Infraction data log help

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Ripple is too high as well.
You are at 10-15%, you want to be below 5% from what I know. Could be 2 things, either cables are too long (ESC to cap-pack) or not enough capacitance.
 
So maybe I will turn off the LVC and shorten my wires. They are too long for sure. Up until now it hasn’t been a hurdle but I can see now that every detail will be important.
 
jondilly1974 said:
So maybe I will turn off the LVC and shorten my wires. They are too long for sure. Up until now it hasn’t been a hurdle but I can see now that every detail will be important.
Click to expand...
LVC should definitely be off; that might immediately help you power-wise. How long are your wires, if I may? Also what gauge? I know at some point only 10-8 gauge should be used for 1/8 setups.
 
The Donut Man said:
LVC should definitely be off; that might immediately help you power-wise. How long are your wires, if I may? Also what gauge? I know at some point only 10-8 gauge should be used for 1/8 setups.
Click to expand...
F8CEB65D-42AE-4C3C-B9D3-6F7DC4D88533.jpeg
 
LibertyMKiii said:
Looks good to me! Did you 3d print battery cases? That is great!!!
Click to expand...
Yes they are to allow the straps to hold these giant CNHL 6000mah packs upright. I think I might do a bottom tray too. They did move a little in the crash and I would prefer they didn’t. I still think I could turn the Ripple Killer around and directly solder it to the MMX8S leads. When I first did this setup, I was using the MM2R and sharing a cap pack between the T3SGT. Now this one stays. No reason it needs XT150 plugs. I might redo this today if I have enough wire on hand. I may just run down to the car audio shop and grab some 10awg silicone wire. The ultra fine wire so it’s really flexible. I really hate the thick stuff that doesn’t bend.
 
jondilly1974 said:
Here is a log from a pass after shortening the wires. Heat crept up due to leaves and grass blocking my fan.
Click to expand...
Leaves are a killer!

At any rate, your ripple improved significantly from previously 3.3 to now 2.4V, just by shortening the wires. Suggest to add additional caps to get you below the 5% range. Take it with a grain of salt, I do not know what the 'best' value is but at some point is diminished return and you will never be zero.
That is the only thing left in the electronics that is impacting you.

The current seems cut off and that can't be real. My guess, you are out of range of the measurement capability.
Seems like you are playing with the throttle i.e. leveling off and than punching it again, that kills it for a speed run.

Your current seems extremely high, you are close to killing something.
 
jkflow said:
Leaves are a killer!

At any rate, your ripple improved significantly from previously 3.3 to now 2.4V, just by shortening the wires. Suggest to add additional caps to get you below the 5% range. Take it with a grain of salt, I do not know what the 'best' value is but at some point is diminished return and you will never be zero.
That is the only thing left in the electronics that is impacting you.

The current seems cut off and that can't be real. My guess, you are out of range of the measurement capability.
Seems like you are playing with the throttle i.e. leveling off and than punching it again, that kills it for a speed run.

Your current seems extremely high, you are close to killing something.
Click to expand...
Yeah I’m planning on gearing down for my next pass. Hoping that helps. As far as throttle pulling it still isn’t going 100% straight under throttle and I tend to let it recover before putting more power into it. As many passes as I’ve made to date, it’s still a learning process. Seeing guys like Phil and Raz making pristine passes makes me realize just how far I have to go.
 
jondilly1974 said:
Ok wires are shortened. As short as I care to anyways.

View attachment 104689
Click to expand...
what's the second servo for??
also - very clean set up. my soldering skills won't allow for so close a 3 way to the ESC yet...any tips - are you using some sort of connector?
 
sleekone said:
what's the second servo for??
also - very clean set up. my soldering skills won't allow for so close a 3 way to the ESC yet...any tips - are you using some sort of connector?
Click to expand...
Second servo is the hand brake for the V2. I use it to avoid adding heat to the motor during braking.

As far as the wiring, I just used a razor and stripped off a small section of the jacket as close to the ESC as I felt was safe. You don’t want to risk melting the solder on the wire to the ESC board. You need to tin this area and the end of the cap pack wire. They will join easily if tinned well.

You will need some shrink tubing to cover the new splice. That will need to slide over the wires before soldering and it needs to be far enough away from the solder joint to not get hot enough to shrink until you want it to.
 
jondilly1974 said:
You will need some shrink tubing to cover the new splice. That will need to slide over the wires before soldering and it needs to be far enough away from the solder joint to not get hot enough to shrink until you want it to.
Click to expand...

That is the tricky part...
 
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.

Similar threads

Notorious J
Limitless What's the shortcut for clearing Castle data logs with your transmitter - solved
Replies
3
Views
556
Engineer
Engineer
neighborhater383ci
Vendetta The Vendaton keeps blowing over… help!
Replies
7
Views
284
neighborhater383ci
neighborhater383ci
aaronass
Limitless Drive shaft help
2
Replies
28
Views
679
LibertyMKiii
LibertyMKiii
TN-RC
Limitless Speed list help
Replies
18
Views
491
TN-RC
TN-RC
wadedog
Typhon Need some help
Replies
8
Views
633
Vulthraxis
V
Back
Top