Arrma O Rings are horrible

[turn2burn]

So I'v changed over to emulsion with bleeders and in doing so my o rings started to leak on my shocks. This is on a kraton 6S. But today I changed out the o rings with brand new ones and just from pushing the rods through I damaged the o rings. They are letting air in and weeping at the bottom. I tightened the black collar barley and pushed the rod through with oil on it and twisted the rod when pushing it through the body. All by the book.

Now I pump them up and they retract and have rebound. Air just keeps adding to the oil and when I bleed them more oil comes out.
I even used green slime. So I ordered 3 sets, another 20 up in smoke. Not to mention I need to get new oil as there are micro bubbles I can't get out, and another 10 bucks.

Its been a nightmare, I'v rebuilt shocks from other manufacturers but never seen anything as crappy as this. I suspect this is why I couldn't get the bladders to work.

Does anyone have any ideas? Should I go with GMP or Power Stroke? It seems pointless as other than the o rings these should be perfectly good shocks.

Whats funny is when I got my EXB one shock was leaking and I showed Horizon Hobbies they sent me a whole set for the truck. So it must be a known issue.

Any ideas would be much appreciated.

 

[slick2500]

The lower cap goes on last. If your put it on before you put the rod through it puts pressure on oring and it will ruin the seal when you push the threads through it. That has nothing to do with Arrma it will happen to any shock.

 

[turn2burn]

Ah ha thank you very much. I knew there was something wrong, user error. To be extra safe I could even take the piston off and put the o rings on from the top of the shaft? I'v read a ton of people with leaky shocks here I just thought it was an issue. Maybe they did the same as I.

Is it true I have to use new oil?

 

[slick2500]

Ah ha thank you very much. I knew there was something wrong, user error. To be extra safe I could even take the piston off and put the o rings on from the top of the shaft? I'v read a ton of people with leaky shocks here I just thought it was an issue. Maybe they did the same as I.

Is it true I have to use new oil?

What I do is put the shaft through the hole in the shock body then add the orings and plastic retainer parts from there, that way there is zero pressure on the orings allowing them to easily slide over the threads without getting damaged, then put the cap on last.

The leaky shocks is either the old Mega 4x4 and 3s models or shocks that were assembled incorrectly at the factory.

If it still looks clear I reuse it but if you can no longer see through it you should probably change it out for some fresh oil. Shock oil isn't cheap no need to waste it if it still has life left to it.

 

[turn2burn]

Sweet you have no idea how much of a headache you solved for me, if only I new this earlier. Its like silicon wire how easily it breaks. I don't think I'v used silicon o rings before. I have MC2 pistons and got them so they just barely rotate so Ill do it the way you say. Thanks!

 

[Surchaufeur]

So I'v changed over to emulsion with bleeders and in doing so my o rings started to leak on my shocks. This is on a kraton 6S. But today I changed out the o rings with brand new ones and just from pushing the rods through I damaged the o rings. They are letting air in and weeping at the bottom. I tightened the black collar barley and pushed the rod through with oil on it and twisted the rod when pushing it through the body. All by the book.

Now I pump them up and they retract and have rebound. Air just keeps adding to the oil and when I bleed them more oil comes out.
I even used green slime. So I ordered 3 sets, another 20 up in smoke. Not to mention I need to get new oil as there are micro bubbles I can't get out, and another 10 bucks.

Its been a nightmare, I'v rebuilt shocks from other manufacturers but never seen anything as crappy as this. I suspect this is why I couldn't get the bladders to work.

Does anyone have any ideas? Should I go with GMP or Power Stroke? It seems pointless as other than the o rings these should be perfectly good shocks.

Whats funny is when I got my EXB one shock was leaking and I showed Horizon Hobbies they sent me a whole set for the truck. So it must be a known issue.

Any ideas would be much appreciated.

Still running 2 year old o rings. Replaced a few on the diffs thats about it
I always put the orings trought the shaft With its piston on lube the shaft and i slide the oring/spacer/oring/little retainer/endcap who i use to compress the whole thing inside. If you put the cartridge first and then push the shaft trought you risk damaging the orings

 

[turn2burn]

Hum I supposed I need to reliable this post arrma o rings great user error. Cool I will do what you guys say thanks.

