Best way to fix this!

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BudUMfan

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I’m still a noob in training, and was wondering if there was an easy way to fix this road rash. Easier than stripping away all of the paint and repainting it as I training, and was wondering if there was a easy way to fix this road rash. Easier than stripping away all of the paint and repainting it as I have never done either. Thanks for the input…appreciate it!

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I’m still a noob in training, and was wondering if there was an easy way to fix this road rash. Easier than stripping away all of the paint and repainting it as I training, and was wondering if there was a easy way to fix this road rash. Easier than stripping away all of the paint and repainting it as I have never done either. Thanks for the input…appreciate it!

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I feel ya, Sir..... I hate to see that road rash on a clean body...

I look forward to answers as well. It has happened to my Infraction body. Some cases I have taped off and painted the outside but it worked for my color scheme. In other cases time to add some new stickers over the damage :)
 
Looks deep will not be able to get all of it without thinning the body. But sand paper 240 all the way to 1500 then buffing compound and a small buffer 3inch is ideal.
 
For the recommendation above from Boggs
You will want to use lots of compound and not over heat the plastic.
Expect the compound to go flying everywhere in 360 deg.

That is your only real option and its still not a sure bet. Ultimately what you need is a body for driving and a body for shelf queen duty.
 
I like option number 2. Shelf queen body, like my Skyline for my infraction but I’ll need a new shiny wing too. This just came in!

For the recommendation above from Boggs
You will want to use lots of compound and not over heat the plastic.
Expect the compound to go flying everywhere in 360 deg.

That is your only real option and its still not a sure bet. Ultimately what you need is a body for driving and a body for shelf queen duty.

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I went for a rip in a right hand drive one and it scared the living daylights out of me and I don’t get scared in a car but holy hell. And you’re telling me that dude paid that much? The BOV scared old people
 
I went for a rip in a right hand drive one and it scared the living daylights out of me and I don’t get scared in a car but holy hell. And you’re telling me that dude paid that much? The BOV scared old people
It used to be you could find them for 30-60k, but now the prices went up north of 100k. Almost like what happened to the Supra twin turbo models 93-98

It would depend when he bought it I suppose.
The R32 and R33 are considerably cheaper, but the 34 series is very pricey.

As much as I love the looks I'd just get a newer US version for that sort of price.
 
Sorry for your loss brother. Sanding, then buffing is the only way to get it back to even close unfortunately. Not going to be quick either I'm afraid. Sanding and buffing removes material as well so it's strength will be compromised. I think if you plan to keep running the rig, make this one your running body and buy new for display.
 
When I ran my HPI XS regularly I ended up covering the hood and roof with skateboard deck tape (like sand paper with a sticky backing).

Stopped the car from sliding so far when it ended up on its lid. I also went the route of having a driving body and a shelf body.

+1 on the embrace the battle scars comments.
 
Dude, that Nismo looks way too pretty to be a shelf queen. That thing deserves to be sped along swiftly, as god and the engineers intended!
It’s just a matter of time Dan! I got to at least get the right kit to match! 😉 The seller will always take less.
I can’t have a fake carbon fiber hood with without a real carbon fiber something! Lol
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I guess I have two bodies to run! lol. I’m embracing the carnage!

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Oh I’m gonna run it. They make more everyday
 
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