Big Rock Early Christmas present I'm not allowed to use yet ☺️

[ChriswithaC]

So she's been out and bashed twice and wow I love this car , very stable in comparison to my Vorteks and feels quick and nimble in the same breathe . I'm really happy with it .

Also added some protection to the body today from a custom 3d printed company.

 

[RadioHacktive]

Longer wheelbase and wider track are two keys to stability. Probably a little heavier than the Vorteks as well which doesn't hurt the "planted" feel either.

 

[RCbuzz]

Wow those skid plates look great! Are they TPU (flexible?) Ebay?

 

[Johnny b]

Happy belated birthday! As I was reading your thread, I was going to ask if you were going to break into that box before Christmas! Hell yes you did! Enjoy!

 

[SrC]

Yea get the Smart programmer, if you are all into the Smart Spektrum thing. A programmer for any specific brand ESC is the best way to set ESC Parameters.
I don't believe Spektrum really is up to date with their F/W's last I heard. Not much support anyway. Pretty much their F/W is locked to one revision. Don't quote me. Look into this if it matters much to you.
I have a Firma 150 here and will consider replacing it when the time comes. HW for me.

 

[ChriswithaC]

Longer wheelbase and wider track are two keys to stability. Probably a little heavier than the Vorteks as well which doesn't hurt the "planted" feel either.

Yeah really does seem to be helping alot . I'm considering replacing my Vorteks chassis so it feels like this one also .
I've already got the arms to go on anyways .

Wow those skid plates look great! Are they TPU (flexible?) Ebay?

Yes buddy I believe so , they do have some give to them not massive though .
And yes buddy eBay I can send you the link if you like .

Happy belated birthday! As I was reading your thread, I was going to ask if you were going to break into that box before Christmas! Hell yes you did! Enjoy!

Thanks buddy really enjoying it , one of my favourite RCs out the box for sure .

Yea get the Smart programmer, if you are all into the Smart Spektrum thing. A programmer for any specific brand ESC is the best way to set ESC Parameters.
I don't believe Spektrum really is up to date with their F/W's last I heard. Not much support anyway. Pretty much their F/W is locked to one revision. Don't quote me. Look into this if it matters much to you.
I have a Firma 150 here and will consider replacing it when the time comes. HW for me.

The funny thing is that it does seem to need a update , as it's the same as what I bought for my Frankenstein Vorteks Boost and the boost has more settings .
I think I'll pick up a programmer asap as I have two of the same ESCs now .

 

[ChriswithaC]

So update time guys and merry Christmas to you all my Arrma brothers and sisters.

I've done a few little upgrades to the big rock.

Metal pivot balls
Surpass Rocket motor fan
Rear dirt guards
Jetko Tomahawks MTs wheels and tyres

It really has made a difference to the feel of the car no slop at all .

 

[RadioHacktive]

Did you print those dirt guards or did you purchase from someone who did?

 

[ChriswithaC]

Did you print those dirt guards or did you purchase from someone who did?

Purchased them buddy , and to be fair there a great fit also . Would you like a link to eBay for them ?

 

[RadioHacktive]

I'd imagine they'd fit a Vorteks after the Typhon arm mod, yeah? If so, please.

 

[ChriswithaC]

I'd imagine they'd fit a Vorteks after the Typhon arm mod, yeah? If so, please.

They sure will buddy , I've done the same with my Vorteks and they fit just great .

They sure will buddy , I've done the same with my Vorteks and they fit just great .

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/17467957...ujh-yrcStq&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

[Velodromed]

I'd imagine they'd fit a Vorteks after the Typhon arm mod, yeah? If so, please.

I cut all mine from .080 Kydex and they work great. Tin snips easily cut the Kydex and I use a Dremel flapper wheel to finish shaping.

 

[ChriswithaC]

So yesterday,, it's still raining heavy so decided to take apart the rock and service the diffs .

Seems like I missed them on my first run checks that I normally do , typical Arrma looks like the assembly lines ng spat in them before sending it out .
So used 15k at front and 10k at rear .

Also postal guys came this morning with my servo upgrade.
Decided to get one of these JX Eco Boost cls6322HV that everyone's been talking about .
Let's see what there about

 

[bukshypro]

So yesterday,, it's still raining heavy so decided to take apart the rock and service the diffs .
View attachment 265951


View attachment 265953View attachment 265952
Seems like I missed them on my first run checks that I normally do , typical Arrma looks like the assembly lines ng spat in them before sending it out .
So used 15k at front and 10k at rear .

Also postal guys came this morning with my servo upgrade.
Decided to get one of these JX Eco Boost cls6322HV that everyone's been talking about .
Let's see what there about



View attachment 265954

Hey man!

Nice to hear from you!! Well done on all those upgrades, they look so damn good!! Servo, pivot balls, dirt guards. I got some questions tho:

do the pivot balls fix the crappy wobbling that was there with the plastic ones? I wonder whether the plastic pivot balls got smaller or the rod ends hole got bigger. The wobbliness on my Vorteks is killing me.