 

[turn2burn]

OK new o rings and still same problem air getting in. Its the lower shock support I think as shock shaft wobbles. I installed support the wrong way (didnt realize different thickness on either side) and its no longer a centered hole. This is the lowest washer like thing that sits inside the black collar on bottom of shaft.

 

[slick2500]

OK new o rings and still same problem air getting in. Its the lower shock support I think as shock shaft wobbles. I installed support the wrong way (didnt realize different thickness on either side) and its no longer a centered hole. This is the lowest washer like thing that sits inside the black collar on bottom of shaft.

Oh those can get hogged out over time, sounds like it's time to replace them.

 

[turn2burn]

These are brand new practically, 10 runs maybe at most. Theres a gap between the shaft and the lower support and they wiggle, is that where the leak is coming from?

 

[SrC]

The lower cap goes on last. If your put it on before you put the rod through it puts pressure on oring and it will ruin the seal when you push the threads through it. That has nothing to do with Arrma it will happen to any shock.

True dat.
Get new o-rings , use TA Green Slime. If you don't know what that is, then you need to learn more about shocks.
I assemble my bottom cartridge spacers/ o-rings in reverse by assembling all parts onto the shaft first, sliding the well lubed o-rings and cartridge (Green Slime) over the piston side of the shaft. Not the threaded side, like all the YT videos show how to do it. Things can be hit or miss this way. My way offers much insurance against Torn O-rings. Only then screw on the Bottom cartridge end cap snug. Do not over tighten or even use a wrench or pliers to do it. Shock body lower cap and threads should be clean of any oil, so the cap stays in place and won't walk out with use.
O-rings are generally disposable items and easily damaged when the shaft's threads cut into the o-rings. The 6s shocks are superb. Rarely have I had any leaks with them. You won't find a better fitting O-ring than the stockers IMHO. The TLRT Typhon X-rings are even a better option. But need the whole TLRT Shock Delrin Bottom cartridge along with it. Improperly bled Emulsion shock setups, can cause undue undue hydraulic pressure and oil will even blow past the o-rings. Even a new perfect o-ring can leak like this.

 

[slick2500]

These are brand new practically, 10 runs maybe at most. Theres a gap between the shaft and the lower support and they wiggle, is that where the leak is coming from?

Depends on how hard you are on them honestly. Have you broken any rod ends or shock mounts? If you have those take damage as well. Those will usually deform before you bend a shock shock, but if you bend a shaft those will almost always be done for as well.

True dat.
Get new o-rings , use TA Green Slime. If you don't know what that is, then you need to learn more about shocks.
I assemble my bottom cartridge spacers/ o-rings in reverse by assembling all parts onto the shaft first, sliding the well lubed o-rings and cartridge (Green Slime) over the piston side of the shaft. Not the threaded side, like all the YT videos show how to do it. Things can be hit or miss this way. My way offers much insurance against Torn O-rings. Only then screw on the Bottom cartridge end cap snug. Do not over tighten or even use a wrench or pliers to do it. Shock body lower cap and threads should be clean of any oil, so the cap stays in place and won't walk out with use.
O-rings are generally disposable items and easily damaged when the shaft's threads cut into the o-rings. The 6s shocks are superb. Rarely have I had any leaks with them. You won't find a better fitting O-ring than the stockers IMHO. The TLRT Typhon X-rings are even a better option. But need the whole TLRT Shock Delrin Bottom cartridge along with it. Improperly bled Emulsion shock setups, can cause undue undue hydraulic pressure and oil will even blow past the o-rings. Even a new perfect o-ring can leak like this.

He said he used green slime in his original post.

