DA’s winterproject: HPI Vorza slow (re)build

[Double Apex]

I wanted a buggy and allways had a soft soft spot for the HPI Vorza. Since they introduced a new model last year, my fears of parts availablility subsided a bit and I started looking for a nice deal. Found one on e-bay Germany with a lot of spare parts and the owner was ok with shipping abroad. I took the gamble after speaking the owner on the phone, payed and waited …..

A few days later the Vorza arrived and was exactly in the condition the previous owner told me it was. It seemed ready to go but I alway rebuild used cars I buy so this will be my winter project. Since it is to cold for driving I will take my time and make it a slow rebuild/restoration.

The Vorza before the teardown. seems to be in OK condition (sorry for the blurry pick)

 

[gotnitro]

I raced a D8 for 2 years about 14 years ago, won plenty of A-mains with it too. Loved that buggy! @slick2500 loves Vorza's as well.

 

[Double Apex]

Nice! Maybe you can help me with the set up once it’s finished. The goal is to get a super nice handling buggy.
Started with the back end. Opened up the rear diff and it looked quite OK.

A little bit of wear on the crown gear and pinion (one spot) but I decided not to replace it yet. There where no shims outside of the crown gear (manual says to use 2 0.2 shims.) and I expect this caused the wear. So I experimented a bit. In the end I settled for one shim and the mesh seemed to be much better. If it doesn’t work I have a spare crowgear and pinion ready.

I really don’t like cleaning diff gears, cups and housing but it’s part of the job, and the end result is always satisfying

 

[gotnitro]

Nice! Maybe you can help me with the set up once it’s finished. The goal is to get a super nice handling buggy.

Will you be racing it? If you're going to bash that buggy, you'll need a totally different set up.

Here's what mine was set up at for racing. I pretty much do the same with a few minor tweaks with 1/8th buggies. If you're going to eyeball these settings, it's going to be hard. Need a set up station to dial in any race buggy properly.

Ride: 27-28mm (bones just under flush center with the ground)

Shocks: stock 3-hole piston 100% rebound 25WT front, 20Wt rear.

Diffs: F-7k, C-5k, R-3k.

F camber -1.5
R camber -2

F toe -1.5
R toe stock default I believe is -2

Front castor, stock default of I believe +2

 

[Double Apex]

It’s won’t be an all out racer but it will be used in track (for fun, not super serious competition).

The goal is to hopefully prove it can sort off hang with the modern buggy’s/ outdrive the modern basher buggies.

Thanks for sharing the setup. Gives me some reference although I don’t have a set up station

 

[gotnitro]

It’s won’t be an all out racer but it will be used in track (for fun, not super serious competition).

The goal is to hopefully prove it can sort off hang with the modern buggy’s/ outdrive the modern basher buggies.

Thanks for sharing the setup. Gives me some reference although I don’t have a set up station

Thats what were here for!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1253336015...oc:2&msclkid=aa7f57b9b91c1cce1ac7346cf62b8373

 

[slick2500]

It’s won’t be an all out racer but it will be used in track (for fun, not super serious competition).

The goal is to hopefully prove it can sort off hang with the modern buggy’s/ outdrive the modern basher buggies.

Thanks for sharing the setup. Gives me some reference although I don’t have a set up station

I can assure you that it will outdrive any basher buggy on the market the closest thing to the Vorza currently available is the TLR Typhon 6s. That might be a little better as it has 4mm driveshafts while the Vorza are 3.5mm.

 

[Double Apex]

I can assure you that it will outdrive any basher buggy on the market the closest thing to the Vorza currently available is the TLR Typhon 6s. That might be a little better as it has 4mm driveshafts while the Vorza are 3.5mm.

The Arrma Typhon rear driveshafts are 91 mm the Vorza has 90mm driveshafts, would it work if I used the Arrma ones?

 

[slick2500]

The Arrma Typhon rear driveshafts are 91 mm the Vorza has 90mm driveshafts, would it work if I used the Arrma ones?

