Infraction Bearing recommendations for Arrma Infraction

[SrC]

My bad. I owe you one. There are 22 total including the 4 6x10x3. The sizes are listed on the FastEddy site incuding the 4 . I mixed and matched 2 BB kits across 3 of my 6S rigs. I ended up needing 4 6x10x3 BB separately. I fouled up I guess.

 

[Phaedrus]

Oh well. Not a huge $$ hit. I am sure they will be used sooner or later.

 

[wydowmaykur]

My bad. I owe you one. There are 22 total including the 4 6x10x3. The sizes are listed on the FastEddy site incuding the 4 . I mixed and matched 2 BB kits across 3 of my 6S rigs. I ended up needing 4 6x10x3 BB separately. I fouled up I guess.

no worries. I appreciate your eagerness to help out

 

[SrC]

If you have a new 6S rig and want to keep the OE unsealed bearings for a while, buying (4) 6x10x3mm to replace the OE brass bushings in the steering bellcrank will afford smoother steering response. The 4 bearings are about $8.00 shipped. (TRB RC) Buying a complete Kit is also an option so you have all bearings on hand when needed. And just use the kit included (4) 6x10x3mm Bearings first to enhance the steering. Just an Idea.

 

[MrTitanium]

I’m quite fond of Avid RC Revolution bearings. Tried FastEddy, but prefer Avid. To each their own...

 

[ho lee chit]

I don't have much luck with fast eddy. The rubber seal came of several bearings. One rubber seal came of the bearing still in the bag!

After two months in my notorious two seals were of the bearings and one other bearing completely seized. Maybe 10/12 battery charges

I'm going back to jim's bearings with is slightly more expensive but have better experience with.

 

[Souten]

Since my kraton is made of all aftermarket parts alot of the standard size bearings that come with the fast eddy kit doesn't fit. So everytime I need a bearing I need to search for specific size, quality and type individually for example:15x24x5 ceramic bearings instead of the 15x21x4 that comes stock and in fast eddys. I don't order from brand bearings advertised as for RC. Go straight to the manufacturer, uxcell is one I like for cheap non ceramic bearings and PGN for high quality expensive ceramic bearings. The PGN 15x24x5 is around 50 bucks a piece and uxcell 15x24x5 is around $8 a piece. The performance, longevity and durability of the ceramics justify the price if you notice certain bearings through out your rc wear out or lock up alot more than others, those spots are probably taking a much heavier load than the other bearings.
P.S. with ABEC ratings, the lowest possible tolerance you can afford is not best in every situation. I'm only 2 years into the hobby but 20 years of skateboarding and using all different brands and tolerances and types of bearings in my skateboards has given me more hands on/riding on bearing experience than a lifetime of replacing bearings in rc cars. In an rc car you don't get the advantage of actually feeling how the bearings are working, and rc car the most you can do is twirl the tires or spin it on your finger and listen for noises or feel resistance. But neither of those will tell you how well it will perform while the car is running. In my experience if you want speed and durability, your best bet is abec 5. ABEC 7 and 9 may be more likely to reach maximum rpm and less resistance BUT they cannot handle a real beating for very long. That's why they use 7 and 9 in brushless motors, they can get the most power,rpm, least resistance. But they can get away with it in the motor because it's completely protected from impacts and damage. Put abec 9 bearings all throughout your rc car and they wont survive many bash sessions. I would only use those in speed runners and even then i would probably stick to abec 7.

 

[SrC]

The higher the Abec rating just means better fit tolerance and sphericity of the balls. Not necessarily a stronger or longer lasting bearing. An urban myth. The trade off is more operating resistance the higher the Abec. RC doesn't require super high Abecs. Hybrid Ceramics are over kill. IMO. Never felt the crazy price made them last any longer. Motors may benefit, because of minimal radial loading. But any decent bearing cared for will be the same. Ceramics have not shown any real RPM improvements in any motor over traditional steel BB's with an Abec 5 rating.
Ceramics are not rated in Abec specs. For a reason. Some sellers and Mfrs. try to equate an Abec rating to ceramics, but it is not correct. $Full$ ceramics have a distinct advantage in general. Again Overkill for RC's. Bearings are a disposable part. Trying to find the best is a challenge. A challenge I started 30 years ago in RC . Yes some are better than others. But just splitting hairs at some point. I replace a lot of skate and scooter bearings on my sons stuff. Tried them all. I just stick with the Bones basic. The Ceramics are sweet when broken in, but fail just as soon as the basics at almost triple the price. Makes no sense. There are cheap bearing companies out there. FE and so forth. They are all a mixed bag. Tried them all. Seals pop when cages fail and balls are worn. I would rather take a new abec 3 and pop the seals, clean out ALL oe grease and use my own. Filled to 1/3 of the races. They seem to fair the best. I've played with Full and Hybrid Ceramics, on my MTB and Road bikes. Again just a mixed bag. They even fail sooner just on the rear derailler jockey wheels, which encounter low RPMs and near zero load. Full ceramics were originally designed with No lube at all.
Hybrid ceramics fail at the cage and the races regardless. Just like Steel BB's. Hybrid Ceramics cannot handle radial loads like those seen at the wheel hubs for instance.
$8. for Steel and $50. for a Hybrid Ceramic is ludicrous. Cannot justify those prices for RC at all. I generally don't buy cheap when it comes to this hobby. I have all the tools and support equipment that's out there. But when it comes to bearings and Lipos, I am very cynical from past experience.
Just my thoughts.