 

[Surchaufeur]

You fill the shock full until 3mm from the top screw the cap in without compressing the shaft and you should have no air
If theres a bit of air its not a big deal. Its going to act like an emulsion shock almost. I have 2 yer old shocks with the same orings and stuff and no issues. Its normal to have a tiny bit of oil leak. But its extremely minimal
You remind me of myself. Ur thinking way too much

 

[turn2burn]

Thanks guys and SrC. That was what I was thinking insert o rings with piston off from that side so with your info Ill do it that way.
I'm a little worried about the lower support and the gap between it and the piston. I'm running MC2 pistons and they are making a noise and also noticed the anodizing is partially worn off the inside.
I didnt damage the lower support I think the gap came that way from the factory and might order new ones which sucks as I have to get the kit.
The upgraded o ring idea seems like a little too much for my pocket right now but good to know. I could just get Typhon shocks? GMP also makes some.

I bleed my shocks by letting them sit with oil flush to top. Then screw on my HR shock caps with bleeder screw off. Hand tighten then little with wrench. I actually thought this is where my leak might be coming from.
I then slowly press rod up until it can go no more. Put in bleeder screw then pump up 10 or so time and get 1/4 of rebound usually. Then I extend rod open bleeder and push up slowly. Bubbles come out when rod reaches top, then hold it there and put bleeder screw in. That should be good but then I get rebound and do it again and get retraction thats when I know I lost too much oil and air is getting in some how.

I do however tighten the lower collar by hand and then a nudge more with wrench, so Ill try not to do that.
Done a bunch of shocks before have no idea why I'm not getting these right.

 

[Surchaufeur]

Thanks guys and SrC. That was what I was thinking insert o rings with piston off from that side so with your info Ill do it that way.
I'm a little worried about the lower support and the gap between it and the piston. I'm running MC2 pistons and they are making a noise and also noticed the anodizing is partially worn off the inside.
I didnt damage the lower support I think the gap came that way from the factory and might order new ones which sucks as I have to get the kit.
The upgraded o ring idea seems like a little too much for my pocket right now but good to know. I could just get Typhon shocks? GMP also makes some.

I bleed my shocks by letting them sit with oil flush to top. Then screw on my HR shock caps with bleeder screw off. Hand tighten then little with wrench. I actually thought this is where my leak might be coming from.
I then slowly press rod up until it can go no more. Put in bleeder screw then pump up 10 or so time and get 1/4 of rebound usually. Then I extend rod open bleeder and push up slowly. Bubbles come out when rod reaches top, then hold it there and put bleeder screw in. That should be good but then I get rebound and do it again and get retraction thats when I know I lost too much oil and air is getting in some how.

I do however tighten the lower collar by hand and then a nudge more with wrench, so Ill try not to do that.
Done a bunch of shocks before have no idea why I'm not getting these right.

is you hot racing shock cap emulsion? Theres always going to have a bit of air at one point inside ur shock. I learned a tiny bit of air can be a good thing for jumping. Its easier to have a airless shock with a bladder style shock than a no bladder style shock.

 

[turn2burn]

Ya my HR is emulsion set up. My issue with the bladder was I couldn't get them to not rebound. What I'm thinking now is the lower supports were bad from the beginning. No jumping or anything, took it easy. The rods wobble like crazy my guess now is that in turn deforms the o rings and lets in air.
So more oil 2 washers basically (10 bucks for those) thinking I'v spent close to 100 dollars trying to fix these and maybe because of a faulty part.
I don't mind if there not dead I just couldn't get the bladders to match rebound. And thats how I set up my bladders Surch.

 

[Surchaufeur]

Ya my HR is emulsion set up. My issue with the bladder was I couldn't get them to not rebound. What I'm thinking now is the lower supports were bad from the beginning. No jumping or anything, took it easy. The rods wobble like crazy my guess now is that in turn deforms the o rings and lets in air.
So more oil 2 washers basically (10 bucks for those) thinking I'v spent close to 100 dollars trying to fix these and maybe because of a faulty part.
I don't mind if there not dead I just couldn't get the bladders to match rebound. And thats how I set up my bladders Surch.

Its normal for the shaft to wiggle quite a bit. You are overthinking it. And emulsion by design has to work with air.

 

[turn2burn]

Thanks, I did already see that. Im waiting on parts so I threw the stock bladder shocks in I had spares, and emulsion in front. Its really wasnt that bad but the rear wasnt that absorbing as the front.