Talion Arrma Tailon on 2S 7.4v 5200 mah 50C (100 burst) only..

[fishycomics]

As I watched a video, asked my question and will ask here at the Arrmaforums.com...

I run other rc models. a 3670 motor 2500KV 80-120 Amp Esc. The Arrma Tailon is a 2050KV and 180Amp.

So why are we saying that I must use only 4S or 6S set ups, and anything less then 30C will see pic 2 be an issue, where as. I am running a 4000 mah 30C rated one, 3500 mah 25C rated one. and no issues at all.

A) yes the battery gets heated to a degree,
B) run time will differ due to the amount of **** Mah used
C) C rated is for quickness for X amount of seconds.

I am still with my other Rc model no issue day one. owner of it since March 2017, about 500 runs at least on it most 4k mah 30C some 3500K mah 25c..

I ask my question why is Arrma or us telling others to keep to 4S-6S, are we saying it's advertisement forcing you for speed, that is my thoughts out loud and like a answer that makes sense to this.

Pic 1



Pic 2



FISH

Added note. As I was told you more or less must dedicate 4S or 6S batteries to your 4-6 set up and not separate to single batteries. to keep the Balance consistant and in order/

 

[WoodiE]

So why are we saying that I must use only 4S or 6S set ups, and anything less then 30C will see pic 2 be an issue, where as. I am running a 4000 mah 30C rated one, 3500 mah 25C rated one. and no issues at all.

You should only run a 3S, 4S, or 6S LiPo in your Talion as indicated in your user manual.

As to why you need to be using a LiPo battery rated at 35C or better, that has to do with understanding what the C rating even means in the first place. Let me explain.

C rating is the indicator of continuous discharge rate the LiPo battery can handle. It allows you to calculate the maximum constant current you can pull from the battery pack without harming it.

As an example, you have a 4S 3500mah 25C pack - so the max safe current draw would be 3500mah x 25C = 87.5 amps. If you start pulling more amperage than the battery will discharge quicker than it's rated which can cause you issues with your ESC, motor, and most certainly your battery.

If you actually followed your manual and say you went with a 3500mah 35C, than you would be able to safely pull 122.5A. A huge difference.

Can you run your 25 and 30C batteries in your Talion? Yes, just as you've so unwisely have shown. The same way you can take your air filter out of your full size car and add a bit of sugar to the tank... sure the car will run but for how long before damage is done?

You really need to understand more about LiPo. Sure they are incredible batteries and can make our toy cars really zip, but they can also be dangerous if not given the respect they deserve. Just search Youtube for LiPo fires - they aren't something you want to take likely. In your case you're running a lower or much lower C rated battery in your Talion and have already admitted you're seeing battery temps getting warmer than normal - that's a clear indication you're hurting the batteries and likely the electronics in your Talion.

I ask my question why is Arrma or us telling others to keep to 4S-6S, are we saying it's advertisement forcing you for speed,

They are not forcing you to use 4S or 6S lipos. Again read your manual. In your photo editing above you left out a lot of information. Look at the WHOLE image as I've included below for you and it's caption.

Arrma is telling you, if you want to reach speeds of 70+ MPH and use the optional pinion gear that you THEN need to use 4 or 6S.

If you don't want to hit 70 MPH then simply don't use the optional pinion gear and use any of the supported LiPo battery sizes as shown in the manual and included further above.

 

[Jerry-rigged]

A few thoughts / points.

The ESC can run 2s,3s,4s,6s. (5s is right out). Nothing wrong with this.

The BLX185 motor can handle any voltage up to 6s. If power output (speed) is the same, higher volts need less amps. It is also larger than your other motor, 4074 vs 3670, so it will be more 'amp hungry' when you make it work.

The Talion is a big heavy truck. It needs power / Watts to make it move. Watts = amps * volts. So the lower the voltage, the more amps it needs to move the same speed.

Back to the motor, it will try to make power / draw amps as much as it can to make the power you are asking, up to the physical amp limit / internal resistance of the motor. On 2s, you will be running WOT most of the time (because the overall speed is lower) so the motor will be drawing max amps all the time. This means big heat.

So, for most people,6s running is mostly cruising around mid-throttle, moderate amps, with short bursts of high throttle. 4s is similar, but with more mid-upper throttle cruising, so higher average amps. On 3s, or 2s, most people will be running WOT nearly all the time, and the motor will be drawing big amps the whole run, which will heat the whole system.


As for the C-rating, that is a whole' nuther discussion, full of half-truths and obfuscations. But - higher C-rated batteries can handle more amps. Lower C-rated batteries (and all lipos in general) tend to fail when regularly overloaded. So higher C-rated lipos are a good idea, when you know you have a big, amp hungry motor.

