Talion Dismantling Steering Post On Talion

[ck.tan]

hi, does anyone know how to dismantle the steering posts on the talion v3 ? on mine, one is stuck to the chassis while the other is stuck to the top plate. the steering posts would turn when i turn the screws with a hex wrench. if possible i try not to use a pair of pliers to avoid leaving "bite marks" on the posts.

it will be great if the steering post design is such that its inner wall is of hex shape to form a hex socket that would accept a hex wrench. unfortunately that is not the case, otherwise it would have been much easier.

many thanks in advance !!

 

[WoodiE]

@ck.tan I would use a pair of pliers and either a piece of rubber or a rag to protect the post then use your hex drive to remove the screw. That should protect the post from any scratches.

 

[Jerry-rigged]

If you have, or can get, some shock shaft plyers, they can grip without marring the shaft.

Also, don't forget to apply heat to release the factory threadlocker.

 

[ck.tan]

cool, much appreciated Jerry and WoodiE, will give those a try and update here again, possibly over the weekend ...

 

[RCROD]

hi, does anyone know how to dismantle the steering posts on the talion v3 ? on mine, one is stuck to the chassis while the other is stuck to the top plate. the steering posts would turn when i turn the screws with a hex wrench. if possible i try not to use a pair of pliers to avoid leaving "bite marks" on the posts.

it will be great if the steering post design is such that its inner wall is of hex shape to form a hex socket that would accept a hex wrench. unfortunately that is not the case, otherwise it would have been much easier.

many thanks in advance !!

I agree with jerry-rigged, that shock shaft pliers should work great and not mark the posts at all. However, why are you trying to remove your steering posts? I gather you are just trying to change the bearings? The post still on your chassis should be ok as is and no reason to remove, unless it is damaged or you are changing the chassis? Why is the steering post still attached to your steering bellcrank? You should only need to remove the steering bellcrank (remove the 4 top screws on the red aluminum Front Plate, and the entire bellcrank should just slide right up), as no need to remove either steering posts? Did you try and remove the top screw on the bellcrank, before removing the screw underneath holding the steering post on the chassis? If not, I would reinstall the entire assembly, and remove the top screw on the bellcrank, as this screw should be easy to remove, especially compared to the screw you removed under the chassis holding the steering post.

If you are upgrading the stock steering bushings to bearings, I found 6.1x11x.15mm shims worked really well. These shims have the perfect I.D. & O.D., I believe. To ensure super slippery smoothness, I used two (2) of these .15mm shims on just the servo arm side of the bellcrank. Two (2) of these seemed like the perfect thickness (total .30mm) and the other side needed no shims. These shims come in AE's 8th scale diff shim kit (#89108)

 

[ck.tan]

hey @RCROD, i was going to stick chassis protector sticker film and thought a clean bath will make the chassis grease-free for a better adhesion. therefore was thinking of dismantling it down to bare chassis b4 washing it. but i left the post there and went on with the wash-up and installing the film. but i did pick up a pair of the pliers later on as it can be a useful addition to toolbox.

i also do not want to leave the post still attached to the bell-crank. but since the post is not being "pegged" at all on either end, when i applied torque to both hex wrenches, the screw that was more loosely held to the post always came loose first. i do not know how to control which one to come loose first.

and thanks for the info on the shims

 

[ck.tan]

i heated the post that was stuck to the chassis and was finally able to remove it with the pliers and hex wrenh. without heating, it was just too tight to possibly come loose

 

[RCROD]

i heated the post that was stuck to the chassis and was finally able to remove it with the pliers and hex wrenh. without heating, it was just too tight to possibly come loose

Although I'm sure Arrma used blue threadlock on the steering posts, I'm glad to hear you got it removed. I did have to use heat on the pinion grub screw (Arrma used red threadlock), as I changed to a larger pinion. I also used heat on the Input Shaft Cup (AR310432), as Arrma used red threadlock here also. I had to remove the input shaft cup, as I changed the 15x21x4mm & 8x19x6mm bearings to Fast Eddy bearings on the Main Input Gear (AR310468), which are inside the gearbox.

I used a soldering gun (adjustable heat) and I have multiple solder tips (10) to choose from, so had the correct size tip to fit perfectly fit into the scrub screw heads. Less than 10secs and both scrub screws easily removed, and the motor did not even get warm at all, when I removed the old pinion. Since this method worked so well, I used red threadlock on the new pinion and also when I reinstalled the Input Shaft Cup, knowing they would not come loose, but can still be removed later.

 

[ck.tan]

cool, i could use a soldering iron too next time to melt the threadlock on the steering post that is still stuck to the top plate. may pop by a LHS for this as i don't have a soldering iron. not planning on getting one atm.

how long have you been using the Fast Eddy bearings ? would you recommend them ? thanks !!

 

[RCROD]

cool, i could use a soldering iron too next time to melt the threadlock on the steering post that is still stuck to the top plate. may pop by a LHS for this as i don't have a soldering iron. not planning on getting one atm.

how long have you been using the Fast Eddy bearings ? would you recommend them ? thanks !!

I have only been using the Fast Eddy bearings for a couple of months now, and haven't heard of any problems about them. The price for their rubber sealed bearings works out to about $1 a bearing, which is very reasonable. Being rubber sealed, they are just a bit lighter than the stock bearings & should hold out the dirt, but I have not used long enough to test their durability over time.

I used to always be worried about removing any RED threadlock, but not now, after finding how well a solder gun and correct size solder tips work. Here is what I am using:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/solderi...ge-us-warehouse.html?wrh_pdp=3&___store=en_us
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/soldering-iron-tip-set-10-pcs.html?wrh_pdp=3&___store=en_us

 

[ck.tan]

awesome ! thanks again mate !