Anyone interested in the new Redcat KAIJU MT 1/8

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The Rival MT8 fixed most of the Kaiju issues (outdrives, spur, servo horn, motor plate, bumper, body posts, HCG chassis) but introduced some new ones (radio, lower arms) and didn’t fix one (upper links).
 
Nothing wrong with having other RC vehicles that are not arrma. As long as we keep the addiction going and adding more addicts to it! Even though they were way overpriced, I really do like my xmaxx 8s and maxx 4s.

My LHS will have them in next week, but I don't like being one of the first to buy a new rc model until I see what has to be upgraded, how durable they are, how much $ does it cost to do the upgrades, the ease of working on it, etc.
my lhs has the orginal maxx 4s for 449.99 amazing deal.
I totally get it. I too have had my share of heartburn from Redcat..I have a couple in the garage serving as mouse homes right now, LOL. I know I'll never bother with them, but won't throw em away..guess I'm a hoarder🤣🤣🍻

IMO, maxx is the winner. Much more support, better overall quality and longevity. And I don't even like TRX 🤣🤣
Also, the maxx is tough. Tougher than I would've expected.
true, arrmas are made for sending to the moon after $600 of upgrades, traxxas though is tougher stock. I don't like the trx plugs: expensive batteries and theyre uncompatible with other brands.
 
Not a car for me honestly so many things who are weak imo. The longer kaiju exposed more issues
Another way of saying this is, which is better, an arrma granite or a kaiju? (both the same price today)
I would think hands down the kaiju would be the better buy, but that just an "imo".
Both are fine representations of rigs from opposite ends of the hobby spectrum I suppose..
I think that's a good way of putting it. Extreme bashability with extreme price, vs extreme value overall for what you get.
 
The Rival MT8 fixed most of the Kaiju issues (outdrives, spur, servo horn, motor plate, bumper, body posts, HCG chassis) but introduced some new ones (radio, lower arms) and didn’t fix one (upper links).
Sounds right on based on what you and others have said. Unfortunate thing about the Rival is it will likely have a short lifespan like the kaiju..for me, that's a bummer since I never get rid of rc's.
my lhs has the orginal maxx 4s for 449.99 amazing deal.

true, arrmas are made for sending to the moon after $600 of upgrades, traxxas though is tougher stock. I don't like the trx plugs: expensive batteries and theyre uncompatible with other brands.
Arrma or TRX will both need their share of upgrades to withstand lunar launches. That's one thing that's been made quite clear by Duperbash and RCdude 81.. I can appreciate rigs from both camps. I just happen to be a price driven buyer who doesn't launch at the moon, so I choose Arrma.. or Redcat, TC..
 
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I also
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have both, Maxx V2 handles like a cinder block although tough and fun. Kaiju also fun truck but animal on 6S, I run it on 4S now. For the sale price go for it if on the fence. Glad I got mine, just another addition to the family.
 
How would you compare this to the Outcast 6s that is also on sale for $480 (or Kraton 6s that was recently $440)?

I also agree when an old Redcat goes out of production parts become hard to find. It also concerns me a little that their engineers were looking into the pointed out weaknesses 2 years ago on this thread but there doesn't seem to be much action on improving them.
 
How would you compare this to the Outcast 6s that is also on sale for $480 (or Kraton 6s that was recently $440)?

I also agree when an old Redcat goes out of production parts become hard to find. It also concerns me a little that their engineers were looking into the pointed out weaknesses 2 years ago on this thread but there doesn't seem to be much action on improving them.

The EXT is their way to fix the weaknesses of the original. I have no idea if they did because I don't have an EXT. The Rival MT8 is also basically the V2 for the original Kaiju's problems.


 
Another way of saying this is, which is better, an arrma granite or a kaiju? (both the same price today)
I would think hands down the kaiju would be the better buy, but that just an "imo".

I think that's a good way of putting it. Extreme bashability with extreme price, vs extreme value overall for what you get.
I don't like the 3s line lol
im going to see im waiting for rc guy garage to make run videos of the k4s
 
Well shoot... I just pulled the trigger. Wish me luck! haha

I'm getting some cheapo 12x18x4 bearings to tap over the diff cups. @Armarookie43 I think you had used the powerhobby heatsink right (and/or yeah racing heatsink, basically the same thing) right? If so, did anything require mods to fit on the kaiju motor? Any other small things to buy up front??? :D
Also including @razorrc and @KnowAir (i think) since i know you have one too!
 
Well shoot... I just pulled the trigger. Wish me luck! haha

I'm getting some cheapo 12x18x4 bearings to tap over the diff cups. @Armarookie43 I think you had used the powerhobby heatsink right (and/or yeah racing heatsink, basically the same thing) right? If so, did anything require mods to fit on the kaiju motor? Any other small things to buy up front??? :D
Also including @razorrc and @KnowAir (i think) since i know you have one too!
 