Last - on the idea of "Matched" batteries - IMHO, this is true, but as with so many 'truths', there is wiggle room, if you are willing to reduce overall battery life, and possible cell failure. If one battery is higher rated than the other (higher C, higer mah) then it will put extra stress on the weaker battery - causing it to fail sooner. Age and cycles are also important, because as Lipos age, they tend to lose MAH. Two packs with the same approximate age and cycle life will tend lose about the same capacity, so they will still mostly be matched.

Personally, I do run my 'matched' packs as individual 2s and as 2x2s for 4s. I try to keep an eye on them, mostly keep them charged together, discharged together. 2 of my oldest lipos are a pair of 2s 5000mah nanotecs that get run mostly as 2x2s, and some as 2s. They are about 3 years old now, some swelling (one more than the other), but still seem safe. But that one is about ready to retire, and then that second one will be 2s only service.

 

[fishycomics]

Thanks guys. I am on 2 2s 7.4vdc 5200 mah 50c (100 burst). So I am above the required load If I want to step up the game. Keep to the paired bats

So as I understand it. Keep to paired or a single battery (4-6s) mark them as to be used as ONE In any rc model that requires 4-6s.

Appreciate your Advice. And help. I did take the time to read thoroughly the manual and trial out my rc model and will go from there.

 

[fishycomics]

So the bottom line is. Do not use A single 7.4v 2S Battery in your Arrma tailon

 

[Jerry-rigged]

So the bottom line is. Do not use A single 7.4v 2S Battery in your Arrma tailon

You can, for "Kid Mode". But you still need it to be a good, high C-rated battery, as the motor will be at WOT / Full Load Amps the whole run.

 

[fishycomics]

As i understand it's a Series System, not Parallel, why it's 14.8v or 22.2v.. If I swap out the Electronics and Motor I can then go 11.1vdc and 7.4v Single Lipo

 

[chevys10zr2003]

As i understand it's a Series System, not Parallel, why it's 14.8v or 22.2v.. If I swap out the Electronics and Motor I can then go 11.1vdc and 7.4v Single Lipo

No, he is saying that on the stock electronics that you can run a single 11.1v or 7.4v lipo. All you need is the loop connector shown below. I have ran my Arrma's on a single 2s and a single 3s lipo before. I can't remember if the 2s low voltage cutoff worked or not though.

 

[Jerry-rigged]

No, he is saying that on the stock electronics that you can run a single 11.1v or 7.4v lipo. All you need is the loop connector shown below. I have ran my Arrma's on a single 2s and a single 3s lipo before. I can't remember if the 2s low voltage cutoff worked or not though.

lol... Yeah, now that I think about, I don't know about LVC on 2s. My granite 4x4 never made it to LVC with the blx185 in it. I do know the LVC works on 3s for BLX200, though. Done that in my Kraton a few times at the track.

 

[WoodiE]

The ESC can run 2s

I would still recommend sticking with what the manual suggests and 2s is not one of them.

 

[WoodiE]

lol... Yeah, now that I think about, I don't know about LVC on 2s.

Nevermind, I see you've corrected it.

 

[fishycomics]

As I ran a 4S ( 7.4 2S 5200mah 50C (100 burst) 2 bats) I did not punch the throttle and ran for 20 minutes My bats check in around 3.90ish?

As for running now on 2S one bat I will swap out the Esc and motor and run single cellsif I ever want down the road, that way knowing the system is not a 2S or 3S system? thanks guys.

 

[fishycomics]

Al-right I am more or less complete not getting a 11.1 5000 30 min required set of bats for 6S, I ran 4S and the speed gear all I can say is She's fast. peals out in mid throttle. no wheelies on stock tires ... Have fun flying

FISH

 

[fishycomics]

All in all I after having ran my own small tests, what the Hobby is all about. I was able to use my 3670 motor 2050KV, 80 plus Amp esc, and a Single 11.1v 3S 3500 25C battery giving me the same exact results as the Arrma one of 4S, I did not take it any further then I needed to with the speed gear. Why would anyone do that step down in size? well look at the answers we all post, Down the road when you need to get a Rc Model up & running you have "options" if asked. In my video I only slapped loosely my Esc and rx was open, motor was locked in perfectly. I placed it all back to stock. and I guess when I re-adjusted my mesh again I gotten more MPH and long story short I can run over 30 plus minutes that satisfies my taste, and to me that is all that matters. I am Pleased, I am happy, and I hope my notes may have helped some one out there.

 

[Jerry-rigged]

Nice!

What video / Telemetry system is that? Pretty neat.

 

[fishycomics]

Nice!

What video / Telemetry system is that? Pretty neat.

It is all gopro the hero 5 will not put the hero 6 on her, you use Quick to get the over lay and its data. Thank you. After the runs I noticed my shim was out of the diff case on the front. so I had to twice fit back in. Otherwise a ton of fun. thanks again

FISH