Second question: how is the new servo? That looks like a super cheap solution, same from Savox is more like £80-90 and doesn't even work with the stock ESC cuz it wants 6Amp ;(

Third question: how are you doing, keeping up w the Tomahawk tires? I broke my rear input gear (in the diff) second time already and I think it was because these Tomahawks are too heavy. I had punch set to lvl 3-4, motor timing down to 15% and the car had an absolutely insane torque. We re talking standing backflips even on the rainly tarmac. But then 3-4 packs through and it broke the rear diff twice. Some extra info regarding this: both times this happened in relatively wet grass and batteries were running out in 5-6 min both times. Rear diff was 20k silicone, super tight like it should be and greased decently. I can only wonder what you do differently because it didnt break for you. One thing I noticed, like I said, weight is +400gr because of the super heavy JetKo Tomahawks 2.8"

Btw I bought full metal rear diff components. So metal yoke, metal crown and input gear so will be giving it a rip again soon to see if it holds up.

Also, how is your diff case white?

 

[ChriswithaC]

Hey man!

Nice to hear from you!! Well done on all those upgrades, they look so damn good!! Servo, pivot balls, dirt guards. I got some questions tho:

do the pivot balls fix the crappy wobbling that was there with the plastic ones? I wonder whether the plastic pivot balls got smaller or the rod ends hole got bigger. The wobbliness on my Vorteks is killing me.

Second question: how is the new servo? That looks like a super cheap solution, same from Savox is more like £80-90 and doesn't even work with the stock ESC cuz it wants 6Amp ;(

Third question: how are you doing, keeping up w the Tomahawk tires? I broke my rear input gear (in the diff) second time already and I think it was because these Tomahawks are too heavy. I had punch set to lvl 3-4, motor timing down to 15% and the car had an absolutely insane torque. We re talking standing backflips even on the rainly tarmac. But then 3-4 packs through and it broke the rear diff twice. Some extra info regarding this: both times this happened in relatively wet grass and batteries were running out in 5-6 min both times. Rear diff was 20k silicone, super tight like it should be and greased decently. I can only wonder what you do differently because it didnt break for you. One thing I noticed, like I said, weight is +400gr because of the super heavy JetKo Tomahawks 2.8"

Btw I bought full metal rear diff components. So metal yoke, metal crown and input gear so will be giving it a rip again soon to see if it holds up.

Also, how is your diff case white?

Hey buddy , long time no speak , sorry for the late reply . I've been busy over Christmas and working etc .
So yeah the pivot balls , there great they seem to have taken the wobbly feeling out of the truck alot , I've ran it a few times and it's a very positive thumbs up from me on them , so much so I've ordered another set for my Vorteks .
As for the Tomahawks yeah I got to agree with you they are heavy tires but having said that so far the cars seems to be ok with them , but I'm not going to hold my breath on them just yet still plenty of time to brake stuff hey .

Now one thing to mention here is I don't run the same motor as you so maybe I lack in torque hence why the car isn't eating itself input gears wise .

One thing mind I did do , well not me actually is that myself and my daughter went for a tarmac run a few days ago and she was using the Vorteks and I used the big rock , and she sent it full beans down a perfect flat part of the car park and straight in to the brcc and we ended up with a fatality , shame that arrma has used such shoddy aluminium on the motor mount , I noticed the brcc was making a funny noise and stopped it . Luckily it had not eaten the spur and I've now replaced it with a upgrade from https://customrcupgrades.com/product/arrma-3s-and-4s-motor-mount/

Really impressed with it as it's very strong made from 7075 aluminium and he's also counter sunk the motor screws .

I've also ordered a rear set of rpm arms to go with the fronts I have , I'm going to use them on the big rock , and the Vorteks now is set to be converted to a 3s Typhon , so I'll have the best of both worlds .

I'll do a build thread on that when I start getting all the parts together.

But my theroy is that the Vorteks becoming a Typhon and also owning a big rock I'll get two totally different feeling cars to run , plus it will also keep me busy in the process .
Hope your well buddy .
Chris

Also side note really impressed with the JX eco Boost servo I purchased for the big rock it's superb . Very fast and strong .
Plus I've ordered a metal spur and slipper clutch assembly that should be here any time soon .

 

[Velodromed]

But my theroy is that the Vorteks becoming a Typhon and also owning a big rock

They are pretty similar actually, because both have the long wheelbase chassis and long arms. If you want different, turn it into a granite. That way you have a short wheel base and long wheelbase, two completely different critters. The vorteks already has a short wheelbase chassis. So all you need are granite towers and slap on a set of 6s shocks (mojave fronts up front and 6s Kraton fronts at the rear) and, if you want, long arms/tutnbuckles. Then you’ll have two cars with a completely different feel.

 

[bukshypro]

Was about to say, if you make the Vorteks long arma, thats the same as BR w shorter chassis. Because BR and Typhon are already sharing the arms.


