Vorteks Full list of pre-bash checks ?

[PatMarcus172]

Dear Experts

Well, tomorrow my daughter gets her Pink'n'purple Vorteks and as the complement to my Big Rock, Im obviously Im hopeful its gonna be amazing and that the QC out of the box is spot on.
But Im also a realist, so I thought Id make a list of things to check before we run it hard. Please help me with my compilation :

1. Mesh
2. Check the motor mount isnt bent out of the box
3. Check the pinion is on tightly and loctite if necessary (will try the speed pinion at a later date)
4. Slipper Clutch and then loctite it (as per Razor's video)
5. Check the diffs are full of oil and spinning smoothly - front and back
6. Loctite the drive shafts
7. Check the shocks are full of fluid and add some spacers at the front (how many??)
8. Check the wheel nuts are on tight
9. Steering end points and brake/acceleration setup
10. Check the tyre rubber to see if it needs glue-ing anywhere

Anything else ? I feel like there's more

 

[FlipSide]

Sounds like a great list. You can also check if there is binding at the input gear and crown gear. If it binds, you can back off the screws of the diff yokes a tiny bit to get rid of the binding. I had to do this on my Vorteks.

Keep a close eye on the motor bearings as wells. It is likely the bearing near the shaft will need replacement after only a couple of packs.

 

[Doom!]

11. Batteries and radio charged.

 

[PatMarcus172]

11. Batteries and radio charged.

Yep - that would definitely help !!!!

In fact, Im thinking of treating her to a battery of her own (rather than using one of mine). Ive read that the Vorteks seems to "drink juice" compared to the other 3S models so Im guessing a 6000 mah is probably sensible as a minimum. So, all reccomendations for that, welcome too.

Sounds like a great list. You can also check if there is binding at the input gear and crown gear. If it binds, you can back off the screws of the diff yokes a tiny bit to get rid of the binding. I had to do this on my Vorteks.

Keep a close eye on the motor bearings as wells. It is likely the bearing near the shaft will need replacement after only a couple of packs.

Had to do that on fitting a new diff to my Big Rock so I`ll definitely check that when I oil the diffs !

 

[Edough13]

The slipper has a nut to keep it tight so no need for loctite that would only be for the old v2 versions. As said above check front and rear diffs aren't binding and roll smooth as the Vorteks I just got had binding in both diffs.

 

[Grimbles]

Exciting mate. Tell her I'm jealous about the vorteks!

In fact, Im thinking of treating her to a battery of her own (rather than using one of mine). Ive read that the Vorteks seems to "drink juice" compared to the other 3S models so Im guessing a 6000 mah is probably sensible as a minimum. So, all reccomendations for that, welcome too.

Check your measurements - not all 3s cells have the same dimensions. There are tabs in the 3s chassis you can remove to make the batt tray bigger. I have removed both of mine and have 3m foam stickers to make a couple of my batts bigger. Hobbyking has started its 4 July sale so I'd look for a decent turnigy graphene!

4. Slipper Clutch and then loctite it (as per Razor's video)

New 3s units come with a slipper lock nut so you shouldn't need to do this.
Also 12. SEND IT... and enjoy it

 

[morrjr71]

Check your measurements - not all 3s cells have the same dimensions. There are tabs in the 3s chassis you can remove to make the batt tray bigger. I have removed both of mine and have 3m foam stickers to make a couple of my batts bigger.

I've found that some of the soft packs have larger dimensions than the hard packs. When I first got my Typhon 3s I tried to use a 3s 5000mah soft pack I already had from another vehicle just to get started. I had to take out one of the adapters in the battery tray to make the battery fit. With Zeee 5200mah hard packs I am able to use the battery tray with both adapters installed. The same goes with my newer Zeee 6000mah hard packs.

New 3s units come with a slipper lock nut so you shouldn't need to do this.

I installed a new motor in my Typhon 3s V3 this afternoon, and while I had the power module out I could see the black plastic lock nut in the slipper shaft. Loctite is not used on plastics.

 

[PatMarcus172]

Thanks everyone for your help. Vorteks arrived today and is looking lovely. Let the disassembly and wrenching begin !!

 

[Grimbles]

Splooj

 

[razorrc]

Dear Experts

Yes —

1. Mesh
4. Slipper Clutch
6. Loctite the drive shafts
7. Check the shocks are full of fluid
8. Check the wheel nuts are on tight
9. Steering end points and brake/acceleration setup

Not needed —

2. Check the motor mount isnt bent out of the box
3. Check the pinion is on tightly and loctite if necessary (will try the speed pinion at a later date)
5. Check the diffs are full of oil and spinning smoothly - front and back
10. Check the tyre rubber to see if it needs glue-ing anywhere

NONONONO! -

4. and then loctite it (as per Razor's video)

 

[arrmadillo]

Check all screws that you can get to without disassembling, you'll be surprised how many can be loose.

 

[PatMarcus172]

Yes —


Not needed —


NONONONO! -

I promise I will never go anywhere near the slipper with loctite. I guess it was an old video I was watching.

surprised by the items in “not necessary”.

Grimbles and I were at a bash spot last weekend and a guy turned up with a new Vorteks on which he had done minimal prep. Within 5 minutes, the Vorteks was returned to his van because the pinion had come loose…….(and he swapped it for a Maxx which was a total star).

Given my own recent experiences with catching diffs and diff cases light on fluid, it seemed like a prudent check…..but of course I shouldn’t have to go near them at this early stage.

 

[Enferius]

Don't loctite the slipper. I don't and it holds up just fine. And the only time you need washers on the shocks is if you have rubbing with rhe springs and drive shafts. I had this issue but only because I put EXB shocks on the front of my Big Rock. I needed 4 in total for that.

 

[PatMarcus172]

Please no one else tell me about loctiting the slipper. I wont. I promise.

Don't loctite the slipper. I don't and it holds up just fine. And the only time you need washers on the shocks is if you have rubbing with rhe springs and drive shafts. I had this issue but only because I put EXB shocks on the front of my Big Rock. I needed 4 in total for that.

Thanks. I wasnt intending to use washers on the shocks. I know you don't need to do that unless you need to create additional space when you fit upgraded shocks (like my Typhon 6S shocks on my BR).
I did really mean "spacers." Quite a few Youtubers have suggested using some of the supplier shock spacers on the front shocks of the vorteks and I was wondering how many per side but no one has commented on this particular question so far.

 

[Kla912000]

Oh, you mean the shock preload spacers. Yeah, I don't know how many you should use either.

And hey, please don't put thread lock on your slipper clutch.......