Kraton Arrma Kraton diff oils

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Its not really the oil number, but combination as a whole. I would go 20k in rear, 100k center, and 50k up front.

Remember power will go to where there is less resistance. So lighter fluid, thats where it goes. Its almost as running lock diff, will feel like a rear wheel drive car and kill the 4wd advantage.

** Exactly about the 4S, I run 4 and 5 (esc set to nimh) and tracking w my watch chrono, and if you pay good attention you will know, because as the battery wears out it will be more difficult for the truck to wheelie and go over jumps, and quick blips on the throttle will not be as responsive.

I got a 6s, and only once in a while to show off as you say or when going jumping as it as much more torque, but I try not to do long high speed passes because it will destroy the tires. Also, the tear and wear on the pinion is almost immediate, small metal shavings can be seen in the chassis regardless how well the pinion to spur was set up.

I don't know why they don't have a plastic spur gear option. On my 5B its metal pinionto plastic spur and I have bashed that poor baja on a 30.5cc engine and still no broken parts. On my on-road 1/8th nitro setup is metal to plastic and unless the engine moves, the spur gears hold fine, but well its just some silly forum venting... lol
I am assuming that metal to plastic meshes better and is more durable?

I am assuming that metal to plastic meshes better and is more durable?
I will buy the weight of oils you have recommended. It sounds logical the way you put it thank you very much for the advice as i am new to the hobby

I am assuming that metal to plastic meshes better and is more durable?


I will buy the weight of oils you have recommended. It sounds logical the way you put it thank you very much for the advice as i am new to the hobby
Sorry for the million questions but will 100k in the rear keep it from doing wheelies as much. I like wheelies but i don't have a wheelie bar and i end up destroying the body

I am assuming that metal to plastic meshes better and is more durable?


I will buy the weight of oils you have recommended. It sounds logical the way you put it thank you very much for the advice as i am new to the hobby


Sorry for the million questions but will 100k in the rear keep it from doing wheelies as much. I like wheelies but i don't have a wheelie bar and i end up destroying the body
When it flips backwards that is
 
don't use 100k in the rear.

Heaviest in center, heavier in front, lighter in rear.

The oil is a headstart, you may find you need heavier, or lighter all across depending on your driving style.
For the wheelie, gear to more teeth, do check your motor temps, 160F and never 200, will kill the magnets in it.
Ebay sells a rear bumper, looks a lot like the aftermarket sold for the front, and kind of helps as a wheelie bar.
 
I'm running 50,100,7. Doing good so far. Only ran it on 4s and it's not bad for bashing lol.
 
great info guys. I just bought a Kraton and was wondering why everyone adjusts diff oil. Now I understand. Thanks!
 
I recently bought a kraton, and looking at diff oils for when going through the truck. it looks like in the manual for my v3 2018, it's 10k cst all around? the other large trucks are 10k/100k/10k(talion,outcast). Im thinking of doing 50/100/10.
 
That sounds like a good place for me to start. Thanks!

Looks like my front tires are about to fly off at high speed!!

Also, I read about duct taping the inside of tires to prevent ballooning. Anyone tried this with there arrma with success? Pitfalls?
 
i'd love to know this as well
I know it's old, but buggies typically run the 7k front, 10k center and 3k rear and the truggies/monster trucks run diff fluids in the 100k and up range because the wheels and tires are so much heavier that it takes a much thicker fluid to keep the all spinning the same and to avoid "doffing out", which is when you see the front tires or one side balloon out like crazy because the fifa are too light.
 
Going to change my diff oils next week in the V4, I've read loads and watched plenty of @RC DUDE81,@Rich Duperbash vids for tips and advice..?

Decided on this setup, F 60k M 500k R 30k Associated Factory Team Silicone Diff Fluid.
Quite a few people say 50k in the front but I can't find any..?? do they even make 50k..??
 
Going to change my diff oils next week in the V4, I've read loads and watched plenty of @RC DUDE81,@Rich Duperbash vids for tips and advice..?

Decided on this setup, F 60k M 500k R 30k Associated Factory Team Silicone Diff Fluid.
Quite a few people say 50k in the front but I can't find any..?? do they even make 50k..??
The 50k I was using is Traxxas fluid I found at my LHS. 60k will work just fine! Especially in the Kraton.:)
 
Hello all I just ordered a Kraton V4, my first 1/8 and 4-wheel drive, and plan on running primarily in beach sand with rear paddles. What diff oil combination would you recommend?
 
I would start with 30K (F), 100K (C) & 15K (R). Generally, you want the center to have the highest weight differential oil, then the front is usually a little heavier than the rear. It's not an exact science so it's best to start with something and then you can fine tune it down the road.
 
I just went to 100k 500k 60k. I read somewhere here that they ran it. The shop thought I was crazy think I had 3 workers telling me I was stupid but I love how it handles. Doesn't turn quite as sharp but it just seems like it has more power because it wheelies on demand even at speed now. Time will tell how it lasts though fingers crossed I don't wreck anything
 
It is a good setup. Switch the center out for 1 million and it really wakes up the beast
Cheers lovestricken. The guys at the shop were laughing saying I'll strip the diff and all sorts of stuff but it's working awesome so far have to feather the throttle to keep the front down which is what I want ?
 
20k fr, 200k cntr, 60k rear. with Truggy Duratrax Ex-cons. This setup gives me all the steering I need. No complaints I could see upping the center to 500k for a try on next diff rebuild.
 
You are just about the sweet spot for steering there. Going straight to 500 will change it a lot. Let me know how it goes. Sounds like a good setup for the next build
 
20k fr, 200k cntr, 60k rear. with Truggy Duratrax Ex-cons. This setup gives me all the steering I need. No complaints I could see upping the center to 500k for a try on next diff rebuild.
Are you sure you didn't get those front and rear weights mixed up? Very unusual to run a thicker oil in the rear compared to the front.
 
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