Btw, what motor do you use in your Vorteks? Because I really want to math it out why this happens. Because its weird. The big tomahawk tires are heavy yes, but they wouldnt had traction or grass but blew the rear diff, then the louise rc mt mcrosa had too big traction and it thats why its blowing diffs. And this is a paradox for me.

Again, problem is I don't have goos place to rip so I can either fo grass or tarmac. Tarmac is not fun anymore ;/


Btw I suggest against the metal spur gear. Id rather leave that as the weakest part because thats the cheapest to replace. If a diff blows, thats a lot of work even a the composite housing+crow gear + input gear or if you buy it assembled its about £50-80. So while I actually got a metal spur gear, I don't use it

 

[Velodromed]

Was about to say, if you make the Vorteks long arma, thats the same as BR w shorter chassis. Because BR and Typhon are already sharing the arms.


Btw, what motor do you use in your Vorteks? Because I really want to math it out why this happens. Because its weird. The big tomahawk tires are heavy yes, but they wouldnt had traction or grass but blew the rear diff, then the louise rc mt mcrosa had too big traction and it thats why its blowing diffs. And this is a paradox for me.

Again, problem is I don't have goos place to rip so I can either fo grass or tarmac. Tarmac is not fun anymore ;/


Btw I suggest against the metal spur gear. Id rather leave that as the weakest part because thats the cheapest to replace. If a diff blows, thats a lot of work even a the composite housing+crow gear + input gear or if you buy it assembled its about £50-80. So while I actually got a metal spur gear, I don't use it

I like the surpass rocket 3665, 3100kv motor in my mostly stock vorteks. With heavy tires I’d run a 13-14t pinion and loosen the slipper slightly. Slipper pads can be sanded and are cheaper than diffs and driveshafts.

To totally stop the diff issues you need a metal diff yoke on the rear, shim the diff tighter and you’ll have to check it at least every month as it wears in. The front is fine with the stock diff yoke and servicing every couple months. Also top off the diff oil in both if you haven’t.

I’ve been trying minimal grease around the ring gear lately and it works better. Just smear some around the ring gear that’s it. When you service it, get all the compacted, old grease out from between the gear teeth before putting new on.

A metal spur is fine but not needed. The composites last a long time with good, solid mesh and a straight mount. I think it’s better to put money towards the rear diff if on a budget, like an Arrma cnc metal diff for the rear. Those are very nice. Be careful about adding to much weight also as it affects the cars handling.

You’ll need new turnbuckles with the arms. Traxxas 4x4 rustler and 4x4 slash turnbuckles work with the long arms and already have metal balls. They are a bit stronger also. My mostly stock vorteks has wide arms and it’s great.

 

[bukshypro]

I like the surpass rocket 3665, 3100kv motor in my mostly stock vorteks. With heavy tires I’d run a 13-14t pinion and loosen the slipper slightly. Slipper pads can be sanded and are cheaper than diffs and driveshafts.

To totally stop the diff issues you need a metal diff yoke on the rear, shim the diff tighter and you’ll have to check it at least every month as it wears in. The front is fine with the stock diff yoke and servicing every couple months. Also top off the diff oil in both if you haven’t.

I’ve been trying minimal grease around the ring gear lately and it works better. Just smear some around the ring gear that’s it. When you service it, get all the compacted, old grease out from between the gear teeth before putting new on.

A metal spur is fine but not needed. The composites last a long time with good, solid mesh and a straight mount. I think it’s better to put money towards the rear diff if on a budget, like an Arrma cnc metal diff for the rear. Those are very nice. Be careful about adding to much weight also as it affects the cars handling.

You’ll need new turnbuckles with the arms. Traxxas 4x4 rustler and 4x4 slash turnbuckles work with the long arms and already have metal balls. They are a bit stronger also. My mostly stock vorteks has wide arms and it’s great.

So much useful information!! Thanks. What do you think of the arrma 4s driveshafts? Or do the 6s driveshafts fit into Vorteks?
Also, is it this one?
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/produc...heavy-duty-rear-driveshaft-assembly-1--436009


https://www.modelsport.co.uk/produc...eavy-duty-front-driveshaft-assembly-1--436010

 

[Velodromed]

So much useful information!! Thanks. What do you think of the arrma 4s driveshafts? Or do the 6s driveshafts fit into Vorteks?
Also, is it this one?
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/produc...heavy-duty-rear-driveshaft-assembly-1--436009


https://www.modelsport.co.uk/produc...eavy-duty-front-driveshaft-assembly-1--436010

Well…look these over. My custom 4s builds. Both are running the new 4s drive shafts among other parts. I have all sorts of fun with 3 and 4s parts,

I meant the rustler and slash turnbuckles, not driveshafts. Sorry if i was confusing.

Thread '4s Velo scratch build, LWB chassis (Old Yeller)'
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/4s-velo-scratch-build-lwb-chassis-old-yeller.56168/

Thread '4s hybrid Vorteks…Thing (another Velo build)'
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/4s-hybrid-vorteks…thing-another-velo-build.58380/