Axial Ryft Build

[HZRDOS]

Cage built. Skipping around a bit in the instructions since still waiting on the Vitavon trans case and mount plate.

Man, this Treal rear sway bar is legit. Even has a small bearing to ride smoothly on in the mounts. The bushings where the bearing goes that the mounts clamp to are also aluminum.

 

[EJunlimited]

Great progress so far! Finished truck will be awesome.

 

[HZRDOS]

Painted panels and put in a few decals. Going to leave the decals very minimal. Transmission case and last few Vitavon parts coming in the mail today, so should finish up this weekend.

 

[Smilinbri]

Painted panels and put in a few decals. Going to leave the decals very minimal. Transmission case and last few Vitavon parts coming in the mail today, so should finish up this weekend.

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Dang! That silver looks sleek!! Love it! Great choice!!

 

[HZRDOS]

Dang! That silver looks sleek!! Love it! Great choice!!

Thanks. Happy with the results. Kind of wanted it to look like metal panels. they do make metal panels for it, but I figured I would bend them up pretty quick with the way I drive, and didn't want to add weight up top just for looks.

 

[Doom!]

Nice clean and classy lookin' Ryft.

 

[HZRDOS]

Parts delivery!!

 

[Killacam]

Nice looking build. I built my truck with 1m front and rear and locked center diff. It crawled like crap, so I switched to ear plugs front and rear and now I'm very happy. I went with a mamba x and 1415 motor, it rips and it's light weight. I wouldn't have the heart to Dremel into that beautiful skid plate to fit a 1515.

 

[gotnitro]

Have not seen any build threads for the Axial Ryft, so why not start one!

Got the kit version, and already have a pile of parts, still waiting on a few more.

Will be full Treal and Vitavon build, Castle MMX 2200kv and plan to run 4s. Will update as I go.

Will say that the actual kit was way cheaper than most the upgrades. Lol.

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I can tell you are old school. Nice build man!

 

[HZRDOS]

Nice looking build. I built my truck with 1m front and rear and locked center diff. It crawled like crap, so I switched to ear plugs front and rear and now I'm very happy. I went with a mamba x and 1415 motor, it rips and it's light weight. I wouldn't have the heart to Dremel into that beautiful skid plate to fit a 1515. View attachment 280774

Sweet. Not planning on crawling. Went with 1m front and rear, 20m center.

I can tell you are old school. Nice build man!

Thanks. I much prefer the kits over RTR rigs. I pull most of it apart anyways, and just get mad at the crappy fitment when rebuilding. Haha. And yes, I am from the time when all hobby grade RC were kits. RTR were RadioShack specials.

 

[Smilinbri]

Sweet. Not planning on crawling. Went with 1m front and rear, 20m center.

Thanks. I much prefer the kits over RTR rigs. I pull most of it apart anyways, and just get mad at the crappy fitment when rebuilding. Haha. And yes, I am from the time when all hobby grade RC were kits. RTR were RadioShack specials.

Ok, so stoopid question, but I have a hell of a time squeezin' 500k diff oil into a diff, how the hell you get the mills in the diffs? Is it just a circle of putty you push into it? Do you have to melt it 1st and let it drip in? Is it powder and you add water to it? Is there some black magic involved? Obviously I've never tried.

 

[HZRDOS]

Ok, so stoopid question, but I have a hell of a time squeezin' 500k diff oil into a diff, how the hell you get the mills in the diffs? Is it just a circle of putty you push into it? Do you have to melt it 1st and let it drip in? Is it powder and you add water to it? Is there some black magic involved? Obviously I've never tried.

I have a syringe with the end cut off so it is just a plastic tube with the plunger that I use for the 1m. 20m, you use a butter knife. The 20m is like clear putty. But the 1mil is really sticky. So it is easy to just push the 20m down as much as you can. The 1m, I put in and let sit for an hour to settle in.

 

[Smilinbri]

I have a syringe with the end cut off so it is just a plastic tube with the plunger that I use for the 1m. 20m, you use a butter knife. The 20m is like clear putty. But the 1mil is really sticky. So it is easy to just push the 20m down as much as you can. The 1m, I put in and let sit for an hour to settle in.

And now I know......thanks!!

 

[HZRDOS]

Had to take the dremel to a brand new castle motor a bit. Lol. The 42mm can was about 1mm off from getting the mesh right. I wanted to use a 15t...but no way to do that without getting a bigger spur. So went with a 17t. Had to trim the cooling fins a bit on one side of the motor.

 

[Doom!]

Now that's a snug fit!

 

[HZRDOS]

Now that's a snug fit!

Ha. Yeah. Could have went with a larger pinion, but didn't want to go above 17t. As it is, 17t is stock RTR with the 2200kv spektrum. I have a 2650...and not trying to build a speed rig. Sure the MMX and 1512 can handle it though. At least don't have to worry about cogging, just watch temps.

One part of kits I don't like is dealing with all the rod ends. Nice thing about going all Treal links...don't have to deal with any!

 

[HZRDOS]

Getting there. Almost every item in these pics are not stock parts. Lol. Other than the internal gears and axles.

 

[HZRDOS]

Just glued the tires, and will mount tomorrow. Everything else done. ESC setup and programmed. Bench test, this thing has a high pitched whine. Lot different then my other rigs.

Went with some 140mm limit straps rear, 115mm fronts. Found some good mounting points. Should be setup well. Trimmed the cockpit a good bit to fit nicely around the MMX ESC and the RPM mount cage. Pretty happy with the results of everything.

 

[Smilinbri]

Looks awesome!! Great job!! Can't wait to see it an action!! Make sure to share some vids. Congrats!!

 

[HZRDOS]

This thing is wild! So much different than driving a typical basher. Got to work to keep it from rolling over, but that's fine. I like it! I have way to much power in this thing...buts OK too. Haha.