rod bump stop first. I bought 2 sets of replacement cups if that doesn't work. I'll save the heat treating for a last resort since I really don't think it'll help much if the suspension is flexing & bottoming out too much.
 
So here is how I broke the drive cup.

This is like one of those dreaded single wheel/nose plant combos I've been hearing about :LOL: I haven't had many of them but NO car I had ever survived one until I started making huge flexible bumpers. That solved the landing on the wing/wheelie bar too. I still can't do anything about the landing completely on a single wheel or landing upside down. The prior have ended so much of my fun it isn't even funny. The latter is a coin flip, usually survivable. It usually looks worse than it is until you slow it down & see all the awkward arm flexing. It bent the wrong way, forcing the CVA ball deeper into the cup until it had nowhere else to go. Just like what happened with mine & the tree but mine fell vertically on its nose. No power at all, I could of caught it (or batted it away :ROFLMAO:) if I was under it.
 
I put a piece of foam with gorilla tape where the rear of the body sits since I'm getting tired of breaking the flimsy body mount (on my second one). The outer parts of the mount have almost no support and it's flimsy, so on bad landings, the weight of the vehicle plows through there I'm assuming.
20200323_081321.jpg
 
I've always said that I've seen more "I broke my Outcast/Notorious" posts than any other truck. It's because they are tough to stunt. And when I say tough to stunt I mean tough to stunt successfully. Sure they are easy to flip, but landing on the wheels can be tough because of how fast they can rotate. Simple corrections in the air really affect the truck.

I think the Kaiju suffers from the same problem. It's even worse because it is even more twitchy. It's so easy to get out of shape with this little Tasmanian devil ?
 
I take it that there is no droop adjustment at the inner arms/chassis. If so, maybe internal shock shaft spacing will accommodate proper droop?? Just an idea.:cool:
 
Adjusting droop so the dog bone pins stay recessed inward more on these cups may help?? Has anyone attempted to call RC for support on this?
 
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So whats the bottom line on one of these?

Buy one but go easy on it and buy spare diff cups?
Yeah, if you are going to buy it, get the extra parts. I've broken both of mine because of my crazy driving and small ramps mostly. Even my Arrmas suffer similar fates honestly. I'm talking about constant bad landings and endless tumbles on grass and dirt. You will probably break less, if you nail the landings more often than me and my almost 4yr old son. The value is absolutely there for $399, or less like someone mentioned here on the forum. So I would say go for it.
 
I own none of those.

Then I would seriously think about getting it. It is a short wheelbase and it gets bounced around over rocky terrain. It does handle pretty well though with minimal traction rolls. Truck is nuts on 6S!

Here is the website for the standard parts:
https://www.redcatracing.com/collec...ers[custom_fields.Current_Vehicles][0]= Kaiju

This is what I ordered as spares:

RER12435 - Front gearbox set
RER12436 - Rear gearbox set
RER12482 - Complete center diff w/gear (assembled)
RER12426 - CV Drive Shaft (2 pcs)
RER12442 - Rear lower suspension arm set
RER12441 - Front lower suspension arm set
RER12420 - Drive cup w/pins (2 pcs) Quantity 2
RER12455 - Body mount set Quantity 2

The following are out of stock, but I will buy them when they are available:

RER12457 - Front upper arm set
RER12458 - Rear upper arm set
RER12444 - 48T spur gear
 
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