 

[slick2500]

The higher the Abec rating just means better fit tolerance and sphericity of the balls. Not necessarily a stronger or longer lasting bearing. An urban myth. The trade off is more operating resistance the higher the Abec. RC doesn't require super high Abecs. Hybrid Ceramics are over kill. IMO. Never felt the crazy price made them last any longer. Motors may benefit, because of minimal radial loading. But any decent bearing cared for will be the same. Ceramics have not shown any real RPM improvements in any motor over traditional steel BB's with an Abec 5 rating.
Ceramics are not rated in Abec specs. For a reason. Some sellers and Mfrs. try to equate an Abec rating to ceramics, but it is not correct. $Full$ ceramics have a distinct advantage in general. Again Overkill for RC's. Bearings are a disposable part. Trying to find the best is a challenge. A challenge I started 30 years ago in RC . Yes some are better than others. But just splitting hairs at some point. I replace a lot of skate and scooter bearings on my sons stuff. Tried them all. I just stick with the Bones basic. The Ceramics are sweet when broken in, but fail just as soon as the basics at almost triple the price. Makes no sense. There are cheap bearing companies out there. FE and so forth. They are all a mixed bag. Tried them all. Seals pop when cages fail and balls are worn. I would rather take a new abec 3 and pop the seals, clean out ALL oe grease and use my own. Filled to 1/3 of the races. They seem to fair the best. I've played with Full and Hybrid Ceramics, on my MTB and Road bikes. Again just a mixed bag. They even fail sooner just on the rear derailler jockey wheels, which encounter low RPMs and near zero load. Full ceramics were originally designed with No lube at all.
Hybrid ceramics fail at the cage and the races regardless. Just like Steel BB's. Hybrid Ceramics cannot handle radial loads like those seen at the wheel hubs for instance.
$8. for Steel and $50. for a Hybrid Ceramic is ludicrous. Cannot justify those prices for RC at all. I generally don't buy cheap when it comes to this hobby. I have all the tools and support equipment that's out there. But when it comes to bearings and Lipos, I am very cynical from past experience.
Just my thoughts.

I usually just buy 10 packs of whatever size I need from TRBRC.

 

[Souten]

The higher the Abec rating just means better fit tolerance and sphericity of the balls. Not necessarily a stronger or longer lasting bearing. An urban myth. The trade off is more operating resistance the higher the Abec. RC doesn't require super high Abecs. Hybrid Ceramics are over kill. IMO. Never felt the crazy price made them last any longer. Motors may benefit, because of minimal radial loading. But any decent bearing cared for will be the same. Ceramics have not shown any real RPM improvements in any motor over traditional steel BB's with an Abec 5 rating.
Ceramics are not rated in Abec specs. For a reason. Some sellers and Mfrs. try to equate an Abec rating to ceramics, but it is not correct. $Full$ ceramics have a distinct advantage in general. Again Overkill for RC's. Bearings are a disposable part. Trying to find the best is a challenge. A challenge I started 30 years ago in RC . Yes some are better than others. But just splitting hairs at some point. I replace a lot of skate and scooter bearings on my sons stuff. Tried them all. I just stick with the Bones basic. The Ceramics are sweet when broken in, but fail just as soon as the basics at almost triple the price. Makes no sense. There are cheap bearing companies out there. FE and so forth. They are all a mixed bag. Tried them all. Seals pop when cages fail and balls are worn. I would rather take a new abec 3 and pop the seals, clean out ALL oe grease and use my own. Filled to 1/3 of the races. They seem to fair the best. I've played with Full and Hybrid Ceramics, on my MTB and Road bikes. Again just a mixed bag. They even fail sooner just on the rear derailler jockey wheels, which encounter low RPMs and near zero load. Full ceramics were originally designed with No lube at all.
Hybrid ceramics fail at the cage and the races regardless. Just like Steel BB's. Hybrid Ceramics cannot handle radial loads like those seen at the wheel hubs for instance.
$8. for Steel and $50. for a Hybrid Ceramic is ludicrous. Cannot justify those prices for RC at all. I generally don't buy cheap when it comes to this hobby. I have all the tools and support equipment that's out there. But when it comes to bearings and Lipos, I am very cynical from past experience.
Just my thoughts.

All I can speak to is my own experience using thousands of bearings of many types/ratings/sizes/uses over the last 25 years. Bones bearings Lol that brings back the teenage skate memories. Used to go through boxes and boxes of those, my heavy independent trucks loved to break them for some reason lol. That makes me really want to grab one of my old decks and head to the park. Unfortunately I pushed myself too hard in my 20's and my last trick was a double heel flip off a 12 stair, I landed it and then crumpled to the ground with 2 broken feet and stress fractures all over my feet and legs.

 

[Unlimited]

Ceramic oil bearings if you have speed run on road car like Limitless must be the best.

Hybrid bearings with one rubber side so you can wash them easy and fill with new speed bearing oil after 10-15 packs
If you have 8s you better make the bearings super smooth after every 10packs

 

[Souten]

Nvmd

 

[parcou]

Oh well. Not a huge $$ hit. I am sure they will be used sooner or later.

Phaedrus

Question....for a new guy how hard was it to get to the steering posts/bellcrank to change those 4 bearings? Something I would like to take a swing at?