Kraton Driveshaft Pops Out

[KnowAir]

What about the option of adding shims to the CVD as shown below. Any downside?
View attachment 365682

Shimming there will cause potential clearance issues at the hub adapter on the other side of the stub axle though. If removing the spacers from behind the pivot balls at the arm doesn't do it, you can shave material from the end of the arm to allow the pivot ball to allow the hub to be moved closer to the diff, increasing dogbone/cup engagement. A little a time though, too much will create other issues, such as broken cups from the dogbone contacting the cup. It's a critical balance, too little engagement ant the dogbone pops out, too much and you start breaking diff output cups.

Also, I was just scrutinizing the first picture you posted above. You most definitely need to limit your shock compression. Your lower a-arm is all chewed up on the top under the cup from contact with the outdrive. I’d bet dollars to donuts that your axles are popping on compression, not extension. I had exactly this same situation with a NOTO that I bought from another forum member. It also came with RPM arms, and they were chewed up in exactly the same place. I tried readjusting droop, pulled the pivot ball rings, and still couldn’t get more than 3 or 4 minutes into a pack without popping out the front right drive shaft.

Possibly, but once the dogbone slips out of the cup it usually ends up jammed between the cup and lower arm. So driving for even a few seconds before realizing something is amiss will cause the arm to get chewed up like that too. After the dogbone has slipped out a couple times the arm looks like that. Mine do. Even though I haven't had a dogbone problem in over a year. The scars remain, LOL.

 

[332_RC]

Also, I was just scrutinizing the first picture you posted above. You most definitely need to limit your shock compression. Your lower a-arm is all chewed up on the top under the cup from contact with the outdrive. I’d bet dollars to donuts that your axles are popping on compression, not extension. I had exactly this same situation with a NOTO that I bought from another forum member. It also came with RPM arms, and they were chewed up in exactly the same place. I tried readjusting droop, pulled the pivot ball rings, and still couldn’t get more than 3 or 4 minutes into a pack without popping out the front right drive shaft.

The domed droop screws I added helped with that alot! Better on compression & droop. Removing the pillow ball shims did too.

 

[NitroK]

Also, I was just scrutinizing the first picture you posted above. You most definitely need to limit your shock compression. Your lower a-arm is all chewed up on the top under the cup from contact with the outdrive. I’d bet dollars to donuts that your axles are popping on compression, not extension. I had exactly this same situation with a NOTO that I bought from another forum member. It also came with RPM arms, and they were chewed up in exactly the same place. I tried readjusting droop, pulled the pivot ball rings, and still couldn’t get more than 3 or 4 minutes into a pack without popping out the front right drive shaft.

Exactly @Dan B. Thanks. On full compression, they are barely holding on for dear life. Any reason why its the front right shaft?

Shimming there will cause potential clearance issues at the hub adapter on the other side of the stub axle though. If removing the spacers from behind the pivot balls at the arm doesn't do it, you can shave material from the end of the arm to allow the pivot ball to allow the hub to be moved closer to the diff, increasing dogbone/cup engagement. A little a time though, too much will create other issues, such as broken cups from the dogbone contacting the cup. It's a critical balance, too little engagement ant the dogbone pops out, too much and you start breaking diff output cups.


Possibly, but once the dogbone slips out of the cup it usually ends up jammed between the cup and lower arm. So driving for even a few seconds before realizing something is amiss will cause the arm to get chewed up like that too. After the dogbone has slipped out a couple times the arm looks like that. Mine do. Even though I haven't had a dogbone problem in over a year. The scars remain, LOL.

Thanks for the info about shimming the hub adapter. Full shock compression is where I think the issue is. Will take some time and sort this problem out slowly.

 

[Dales396lt4]

I added bump stops to the bottom of my shocks. Haven’t had an issue cents.

 

[Dan B.]

Exactly @Dan B. Thanks. On full compression, they are barely holding on for dear life. Any reason why its the front right shaft?

Nope. If you figure it out please let me know. I’m tempted to get into a highly scientific yet somewhat subjective hypothesis based on the opposite R/L rotation as it relates to the rotation of the earth on its current 23.5° off-axis configuration , but it could be utterly unrelated, so I’ll have to process that more at a later date.
It was easier for me to just get rid of those rotten RPM arms and rebuild the entire front end of that NOTO to specs that made sense to me and move on with my life.

I added bump stops to the bottom of my shocks. Haven’t had an issue cents.

That’s what she said.

 

[slick2500]

Not to get too far off track here but, I would like to see Arrma do better in this area, secured spring perches and steel pivot balls. I see even TRX has stepped up their game on the later models such as the Sledge, Maxx, ect. Too bad they refuse to put on aluminum shock caps though. Unless of course one wants to pay the "ultimate price"!!

Are the stock ones basically like other plastic caps where they just pop off?

I added bump stops to the bottom of my shocks. Haven’t had an issue cents.

Yeah that helps as well.

 

[KnowAir]

Are the stock ones basically like other plastic caps where they just pop off?


Yeah that helps as well.

I haven't heard any complaints from my brother about them popping off, just breaking them in collisions mainly. I still have yet to break a plastic shock cap on any of my rc's. Tekno, Redcat or TRX Xmaxx. I'm not the hardest of bashers by any means myself though.

Wait, I stand corrected, I did have a Tekno cap come off once, I remember now that it made quite a mess.. I did just refill and thread it back on since it wasn't actually broken. I'm sure the threads are compromised, but it's held without leaking.

 

[HoppyHop84]

I added bump stops to the bottom of my shocks. Haven’t had an issue cents.

^This a added a 5mm(ish) washer at the bottom of each of my front shock shafts and have not had issues since. Literally just got home from beating the piss out of my kraton with RPM upper and lowers. no issues.