I don't think they will work only because the stub axles are different. I never used the dog bones I ran HB Racing 92mm cvds on all 4 corners so I don't have any way to check.

 

[Double Apex]

Ah Ok, ik meant the rear dogbones. The ones in the car are still fine and it came with a spare set. So I will use these first.

In the mean time I opened up the two center diffs the care came with. It appeared as if they still had the stock fluids/grease in them and not much of it.

The spur gear of the spare center diff was damaged and needed replacement. I ordered a 46 t spur for it so switching between the stock 48 and 46 will be just a matter of swapping de center diff.

While cleaning everything I found out de Arrma BLX diff gaskets are the same size as the HPI ones. So hopefully the spur gears are interchangeable too. Good to know since they are about 10 euro cheaper and easier to get.

 

[slick2500]

Ah Ok, ik meant the rear dogbones. The ones in the car are still fine and it came with a spare set. So I will use these first.

In the mean time I opened up the two center diffs the care came with. It appeared as if they still had the stock fluids/grease in them and not much of it.


View attachment 273959

The spur gear of the spare center diff was damaged and needed replacement. I ordered a 46 t spur for it so switching between the stock 48 and 46 will be just a matter of swapping de center diff.

While cleaning everything I found out de Arrma BLX diff gaskets are the same size as the HPI ones. So hopefully the spur gears are interchangeable too. Good to know since they are about 10 euro cheaper and easier to get.

The HPI spur fits on the Arrma diff cup but I did not try to assemble a diff with it on it so not sure if it keeps the planetary gear at the proper depth.

 

[Double Apex]

started with the rear A-arms today. Everything had to be cleaned first ofcourse. I was lucky enough to find a nice deal on some HB aluminium rear hubs. When installing I noticed they only have one height option for the pin. This will make the car a bit lower and (as far as I know) give it a bit more traction on surfaces that are not too bumpy.

The hubs also come with some grub screws. Not sure what to do with them. In the end I decided to use them in the holes leading to the pin to prevent dirt from getting in. I didn’t tighten them too much as that would restrict movement of the hub (hoping the loctite will keep them in place)

Any suggestions as what to do with these grub screws are welcome

I also wasn’t sure about what spacers to use in front and behind the hub. For now I used the biggest spacer in front and the mid sized spacer behind the hub. My guess is moving the hub more to the back will make the car a bit more stable and moving it to the front will make it turn a bit quicker. Is this correct?

And the end result, nice and shiny:

 

[slick2500]

Those grub screws are to lock the hub to the pin, the pin will spin just fine I have the same ones.

 

[Double Apex]

Those grub screws are to lock the hub to the pin, the pin will spin just fine I have the same ones.

So, if I understand correctly, the hub does not rotate around the axle but the axle rotates in de A-arm (together with the hub)

 

[Glenn75]

On my Vorza the spacers on hubs have to go at the rear to stop the drive shaft rubbing on the bottom of the shock, just something to check before you run it.

 

[slick2500]

So, if I understand correctly, the hub does not rotate around the axle but the axle rotates in de A-arm (together with the hub)

Yeah the pin will rotate in the a arm.

 

[Double Apex]

On my Vorza the spacers on hubs have to go at the rear to stop the drive shaft rubbing on the bottom of the shock, just something to check before you run it.

Good to know, thanks. I’ll check before I ride it.

 

[Double Apex]

I’ve been a bit short on time last week so I spend my time disasembeling the frontend. As I learned with other cars you always find little mistakes the previous owner made:

 

[gotnitro]

You talking about the Phillips heads or the grub screws being so tight the sway's don't even move? Or the front hinge pin retainer plate being upside down?

 

[Double Apex]

Spend the rest of the week getting the motor mount of the chassis, one worn out and severely loctited screw at a time

The previous owner thought it was a goog idea to paint the underside of the chassis black. I spent some time trying to get it off but I created a lot of fine dust so decided to leave it for now. Hopefully it will come off when i run the car in sand.