Outcast Bearings are annoying

[lee82gx]

If you have the know how to fix something yourself, no one else will do it better than you. No matter what you have front and center of you.
This hobby is about fixing these models with your own 2 hands. You learn by doing.

RTR's really have brought a big change in this. Used to be anything worthwhile is always a kit, now many OEM's have good enough RTR's. Which brings me to my next point - HOW COME WE DON"T HAVE PROPER BUILD MANUALS? They expect us to bash wrench repeat, but the darned exploded views do not provide sufficient information to do it right. What is up with that?

 

[SrC]

I kind of agree about the manuals could be better. Just that the Blow up diagrams are there to suffice and help.
No one needs a Kit build manual since these are RTR. Already built. No brand supplies a kit build manual with their RTR's.
Legit Kit manuals cost more to supply. These are NOT kits.

 

[RCbuzz]

I kind of agree about the manuals could be better. Just that the Blow up diagrams are there to suffice and help.
No one needs a Kit build manual since these are RTR. Already built. No brand supplies a kit build manual with their RTR's.
Legit Kit manuals cost more to supply. These are NOT kits.

Even some of the exploded diagrams are missing parts or have sections that are hard to follow.. That being said, I am super glad they exist!

 

[SrC]

I find errors and omissions of parts many many times.
Sometimes those same errors and more, even carried over to new model revision blowups. Been that way with Arrma for so many years.

 

[lee82gx]

I kind of agree about the manuals could be better. Just that the Blow up diagrams are there to suffice and help.
No one needs a Kit build manual since these are RTR. Already built. No brand supplies a kit build manual with their RTR's.
Legit Kit manuals cost more to supply. These are NOT kits.

I humbly disagree. The manuals ARE needed. I have a degree in Mechanical engineering and have many years experience in the hobby, yet I find my eyeballs exploding when needing to find out which screw actually goes where (ok this just says I'm a lousy engineer but still). Its sorely difficult to figure for a person not well versed, which part goes in first and next and last because the exploded view just does not state it clearly in step. While there are plenty of youtube videos out there, no one is sure which is correct and which is not. It is no wonder that OP is not amazed at how easy it is to change any particular bearing. .

 

[SrC]

Maybe from my perspective having built way more Kit builds over the years than owning RTR ones.
I bet 99% of RC'ers these days never built a kit from scratch. If RTR's never existed, many would not even be in this hobby. RTR brands have reached out to so many this way, to grow the hobby, This hobby for me started in the 1980's when Kits were the absolute norm . Models always were built by you from a box of bagged parts. Now RTR's are basically preassembled Toys that anyone can have. Instant gratification out the box. It is actually cheaper to sell RTR models. Kits cost more to design, package and manufacture. QC must be way more Spot on. Or that brand/model is a fail.
I can easily disassemble something and while reverse engineering its layout. Honestly it is all muscle memory. Learn by doing, working with sub assy's as you go.

>>> Would it be great if every RTR came with a 30+ page factory build manual showing Step by step each screw and part assembled in correct order??? Sure.
But that will never happen. It's simply not a thing. Never was with RTR Models.
A blow up diagram is as good as it gets. And if you understand it well , makes things quite easy.
I am a gear head anyway myself. I was a Toyota tech years back and all. Is probably easier for me. RC models are just child's play for me.

 

[razorrc]

There are some companies that still will put out a step by step assembly instruction manual for an RTR, Team Associated does for theirs. I think Hobao and maybe HPI too.

 

[RC Steve]

I drive in the rain, mud, and I use a garden hose to clean my truck. I live in the Northwest, you got to get the crud off somehow. Repacking the bearings with Philwood before I install them gets me a run life of 6-8 months on 6s wheel bearings. My Teknos tend to be good for a year.

 

[SrC]

There are some companies that still will put out a step by step assembly instruction manual for an RTR, Team Associated does for theirs. I think Hobao and maybe HPI too.

I wouldn't call them any great manuals TBH.
But I get your point.



>>>>Not to burst anyone's bubble here, Arrma models are far from anything high end. They are sourced and made to a cheaper price point for the RC'er masses. Don't expect High end here. They are RTR's that anyone can have. Arrma could care less if you personally have a hard time fixing and repairing them. Lets be real here. That's on you after sale. They are hobby grade and repairable as with any RC brand.
And they are "good enough" for Bashing. This is their lane.

Edited.

 

[lee82gx]

I wouldn't call them any great manuals TBH.
But I get your point.



>>>>Not to burst anyone's bubble here, Arrma models are far from anything high end. They are sourced and made to a cheaper price point for the RC'er masses. Don't expect High end here. They are RTR's that anyone can have. Arrma could care less if you personally have a hard time fixing and repairing them. Lets be real here. That's on you after sale. They are hobby grade and repairable as with any RC brand.
And they are "good enough" for Bashing. This is their lane.

Edited.

I don't think its a matter of high or low end. Even Chinese knock off RTR's, the HBX MJX ABC XYZ usually have a manual to sequence the repair. I totally agree Arrma don't seem to care, they are chasing the bottom line. At some point though, I'd choose the ones who care rather than don't. In my line of work, if we don't take care of customers someone else will.

