Notorious Few problems with new notorious

[lazyswordfish]

Hi! I recently bought Notorius, and i have a few problems.

1. Strange noise from center diff
2. Reverse runs after a few taps as if something is jammed in diff
3. Overtighten screws, can't remove center diff and motor (

video link

Thanks for your help )

 

[ninadada]

1. Smart idea to post a vid. Easier to diagnose. Sound appears normal but wouldn't hurt to check diff oil level. Some have mentioned under filled diffs from factory.
2. First trigger forward is the brake. Release and push forward again to reverse, so basically 2 times forward to get into reverse.
3. Any screw threaded into metal will have red locktite. Two important details to avoid rounding out the hex socket: 1) Use a soldering iron directly onto the screw head for 30-60 seconds to soften the locktite. 2) Use a good quality Hex driver. Fit should be snug. If loose, you'll likely round out the hex socket. MIP drivers are highly recommended by most seasoned RC hobbyists.

Congrats on the new Notorious. You're gonna enjoy it.

 

[CrashBoom]

What he said.

 

[lazyswordfish]

1. Smart idea to post a vid. Easier to diagnose. Sound appears normal but wouldn't hurt to check diff oil level. Some have mentioned under filled diffs from factory.
2. First trigger forward is the brake. Release and push forward again to reverse, so basically 2 times forward to get into reverse.
3. Any screw threaded into metal will have red locktite. Two important details to avoid rounding out the hex socket: 1) Use a soldering iron directly onto the screw head for 30-60 seconds to soften the locktite. 2) Use a good quality Hex driver. Fit should be snug. If loose, you'll likely round out the hex socket. MIP drivers are highly recommended by most seasoned RC hobbyists.

Congrats on the new Notorious. You're gonna enjoy it.

Thanks!! really did not know about brake and reverse ) it is my second TRUE rc car ) first is handmaded axial clone.
So loud clicking noise from center diff on free rolling and moving is normal?

 

[ninadada]

The clicking noise you're hearing is actually from or caused by the brushless motor, even when just free rolling without power. I thought it strange too with my first Arrma. If you detach motor from the spur gear, everything else should roll smooth and quiet. There's a lot to learn about these cars. Discovery is half the fun.

 

[lazyswordfish]

The clicking noise you're hearing is actually from or caused by the brushless motor, even when just free rolling without power. I thought it strange too with my first Arrma. If you detach motor from the spur gear, everything else should roll smooth and quiet. There's a lot to learn about these cars. Discovery is half the fun.

Another half is fear )) "Something wrong with my CAR!!!"
Thanks! You are really helped me ) fear is gone. first ride on the snow will be tomorrow.

 

[ninadada]

Also worth mentioning...after breaking the factory red locktite, reassemble with blue. It'll make it much easier the next go around. The pinion and front and rear diff input cup set screws are notoriously difficult to remove. Use ample heat and you'll probably need more leverage than a just an allen key. A hex bit in a driver or ratchet will likely be needed.

 

[Jimbobjr]

All great advice, I would just add checking your mesh, pinion to spur. Should have a tiny bit of play, if it’s too loose it could cause early failure to you pinion. The 6s Arrmas are a little noisy. Have fun!

 

[Gherik]

my work is blocking the vid but the amount of noise coming from the center alarmed me at first too. metal on metal gears with no lube are noisy. i experimented with lightly lubricating it but it attracted too much dirt and sand. bottom line i figured they would just wear out and i would replace them the cost isn't that bad .

 

[olds97_lss]

my work is blocking the vid but the amount of noise coming from the center alarmed me at first too. metal on metal gears with no lube are noisy. i experimented with lightly lubricating it but it attracted too much dirt and sand. bottom line i figured they would just wear out and i would replace them the cost isn't that bad .

I use a wax based lube on the spur/pinion. Doesn't attract dirt and helps with wear as well as quieting it down some. I apply some after every bash on any truck I drive (if I can easily get at the spur) whether they have plastic or steel spurs.

White Lightning Chain Lube

 

[cootertwo]

What ticks me off on most of those high dollar hex drivers, is that they don't have the hex further up the shaft. So if/when you might round them off, you could just trim the end, and start over. I've received my Just Bash It aluminum chassis and shock towers for my new Kraton, and am dreading tearing it down to rebuild. Micro torch and soldering iron at the ready. Bought a nice set of ball end hex's, and found they snap easily where they are cut down past the ball end.

 

[Jimbobjr]

I was a skeptic about the superiority of the MIP hex drivers but finally broke down and bought a set. They are worth every penny so much so I bought the a set of the speed tips. They only have the hex on the tip but that keeps them from twisting from being too thin.

 

[lazyswordfish]

Thank you all for your advice and help!

 

[Notorious J]

What ticks me off on most of those high dollar hex drivers, is that they don't have the hex further up the shaft. So if/when you might round them off, you could just trim the end, and start over. I've received my Just Bash It aluminum chassis and shock towers for my new Kraton, and am dreading tearing it down to rebuild. Micro torch and soldering iron at the ready. Bought a nice set of ball end hex's, and found they snap easily where they are cut down past the ball end.

I know this goes against what everyone says, but after heating the screws, I use a "good" L shaped allen key to break the seal of the thread lock. I make sure it's seated and straight, and just use it to "crack" the screw loose. The MIP's are great all around, but those plastic handles just don't give me the torque necessary to break loose the screws. The only time I've ever stripped a screw, was forgetting to heat it before I started. Regardless, I keep a full set of screws on hand, bought from Jennys, in case I feel the integrity of the screw has been compromised.

 

[Jimbobjr]

The best L shaped Allen wrenches are made by wiha. They are expensive too, fit nice and tight.

 

[ninadada]

I've received my Just Bash It aluminum chassis and shock towers for my new Kraton, and am dreading tearing it down to rebuild. Micro torch and soldering iron at the ready. Bought a nice set of ball end hex's, and found they snap easily where they are cut down past the ball end.

Do you have a cordless hex bit driver? For me, that made all the difference between dread and enjoyment in performing any maintenance, let alone full tear downs. If I had to start all over, a cordless driver and MIP hex bits are the first tools I would buy. The ball end hex drivers are nice for off-axis situations, but not ideal when high torque is needed.

 

[ninadada]

I know this goes against what everyone says, but after heating the screws, I use a "good" L shaped allen key to break the seal of the thread lock. I make sure it's seated and straight, and just use it to "crack" the screw loose. The MIP's are great all around, but those plastic handles just don't give me the torque necessary to break loose the screws. The only time I've ever stripped a screw, was forgetting to heat it before I started. Regardless, I keep a full set of screws on hand, bought from Jennys, in case I feel the integrity of the screw has been compromised.

I bought just the MIP hex bits and use them in a hex bit driver like this. It's given me sufficient torque to break the red locktite along with heat.

 

[crimsonfancy]

The best L shaped Allen wrenches are made by wiha. They are expensive too, fit nice and tight.

Would you recommend this set in the molybdenum-vanadium steel?
https://www.wihatools.com/hex-short-arm-l-key-nickel-metric-6-piece-set

 

[Jimbobjr]

I like the ones with balls on the long end like these. https://www.wihatools.com/ball-end-hex-l-key-chrome-metric-6-piece-set

 

[olds97_lss]

I like the ones with balls on the long end like these. https://www.wihatools.com/ball-end-hex-l-key-chrome-metric-6-piece-set

Those are good to have on hand, but only use the ball end when you absolutely have to as they are more likely to strip the screw head. They don't have near the contact area of the non-ball end.