ajdragon
Active Member
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- Arrma RC's
- Raider
Hi
I am making this new post because the first one got a little bit messy and it was more of a R&D kind of thing.
To anyone who is interested this is how I put CVA's on my Arrma Raider XL.
If you are going to use the CVA's like I did you have to get axle boots to keep the dirt and grime out of the u-joint, and you will have to modify the hubs so the boots will fit properly. I would recommend using the Associated MIP CVD, because all you have to do then is put a small piece of heat shrink around the u-joint to keep the dirt out.
I know that these instruction are not very good and that is because I am not very good at doing wright up's. So if you have any questions I will try and answer them as best as I can.
Please read everything first and look at all of the pictures and the comments I have posted above the pictures.
1.) You will need to get the parts listed below.
2.) Remove the old axles, hubs, and dogbones.
3.) Put the ball studs from the old hubs in the third hole out on the new hubs.
4.) You need to get a 3mm drill bit and make the holes in the end of the swing arms and the lower hub holes big enough for the Heavy-Duty 3 mm Hinge Pins to fit through.
5.) Assemble the hub by installing the inner bearing then the spacer and then one 3/16 axle shim and then the outer bearing. YOU HAVE to have that shim between the spacer and one of the bearing, if you don't the bearings are going to bind up on you really badly.
6.) Attach the Hubs to the Swing arms.
7.) Assemble the CVDs or CVAs and follow the instructions that came with them.
8.) Put the CVDs or CVAs through the bearings, then put two 3/16 axle shims on the axle, then install the axle pin, and finally install the 12mm wheel hex.
9.) If you are planing on using the stock Arrma rims then you will need to make the holes in the rims slightly bigger to accommodate the new 3/16" axles.
10.) Put the wheel on
11.) Put the wheel nut on and tighten it down.
Here are the parts you will need to do the conversion.
STC7455 CARBON STEEL "Big Bone" Universal Set SC10 T4 25.99 "I used this one"
or the
ASC7455 Associated MIP CVD Complete Set T4 25.99
or the
ASC9678 Associated Factory Team Rear CVA Set SC10/RC10T4.1 22.59
70172 RPM Rear Axle Carrier SC10/T4/B4/B44 8.59 "I used this one"
or the
ASC9730 Associated Rear Hub Carrier B4/B44 3.49
ASC9892 Associated Aluminum Clamping Wheel Hex 12mm Rear SC10 8.49 "I used this one"
or the
ASC7856 Associated Hex Wheel Adapters T4 4.29
ASC7933 Associated Crush Tube GT2 1.29
ASC7935 Associated Bearing .187x.500x.196" GT2 4.69
ASC3977 Associated Rubber Sealed Bearings 3/16x3/8" 4.69
ASC9834 Associated Aluminum Locknut 8/32" Silver (6) 4.69 "I got 4 of these for under 1.00 at a hardwear store"
ASC7368 Associated Universal Shim T2 3/16 axle shims 2.59
AR330144 ARRMA Heavy-Duty Hinge Pin Set 3x35.5mm (1 Pair) 3.99
3mm drill bit
You need the A.E. 12mm hex's because the new axles are too long for the Arrma 12mm hex's.
You have to put this shock bump stop in your shocks in order to keep the Swing arms from going to high and bending the tranny out drives upwards.
As you can see whitout the shock bump stop the dogbone comes into contact with the top of the tranny out drives and will force them upwards.
I am making this new post because the first one got a little bit messy and it was more of a R&D kind of thing.
To anyone who is interested this is how I put CVA's on my Arrma Raider XL.
If you are going to use the CVA's like I did you have to get axle boots to keep the dirt and grime out of the u-joint, and you will have to modify the hubs so the boots will fit properly. I would recommend using the Associated MIP CVD, because all you have to do then is put a small piece of heat shrink around the u-joint to keep the dirt out.
I know that these instruction are not very good and that is because I am not very good at doing wright up's. So if you have any questions I will try and answer them as best as I can.
Please read everything first and look at all of the pictures and the comments I have posted above the pictures.
1.) You will need to get the parts listed below.
2.) Remove the old axles, hubs, and dogbones.
3.) Put the ball studs from the old hubs in the third hole out on the new hubs.
4.) You need to get a 3mm drill bit and make the holes in the end of the swing arms and the lower hub holes big enough for the Heavy-Duty 3 mm Hinge Pins to fit through.
5.) Assemble the hub by installing the inner bearing then the spacer and then one 3/16 axle shim and then the outer bearing. YOU HAVE to have that shim between the spacer and one of the bearing, if you don't the bearings are going to bind up on you really badly.
6.) Attach the Hubs to the Swing arms.
7.) Assemble the CVDs or CVAs and follow the instructions that came with them.
8.) Put the CVDs or CVAs through the bearings, then put two 3/16 axle shims on the axle, then install the axle pin, and finally install the 12mm wheel hex.
9.) If you are planing on using the stock Arrma rims then you will need to make the holes in the rims slightly bigger to accommodate the new 3/16" axles.
10.) Put the wheel on
11.) Put the wheel nut on and tighten it down.
Here are the parts you will need to do the conversion.
STC7455 CARBON STEEL "Big Bone" Universal Set SC10 T4 25.99 "I used this one"
or the
ASC7455 Associated MIP CVD Complete Set T4 25.99
or the
ASC9678 Associated Factory Team Rear CVA Set SC10/RC10T4.1 22.59
70172 RPM Rear Axle Carrier SC10/T4/B4/B44 8.59 "I used this one"
or the
ASC9730 Associated Rear Hub Carrier B4/B44 3.49
ASC9892 Associated Aluminum Clamping Wheel Hex 12mm Rear SC10 8.49 "I used this one"
or the
ASC7856 Associated Hex Wheel Adapters T4 4.29
ASC7933 Associated Crush Tube GT2 1.29
ASC7935 Associated Bearing .187x.500x.196" GT2 4.69
ASC3977 Associated Rubber Sealed Bearings 3/16x3/8" 4.69
ASC9834 Associated Aluminum Locknut 8/32" Silver (6) 4.69 "I got 4 of these for under 1.00 at a hardwear store"
ASC7368 Associated Universal Shim T2 3/16 axle shims 2.59
AR330144 ARRMA Heavy-Duty Hinge Pin Set 3x35.5mm (1 Pair) 3.99
3mm drill bit
You need the A.E. 12mm hex's because the new axles are too long for the Arrma 12mm hex's.
You have to put this shock bump stop in your shocks in order to keep the Swing arms from going to high and bending the tranny out drives upwards.
As you can see whitout the shock bump stop the dogbone comes into contact with the top of the tranny out drives and will force them upwards.
