Changing ESC connector - Outcast 4S v2

[Evil Jim]

Good day, all -

As stated, I'm looking to change the connector on my Outcast/Spektrum to my preferred setup, but was looking to confirm some aspects beforehand. I have no concern for any of the Spektrum "smart" functions...mostly because I'm not going to pay for their proprietary system/parts...but I also want to make sure I'm not negating/deleting something necessary, or beneficial from my rig.

Other than the small batt/telemetry wires that need to be at least restrained, if not actually clipped/insulated, there is also a cap/PCB bundle (photo attached, JIC) that sits in-line, just off the ESC. It's not clear what function it serves, so I wanted to see if anyone knew what all is in there and what its benefit is to the system. I was planning to leave it in place, unless there's a reason to remove it. Predominantly because the leftover wire stubs would be shorter than I'd really like to work with, I can set the best length (with minimal connections) if there is more length to do so. (Trying not to completely rewire everything at the ESC.)

Aside from these things, I'm also still trying to decide if I'm going to leave the series splitter in place. It's handy for buying cheaper packs, as well as having more versatility in my LiPo supply. However, it's also a lot of floppy wire to deal with...especially when using a 3/4S, instead of running two 2S packs.

TIA for any info/guidance...Ciao!

EJ

 

[Gedrick]

I saw on someone else's set up, the connector that "shorts" out the second connector can live on the chassis brace bar so the whole harness sort of floats above everything else. So if you want to keep the second connector, you could do that to keep it out of the way.

Hold up I'll grab a pic:

 

[SrC]

You can cut and cap off the Grey Smart wires for sure. Not needed. Cut them short so they won't becom any liability. Heatshrink the ends to prevent any Deadshorts.I do this and use my XT90's. What I preferred for many years. But the Cap pack should absolutely be retained. In fact reinforce it so it wont get pulled out with impacts. The Cap pack wires are known to snap off at the soldered joints. Especially if the Mains leads Flap around and not secured well enough with Wire ties or Velcro.
I like to use single bricks not double packs in series when I can. Best setup. The jumper Connector tends to come apart. Losing control of the rig when bashing hard or with severe impacts. Should Wire tie the 2 M-F jumper connector ends together for insurance.

 

[slick2500]

You can cut and cap off the Grey Smart wires for sure. Not needed. Cut them short so they won't becom any liability. Heatshrink the ends to prevent any Deadshorts.I do this and use my XT90's. What I preferred for many years. But the Cap pack should absolutely be retained. In fact reinforce it so it wont get pulled out with impacts. The Cap pack wires are known to snap off at the soldered joints. Especially if the Mains leads Flap around and not secured well enough with Wire ties or Velcro.

This ^

The only negative effect is that it voids the warranty. But if you remove the old connectors right you can always reattach it if you have to send it back in.

 

[Evil Jim]

I saw on someone else's set up, the connector that "shorts" out the second connector can live on the chassis brace bar...

Thnx, Gedrick...that's a great, and dead simple, solution...I'll play around with it.

The jumper Connector tends to come apart...Should Wire tie the 2 M-F jumper connector ends together for insurance.

Thnx for the confirmation, Steve...and the tip above. I'll definitely keep it in mind as I move forward. ATM I'm still (mostly) running at 50% throttle, as I get used to the rig...as well as the power/punch of LiPos...so I'm not really stressing any connections just yet. (Plus, just bashing in the street where all impacts can be devastating...curbs are solid AF.)

As for warranties...they only exist to be voided, IMO.

EJ

 

[SrC]

Yeah I am the Warranty.