building a better Outcast

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Finally got it back together As you can see the other piece just disintegrated when I tried pulling it out the last time Still waiting on parts Got the Hot racing shock replacements And hot racing diff gears coming
Wonder if this would work better
 

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Finally got it back together As you can see the other piece just disintegrated when I tried pulling it out the last time Still waiting on parts Got the Hot racing shock replacements And hot racing diff gears coming
Wonder if this would work better
integy metal is like hot racing i went trought a few motor mounts but i never broke the lock tab you are a legend lol
Nobody tested this before so idk its cnc machined tho
 
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Front shocks are massive rears are kind of skinny probly should have bought both fronts But those are the parts numbers they gave me
 

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Parts supposed to arrive today no parts chest freezer and the dryer poop the bed so I guess the Talon is on the back burner
 
Front shocks are massive rears are kind of skinny probly should have bought both fronts But those are the parts numbers they gave me
They gave you rears for the 3s. Should be this part number TFF155AR08 not ATF155AR08

TFF155AR08 is what you need.
 
I feel like a beat my 4s Outcast pretty good, within some reason, like I'm not expecting it to take blunt force at speed into a wall or curb or post, or launch it 60 feet in the air and break nothing. After sorting out the initial mis-assembly of the slipper from the factory and putting it together with all new parts it has not caused me any issues. I should also say I installed a full set of Jims sealed bearings after only a few runs. If you assemble the slipper correctly and set it 1 turn out with new parts it performs pretty good, after a little wear-in I have it set to about 1/2 turn out with loctite on the screw and punch on 5, I'm not breaking anything. My drivetrain is all original, I'm not sure how people are destroying the diffs?? my best guess is hammering the throttle when you should be letting go. I also put on RPM arms day 1 and have never broken any RPM product.
 
I feel like a beat my 4s Outcast pretty good, within some reason, like I'm not expecting it to take blunt force at speed into a wall or curb or post, or launch it 60 feet in the air and break nothing. After sorting out the initial mis-assembly of the slipper from the factory and putting it together with all new parts it has not caused me any issues. I should also say I installed a full set of Jims sealed bearings after only a few runs. If you assemble the slipper correctly and set it 1 turn out with new parts it performs pretty good, after a little wear-in I have it set to about 1/2 turn out with loctite on the screw and punch on 5, I'm not breaking anything. My drivetrain is all original, I'm not sure how people are destroying the diffs?? my best guess is hammering the throttle when you should be letting go. I also put on RPM arms day 1 and have never broken any RPM product.
My theory is the outcast diffs are less stressed because of short wheel base its easy to lift the front up vs ghe kratkn not really and not mainf the gearmesh tight enough when remplacing the diffs.i run 1 turn something on my kraton on 15t its a monster 1/2 turn seems a lot on the outcast
What do you think about jimsbearings i have a few sets coming because i started to hate the fast eddy ones
They cant make rubber seals right
 
My theory is the outcast diffs are less stressed because of short wheel base its easy to lift the front up vs ghe kratkn not really and not mainf the gearmesh tight enough when remplacing the diffs.i run 1 turn something on my kraton on 15t its a monster 1/2 turn seems a lot on the outcast
What do you think about jimsbearings i have a few sets coming because i started to hate the fast eddy ones
They cant make rubber seals right

Maybe it's the 15t pinion then, I never changed the stock 13t. It's plenty fast for what it is.
 
My theory is the outcast diffs are less stressed because of short wheel base its easy to lift the front up vs ghe kratkn not really and not mainf the gearmesh tight enough when remplacing the diffs.i run 1 turn something on my kraton on 15t its a monster 1/2 turn seems a lot on the outcast
What do you think about jimsbearings i have a few sets coming because i started to hate the fast eddy ones
They cant make rubber seals right
Jim's are about the same as Fast Eddy from my experience.
 
Maybe it's the 15t pinion then, I never changed the stock 13t. It's plenty fast for what it is.
I was running 13t for a long time
Jim's are about the same as Fast Eddy from my experience.
If they are the same like fast eddy well im going to swotch back to fast eddy even if i hate them
 
I was running 13t for a long time

If they are the same like fast eddy well im going to swotch back to fast eddy even if i hate them
I'm going to try Avid or Acer next I hear good things about Boca but their bearings are $$

-edit- awe crap Acer only has ceramic kits for the Kraton and their website is awful.
-edit2- Never mind found it but only for the 6s...... https://www.acerracing.com/products/arrma-typhon-ball-bearings
-edit3- Jebus they cost as much as Bocas.
 
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I'm going to try Avid or Acer next I hear good things about Boca but their bearings are $$

-edit- awe crap Acer only has ceramic kits for the Kraton and their website is awful.
-edit2- Never mind found it but only for the 6s...... https://www.acerracing.com/products/arrma-typhon-ball-bearings
-edit3- Jebus they cost as much as Bocas.
Yup i just get their ceramic bearing for my motor 8usd is a great price with abec 5
Was thinking about the clutch bearing quite a bit idk what i should do with that?
 
I would just replace all the bearings in your truck with ceramic ones as long as I doesn't cost an arm and a leg
 
Got my diff gears and yoke but only have 3k 7k diff oil which on to use in rear 3k rear 7k front in nitro
 
12 hour shift done come home to RC parts I have to Order metal yokes when back in stock Maybe integy motor case Start buying replacement for my front diff By the time I'm done buying parts I probly should have paid the extra 160 bucks for the 1/8 scale But I like this truck better
 

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