Finally bought my V3

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bluedeval03

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Hello fellow Phon'ners.... Finally pulled the plug and bought my first Arrma, now the wait for it to get here blues. I have started to order several of the Hot Racing upgrades front/rear braces, fixed link steering w/servo arm, is it necessary, or as I feel it is, since it going to be in bits and pieces go ahead and install the bellcrank set from HR also?

My intention was to go ahead and swap out the aluminum towers with carbon fiber towers, BUT from what I have been reading, if I do go CF towers, then I need to go ahead and swap out the gearbox/bulkheads with aluminum. Am I thinking correct? or is this all a waste to do on the V3 with the exception of installing the front and rear brace, steering bearings instead of bushings, and upgrade to HR aluminum diff cups??
 

Nucear

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I would say wait until the aluminium towers brake and if they do get the CF ones.

Best regards
Elias.
 
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bluedeval03

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can a single 5s battery be used or does it have to be either a 2s or 4s config
 

chevys10zr2003

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can a single 5s battery be used or does it have to be either a 2s or 4s config
It can run on 5s but you need to switch it to NIMH mode and you will lose the low voltage cutoff and need to run an external voltage alarm. The ESC can sense 3s, 4s and 6s voltages.
 

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The Typhon is probably the most solid of the BLX6s cars. I vote save your money, unless you just like Bling. In which case, Bling away.
Ditto, If it aint broke don't fix it! I can understand upgrading parts as they break or strengthening to save cost in the long run (braces/ bumpers etc) but save your money and enjoy the car as is until that point. Pulling out brand new and perfectly working servo's, suspension and motors never made sense to me unless you are a pro and need too.
 

Voltron7

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As others said, probably don't need the towers until the stock ones bend or break. I did do the CF shock towers after one of mine was bent, and have been fine with the stock bulkheads. I don't ever plan to go to the alum bulkheads. Had lots of jumps and crashes, too, I'm not gentle with my Typhon...

The Typhon is probably the most solid of the BLX6s cars. I vote save your money, unless you just like Bling. In which case, Bling away.
Ditto

It can run on 5s but you need to switch it to NIMH mode and you will lose the low voltage cutoff and need to run an external voltage alarm. The ESC can sense 3s, 4s and 6s voltages.
Wow, I think I trashed a perfectly good 5S because I did not know this...Could that info be made a sticky? (Or is it just common knowledge for most surface RC folk?) It ran for about 30-90 seconds and just quit. It was also puffed out.
 
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bluedeval03

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Thanks again folks. I like having the parts that tend to break on hand. Also is the Mugen 0206 shim kit the only shim set I need? or do I need to purchase a couple of odd balls not in the kit? As for hop ups, I went ahead and ordered HR's front and rear brace, steering set, and diffs. Not a fan of slop in my steering, waiting to see what I need for steering servo, but from what I have gathered so far the Savox 1210 is the way to go.
 

chevys10zr2003

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Wow, I think I trashed a perfectly good 5S because I did not know this...Could that info be made a sticky? (Or is it just common knowledge for most surface RC folk?) It ran for about 30-90 seconds and just quit. It was also puffed out.
It shouldn't have puffed from running it unless you brought the voltage down too low. The reason it ran for that time is because it registers the fully charged 5s battery as a mostly discharged 6s battery. So when you get on the throttle it drops the voltage to low volatge cutoff for a 6s battery.
Thanks again folks. I like having the parts that tend to break on hand. Also is the Mugen 0206 shim kit the only shim set I need? or do I need to purchase a couple of odd balls not in the kit? As for hop ups, I went ahead and ordered HR's front and rear brace, steering set, and diffs. Not a fan of slop in my steering, waiting to see what I need for steering servo, but from what I have gathered so far the Savox 1210 is the way to go.
I have always seen the Savox 1210 recommended and never realized how large of a performance gap there was between 6.0 volts and 7.4 volts. That is pretty crazy.
 
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bluedeval03

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It shouldn't have puffed from running it unless you brought the voltage down too low. The reason it ran for that time is because it registers the fully charged 5s battery as a mostly discharged 6s battery. So when you get on the throttle it drops the voltage to low volatge cutoff for a 6s battery.

I have always seen the Savox 1210 recommended and never realized how large of a performance gap there was between 6.0 volts and 7.4 volts. That is pretty crazy.
yep
https://www.hobbytown.com/sw1210sg-...eel-gear-servo-by-savox-sav-sw-1210sg/p262193
 
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bluedeval03

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Ditto, If it aint broke don't fix it! I can understand upgrading parts as they break or strengthening to save cost in the long run (braces/ bumpers etc) but save your money and enjoy the car as is until that point. Pulling out brand new and perfectly working servo's, suspension and motors never made sense to me unless you are a pro and need too.
is the factory front and rear braces strong enough then? I'm all for not wasting money and that will let me buy other things. I have already placed my order for the SMC 7400mah 4s batteries. Just finalizing other knick knacks at this moment. I haven't seen much mentioned about stock arms not lasting either now that I think about it, so need to get the RPM's on the way?
 

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It shouldn't have puffed from running it unless you brought the voltage down too low. The reason it ran for that time is because it registers the fully charged 5s battery as a mostly discharged 6s battery. So when you get on the throttle it drops the voltage to low volatge cutoff for a 6s battery.
Interesting, that jives exactly with how it behaved...Puffing-maybe it was just a shitty/defective pack...anyway it's been retired permanently...
Sorry for HiJacking
 

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