Well shoot... I just pulled the trigger. Wish me luck! haha

I'm getting some cheapo 12x18x4 bearings to tap over the diff cups. @Armarookie43 I think you had used the powerhobby heatsink right (and/or yeah racing heatsink, basically the same thing) right? If so, did anything require mods to fit on the kaiju motor? Any other small things to buy up front??? :D
Also including @razorrc and @KnowAir (i think) since i know you have one too!
I'd say the upper arms are the weakest part of the truck, 5mm 1/8 camber links from any quality rc brand will help dramatically. There's also the mojave lower arms that's a bit more involved but I feel they're worth it. Stock lower kaiju arms are really flexible which I believe contributes to the rigid upper arm failures.
If you plan to run 6s, the bearings over the outdrives is definitely a good idea.
Also the body mounts could use some upgrading, on 6s, it's inevitable the kaiju will end up on its lid quite a bit. I used aluminum angle with some Losi posts with great success.
That idea came from @Megasty . He has some nice mods for the kaiju as well.
Congrats, it's a great buy at that price IMO 👍
 
I'd say the upper arms are the weakest part of the truck, 5mm 1/8 camber links from any quality rc brand will help dramatically. There's also the mojave lower arms that's a bit more involved but I feel they're worth it. Stock lower kaiju arms are really flexible which I believe contributes to the rigid upper arm failures.
If you plan to run 6s, the bearings over the outdrives is definitely a good idea.
Also the body mounts could use some upgrading, on 6s, it's inevitable the kaiju will end up on its lid quite a bit. I used aluminum angle with some Losi posts with great success.
That idea came from @Megasty . He has some nice mods for the kaiju as well.
Congrats, it's a great buy at that price IMO 👍
It seemed like a screaming deal for a 4s truck, so that's definitely why i jumped on it. I've read through this whole thread (all 1500+ posts!) over two times before, so I felt prepped to know at least what the primary weaknesses were and anticipate that it will happen. Parts seem to be in stock and have been for a bit, so i'll probably just roll with it and replace/upgrade/DIY as things break!

Did you swap out to just 5mm turnbuckles, or did you use the full links (rod end and all)?
 
It seemed like a screaming deal for a 4s truck, so that's definitely why i jumped on it. I've read through this whole thread (all 1500+ posts!) over two times before, so I felt prepped to know at least what the primary weaknesses were and anticipate that it will happen. Parts seem to be in stock and have been for a bit, so i'll probably just roll with it and replace/upgrade/DIY as things break!

Did you swap out to just 5mm turnbuckles, or did you use the full links (rod end and all)?
I swapped the upper arms for links. Shortened the inner hinge pins and secure the pins in place with a 4mm screw and sway bar holding pieces I had laying around..my theory was tha since the lower arms flex so much and upper arms flex so little that having a link with pivot balls at each end might be able to move with the lowers when they flex. I think it helps. But I also have mojave lower arms on it now..they don't flex nearly as much as stock. I'm guessing the inner hinge pins would pull out before the mojave arms give up..another potential problem I guess. Traded one for another..🤣🤣
 
Well shoot... I just pulled the trigger. Wish me luck! haha

I'm getting some cheapo 12x18x4 bearings to tap over the diff cups. @Armarookie43 I think you had used the powerhobby heatsink right (and/or yeah racing heatsink, basically the same thing) right? If so, did anything require mods to fit on the kaiju motor? Any other small things to buy up front??? :D
Also including @razorrc and @KnowAir (i think) since i know you have one too!
Yeah the powerhobby heatsink will work. You just have to have it off center a bit for it to work. It didn't take much effort though and it keeps your motor cooler when running 6s. Have a fun!
I would also lower the body posts a much as you can. I've noticed that helps the body posts break less during crashes and upside down landings
 
Yeah the powerhobby heatsink will work. You just have to have it off center a bit for it to work. It didn't take much effort though and it keeps your motor cooler when running 6s. Have a fun!
I would also lower the body posts a much as you can. I've noticed that helps the body posts break less during crashes and upside down landings
Yup, I put the body posts as low as possible on all my rigs👍 I used a HW heatsink, had to cut and bend it, but works well.

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Yeah the powerhobby heatsink will work. You just have to have it off center a bit for it to work. It didn't take much effort though and it keeps your motor cooler when running 6s. Have a fun!
I would also lower the body posts a much as you can. I've noticed that helps the body posts break less during crashes and upside down landings
Good to know. I seem to remember something about moving shock position or lowering the suspension. I think it was to help prevent splitting diff cups. Is that still necessary? If i use the bearing mod (over top of the diff cups), will lowering the suspension be necessary in your opinion?
Yup, I put the body posts as low as possible on all my rigs👍 I used a HW heatsink, had to cut and bend it, but works well.

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Nice DIY's! I'm a sucker for that kind of stuff. I love making something at home that cheaper and better than some engineer got paid to design (it may just not look very good :D). Are those the extreme precision diff cup sleeves?
 
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