 

[Bustedaw11]

There are some companies that still will put out a step by step assembly instruction manual for an RTR, Team Associated does for theirs. I think Hobao and maybe HPI too.

Kyosho inferno's come with awesome manuals.

I'd love kit only- the hobby wouldn't survive if that were the case though. Most in the last 15 years start with rtr's and learn from there. Not from kits like back in the day. As @SrC stated, folks are about that instant experience vs working for it more often then not.

 

[Surchaufeur]

If you run on dry stuff and have decent rubber shielded bearings they can last for a few years. Ussualy the thin ones go out first. I still have original smooth like new 5 yr old shielded bearings 8x16x4 from my kratkn 4s v1

 

[MrTitanium]

… This will get anything done on an Arrma.

This is incorrect. The MIP 2mm driver is too short to tighten the screw inside the axle tubes which holds the outdrives. You’ll need a longer unit like the one from Dynamite for this.

 

[Bustedaw11]

This is incorrect. The MIP 2mm driver is too short to tighten the screw inside the axle tubes which holds the outdrives. You’ll need a longer unit like the one from Dynamite for this.

I cheated and flexed the axle over so I could use a shorty. Prob not the best plan. Stresses the ears a bit. I was a man on a mission that night.

Your absolutely right though, need a long driver to do that the easy/ proper way

 

[SrC]

I drive in the rain, mud, and I use a garden hose to clean my truck. I live in the Northwest, you got to get the crud off somehow. Repacking the bearings with Philwood before I install them gets me a run life of 6-8 months on 6s wheel bearings. My Teknos tend to be good for a year.

Good old Phil Wood Tenacious Oil?? That smelly green stuff, practically glows in the dark. Smells like my Cars differential oil.

I have that. I never considered running that in any of my RC BB's. Stuff is like molasses. Heavy duty. WP for sure.

Absolutely great for when I'm rebuilding my Bike's Freehubs.

 

[Bustedaw11]

Good old Phil Wood Tenacious Oil?? That smelly green stuff, practically glows in the dark. Smells like my Cars differential oil.

I have that. I never considered running that in any of my RC BB's. Stuff is like molasses. Heavy duty. WP for sure.

Absolutely great for when I'm rebuilding my Bike's Freehubs.

If you don't mind a little drag there is surely some good water resistant/ proof greases out there you could lightly pack your bearings with.
Key word "lightly"

Would be great if your one of those folks that like to get down and dirty often.

 

[Glitch]

Good old Phil Wood Tenacious Oil?? That smelly green stuff, practically glows in the dark. Smells like my Cars differential oil.

I have that. I never considered running that in any of my RC BB's. Stuff is like molasses. Heavy duty. WP for sure.

Absolutely great for when I'm rebuilding my Bike's Freehubs.

While on the subject, what grease/lube do you think is best for bearing longevity in normal outdoor/dirt bashing conditions? Apologies if this has been discussed already.

 

[SrC]

Not that what I say is best, but been using primarly Superlube synthetic grease for like 25+years for my RC's., not too thick great in hot or cold, and is WP. Mobil 1 grease is also ,Good. Similar properties . Trick is to only pack the BB, once cleaned well, with 1/3 grease no more. Too much will make them lock up and gall out. They run run hot, and the seals will blow out. A fail. Less is more. I tried it many ways. BB OE' mfr's always recommend 1/3 fill max.

 

[RCbuzz]

Not that what I say is best, but been using primarly Superlube synthetic grease for like 25+years for my RC's., not too thick great in hot or cold, and is WP. Mobil 1 grease is also ,Good. Similar properties . Trick is to only pack the BB, once cleaned well, with 1/3 grease no more. Too much will make them lock up and gall out. Then the seals will blow out. A fail. Less is more.

+1, Superlube synthetic is great for bearings.

Superlube Silicone grease is also good stuff but a bit tacky, very good for diff ring/pinion gears, not so much for bearings. Also very plastic safe .

 

[SrC]

+1.
There is a distinction to be made between Superlube Silicone Lubricant and Superlube NLGI syn. grease.
For instance you would use SL Silicone grease as a brake lubricant on Cars, Yet not with Car Bearings. Bearings would use SL NLGI Grease.
They are both different lubes for different applications. Greases are generally not safe on some plastics and rubber. Silicone is more inert and safe on rubber o-rings and plastics.

I swear it's a 50/50 on if I like wrenching more or driving them more...

I look for any excuse I can to tear into an rc and wrench. "well nothings broke let's do a deep clean today"


I love wrenching on anything in general though...

As @SrC said, wrenching is a huge part of this hobby. No way to do the hobby and avoid it.

Trust me, I rather drive way more. Who doesn't. If these RC's were indestructable, we would be driving them forever, non stop. Lipo's permitting. I know I would.
I just feel you end up wrenching way more. Time wise. And that is more realistic TBH. So I embrace the wrenching aspect as a result.