Associated CVA or CVD Conversion

ajdragon

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Hi

I am making this new post because the first one got a little bit messy and it was more of a R&D kind of thing.


To anyone who is interested this is how I put CVA's on my Arrma Raider XL.

If you are going to use the CVA's like I did you have to get axle boots to keep the dirt and grime out of the u-joint, and you will have to modify the hubs so the boots will fit properly. I would recommend using the Associated MIP CVD, because all you have to do then is put a small piece of heat shrink around the u-joint to keep the dirt out.


I know that these instruction are not very good and that is because I am not very good at doing wright up's. So if you have any questions I will try and answer them as best as I can.

Please read everything first and look at all of the pictures and the comments I have posted above the pictures.

1.) You will need to get the parts listed below.

2.) Remove the old axles, hubs, and dogbones.

3.) Put the ball studs from the old hubs in the third hole out on the new hubs.

4.) You need to get a 3mm drill bit and make the holes in the end of the swing arms and the lower hub holes big enough for the Heavy-Duty 3 mm Hinge Pins to fit through.

5.) Assemble the hub by installing the inner bearing then the spacer and then one 3/16 axle shim and then the outer bearing. YOU HAVE to have that shim between the spacer and one of the bearing, if you don't the bearings are going to bind up on you really badly.

6.) Attach the Hubs to the Swing arms.

7.) Assemble the CVDs or CVAs and follow the instructions that came with them.

8.) Put the CVDs or CVAs through the bearings, then put two 3/16 axle shims on the axle, then install the axle pin, and finally install the 12mm wheel hex.

9.) If you are planing on using the stock Arrma rims then you will need to make the holes in the rims slightly bigger to accommodate the new 3/16" axles.

10.) Put the wheel on

11.) Put the wheel nut on and tighten it down.


Here are the parts you will need to do the conversion.

STC7455 CARBON STEEL "Big Bone" Universal Set SC10 T4 25.99 "I used this one"
or the
ASC7455 Associated MIP CVD Complete Set T4 25.99
or the
ASC9678 Associated Factory Team Rear CVA Set SC10/RC10T4.1 22.59


70172 RPM Rear Axle Carrier SC10/T4/B4/B44 8.59 "I used this one"
or the
ASC9730 Associated Rear Hub Carrier B4/B44 3.49


ASC9892 Associated Aluminum Clamping Wheel Hex 12mm Rear SC10 8.49 "I used this one"
or the
ASC7856 Associated Hex Wheel Adapters T4 4.29


ASC7933 Associated Crush Tube GT2 1.29

ASC7935 Associated Bearing .187x.500x.196" GT2 4.69

ASC3977 Associated Rubber Sealed Bearings 3/16x3/8" 4.69

ASC9834 Associated Aluminum Locknut 8/32" Silver (6) 4.69 "I got 4 of these for under 1.00 at a hardwear store"

ASC7368 Associated Universal Shim T2 3/16 axle shims 2.59

AR330144 ARRMA Heavy-Duty Hinge Pin Set 3x35.5mm (1 Pair) 3.99

3mm drill bit

CVD%201_zpsay0qgn3v.jpg

You need the A.E. 12mm hex's because the new axles are too long for the Arrma 12mm hex's.
CVD%202_zpsxfwrstvg.jpg

CVD%203_zpstijvog5z.jpg

CVD%204_zpsyz1wnvze.jpg

You have to put this shock bump stop in your shocks in order to keep the Swing arms from going to high and bending the tranny out drives upwards.
CVD%205_zpsy7aileli.jpg

As you can see whitout the shock bump stop the dogbone comes into contact with the top of the tranny out drives and will force them upwards.
CVD%206_zpstllh3mi2.jpg
 

Lor Fury 6s

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Great work! Ajdragon I try doing the same upgrade but I have my fury so low for high speed runs that the cvd's were a little to long,any suggestions! I'll appreciate it thank you ! Ajdragon much respect.
 

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ajdragon

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Hi

Do you have a picture from the rear end showing how low you have it? So what parts did you use? Here is how the ride height on mine looks.

Normal ride height
Rear%20Ride%20H%201_zpslpbzstvx.jpg

All the way down ride height
Rear%20Ride%20H%202_zpshzywec3h.jpg


Rear%20Ride%20H%203_zpssvixouqz.jpg
 
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sparky_malone

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Some blokey what awesome work. You should be designing your own range of cars with that kind of ingenuity.
Before i noticed what you had done i was going to go with this guys method with the cvds

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/885284-build-complete-arrma-raider.html

But i prefer your way :)

What have you done to the tie rods? What is that foam stuff? Is it just where the gap would be or is it inside the cup also?
 

sparky_malone

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Will this work on the 1/10 blx version? Or would i still have to use the dex410 cvds in the link?
 

Lor Fury 6s

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I have a first gen fury! I stiffin the rear end and lowered it for better traction! It's like 3/4 of an inch from the floor in the back and 1/2 inch in the front sitting LOW!!! 1458328441145203866815.jpg
 

ajdragon

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Hi

Too anyone who wants to know if you have the shorter A-Arm's you have to use the Team Durango DEX410 CVD's, if you have the longer A-Arm's then you can use the mod that I have listed above.

As far as I know these are the only two ways of getting CVD's.
 

Lor Fury 6s

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My fault! Ajdragon the set of cvd's were the mip ones,those I can use them on my 4wd torment,I have one more choice,to send for a set of dex410 to see if they will work! There's a better angle of my Arrma.
 

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ajdragon

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Hi

Do you know if you have the long or short A-Arms. The long rear A-Arms are 99mm. If that is what you have then the Team Durango DEX410 CVD's will be about 10mm to short.
 

wraith0078

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Small thread resurrection, but I found this thread looking for CVDs for my stepdaughter's Granite. Selected and ordered parts from you list and put them in. Test drive tomorrow, weather permitting. I ended up not needing the hinge pins. They're the same size as the stock Granite ones. The T4 CVD kit came with silver nylocks, and I used the blue ones anyways, but you don't need them either. CVD kit comes with enough shims to do the conversion, so those weren't needed. Didn't need the 3mm drill bit either. I'm chalking these differences up to the fact that the instructions were for a RaiderXL, not a Granite, or that something has changed since you wrote them up. I'm not sure of the provenance of my stepdaughter's Granite either. I bought it used. Maybe a Mega vs BLX difference? Hers is a BLX. Just not sure what year.

So, what I did use was as follows:
  • ASC7455 Associated MIP CVD Complete Set T4
  • 70172 RPM Rear Axle Carrier SC10/T4/B4/B44
  • ASC9892 Associated Aluminum Clamping Wheel Hex 12mm Rear SC10
  • ASC7933 Associated Crush Tube GT2
  • ASC7935 Associated Bearing .187x.500x.196" GT2
  • ASC3977 Associated Rubber Sealed Bearings 3/16x3/8"
Oh yeah. Also used 1/4" fuel line bump stops on the rear shocks. It wasn't binding fully compressed without them, but it looked awful close, so more of an insurance thing.

20161006_211846.jpg
 

Bri26

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Does this make the rear end wider? Is the RPM rear axle carrier plug and play or does it need to be trimmed?

Best regards,
Brian
 

ajdragon

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Hi

I just recently switched over to the MIP CVD's myself, I would recommend putting some heat shrink tubing around the joint of the CVD's to help keep dirt out of them. Also get some captured ball ends for the tie rods. The reason I used a 3mm drill was to make the holes in the carrier and the A-Arms the same size, the stock hingpin is 2.5mm and the holes in the carriers were almost 3mm, giving you a lot of play in the rear end. I also put a shim in front of the carrier to take care of the extra play.

IMG_2746.JPG IMG_2754.JPG

I also added shims here to eliminate the play in the A-Arm mounts.
IMG_2756.JPG
 
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wraith0078

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Weird. I've got no play in the rear-end at all. At the hub carriers or the other end of the a-arms. And there was no extra space around the pin in the RPM carrier. And the stock hinge pins I pulled out of my Granite were the same size as the 3mm ones I ordered. This is confusing.

20161007_213047.jpg

As for the width of the rear-end, I didn't measure it beforehand, but here's a pic straight down from the top afterwards.

EDIT: That front bumper is the RPM one for the Associated SC10. I just didn't use the skidplate. Mounted right up to the existing holes. A little funny looking, but better than stock. RPM part number 70902.

EDIT #2: Okay, I took it apart real quick. There was a CVD pin backing out anyway. Here's a couple of closeups. The chewed up arm is from the old dogbones. Only thing I'm worried about at the moment is the clearance between the hub carrier and the end of the camber link, but my Dremel can fix that. I did see where the hole for the hinge pins is a tiny bit larger in the hub carrier, like you said, but there's no play when it's assembled. This is my stepdaughter's basher anyway, so it should be okay.

20161007_213915.jpg 20161007_213947.jpg 20161007_214230.jpg 20161007_214314.jpg 20161007_215035.jpg 20161007_215249.jpg
 
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wraith0078

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Turned her loose with it the other day. I did put some heatshrink over the CVDs, as suggested. I gave it a beating at a local construction site and I have to admit, I like it quite a bit more than my Slash. May have to get myself one too.

My 12 year old stepdaughter driving her new (to her) Granite:

Her favorite thing is doing wheelies...
 

wraith0078

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Hi

I just recently switched over to the MIP CVD's myself, I would recommend putting some heat shrink tubing around the joint of the CVD's to help keep dirt out of them. Also get some captured ball ends for the tie rods. The reason I used a 3mm drill was to make the holes in the carrier and the A-Arms the same size, the stock hingpin is 2.5mm and the holes in the carriers were almost 3mm, giving you a lot of play in the rear end. I also put a shim in front of the carrier to take care of the extra play.

View attachment 3033 View attachment 3034

I also added shims here to eliminate the play in the A-Arm mounts.
View attachment 3035

After some use, the play you observed has shown up at the hub carriers. I took it apart and shimmed them the way you show in these pictures.

What captured ball ends did you use? Got any part numbers?

I've been having more fun driving my stepdaughter's Granite than my own Slash. To the point I ordered one of the new version Granites for myself. With a set of CVDs.
 

ajdragon

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Hi

These are the captured ball ends I used.

New Bitmap Image.jpg
 

akbandit907

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I have to give you a big thanks ajdragon. Like most who own the raider xl a short time after it was new I started realizing the out drives were showing warpage so bad the dog bones would not catch, at that point I researched and found your CVD conversion I orderd the parts witch I am waiting for. You saved my arrma raider xl blx from being a parts rig thank you ajdragon
 

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