Outcast Getting a new Outcast 4S V2, what are the recommended upgrades?

[Jevge]

After owning a Rival MT10, Maxx v2, TLR 8ight, Kraton EXB, Kronos XTR, taking a 1,5 year break from the hobby and realizing that I don't have the space to run 1/8ths,
I decided to give it another go with an Outcast 4S V2.

Intended use is general backyard and open field bashing on grass, with smaller jumps, some dirt track use, maybe some BMX track action on somewhat harder dirt.
What are the recommended upgrades for what I want to use the truck for?

• I have read the pinion is very weak - is this still true, or has Arrma fixed this?
• Chassis was a problem for some, like @razorrc, are they still the same, i.e. do I need a chassis brace? If yes what are the other options besides m2c? (I'm in EU, m2c not really an option...
• Is the motor mount sturdy enough? Does the motor need some support to not slam into the chassis?
• Do the stock cooling fans need to be updated? (I might want to go up a tooth on the pinion, maybe 2)

 

[Camaroboy383]

The chassis's have been the same since the inception of the plastic chassis.. they all break if your going to send large jumps, land incorrectly, or smash head on into stuff.. the longer they get the more leverage..

They do not just fall apart running in open Fields and back yards..

Motor mount is fine, again for what your listed use is..

Factory pinions are always crap metal, but work just fine for some time... dirt/ dust ingress is what kills them... even a hardened pinion will turn the teeth to razor blades if dirt is present.....Up the pinion 2 teeth and see what the temps are.. only you can determine if it needs fans..

 

[lipo-joe]

The 1st thing I upgraded on my Outcast v2 was the servo.
Other than that I added a motor mount from @Tex Koder that helped a lot and a 15T pinion (which added +4MPH).

It's getting hot up here in the Northeast so I am planning on upgrading the motor and ESC fans soon.

I drive it pretty hard and have not had any major breakage - luckily

 

[Jevge]

Thanks for the replies thus far!

From where does the dust get into the gearbox? I thought it was sealed... Does it go under the whole gearbox assembly?

I have a nice servo somewhere, are the arrma servo savers still crap, should I get a Kimborough?

Also, is it worth getting 6s Kraton shocks for it, for the threaded body?

 

[SrC]

Just drive it and only consider upgrade parts as you break stuff. We all drive differently.
Not all upgrade parts will be necessarily better or beneficial for you. Stocker servo replaced out the box is a worthy first upgrade. I feel the 4x4 line is already maxxed out with 3s packs. 4s running was an Arrma stretch with this 4s V2 .
The Power Module is not sealed well and dirt and sand still gets in there. Arrma didn't revamp the V2 that much better or enough, Drivetrain wise IMHO.
The V2 is just bigger overall than the V1's. And the price just increased more compared the V1's.
I own neither. So take this with a grain of salt.
Nothing wrong with running any of the 6s line, with 4s pack. V2 4s 4x4x's are very close in price to the 6s line, having the better drivetrain. Just what I've seen in so many threads here and elswhere. Have fun . All that matters.
My 3 cents.
Good luck.

 

[Jevge]

Ok, then I'll try to isolate the bottom of the power module then.

I had 1/8th scale trucks and I don't have space to run them & running 4S in a big heavy truck doesn't sound too exciting to me.
I was also VERY disappointed by the Kraton EXB, my diffs kept exploding, so no 6S for me. I'm also not into buggies that much, and I think the Typhon would be still too heavy for 4S.

I bought my Outcast with a pretty nice discount for 400 EUR, which is a decent price in Europe. Typhon 6S is around 470 EUR, Sketer 550 EUR. The Rival MT8 can be found for 380 EUR, but with all upgrades you end up at around 600ish...

 

[SrC]

Most any 1/8 buggy/truggy platform is actually meant for 4s lipo packs. The 6s Typhon included.
6s packs just became a "bashing thing". 1/8 scale was originally designed for 4s packs.
I run my Typhon TLRT with 4s packs only, and at 8.2 pounds full running weight is not considered "heavy". Setup for confined track running.
How heavy is a 4s V2 by comparison?
Many just slam their rigs with ALL alloy stuff and this makes them heavy pigs. Stock plastic parts are cheaper and keep things light. How I fly.
Yes EXB LSD diffs suck for so many IMHO. EXB line is disappearing for some reason also.
Why I only run the RTR standard Open diffs in all my 6s rigs. They are just fine.

 

[Jevge]

Yeah, the EXB was a huge disappointment, and went for a Kronos, which was disappointing in other ways. But I guess I just had a lot of bad luck from the start, coming into the hobby:

• First truck was a Rival MT10, which was great but a bit too small, I swapped it for a TLR 8ight 2.0/3.0 truggified buggy - but the postal service drenched my parcel in water, damaged the ESC, wheels etc., and denied all liability - I have spent months fighting with them about it...
• As I was waiting for parts I also got a V2 Maxx, but it is very far from a drivers car, handled poorly imo and I hated the clipless body mounting, I hated the Traxxas electronics and sold them, so it sat on the shelf for quite a while, but when it was running it was kind of fun, but still not what I wanted from my trucks...
• I got a Kraton EXB, because it surely handles better than a Maxx, and then the diffs kept exploding, then my Mamba ESC died on the 2nd run... Everything was replaced under warranty, but I had to wait and wait, and had to get a new Hobbywing system for it...
• Then I got my castle electronics back (new ESC) and wanted to put it in my Maxx, and for the motor to fit you need a little, cheap plastic motor mount - for which I waited 2-3 months to arrive, so the Maxx was on the shelf again
• I got a Kronos (after selling my Kraton), because it's a beast, RIGHT? And - of course - the rear turnbuckles snapped on the 2nd run. I have put a staggering amount of hop-up parts into this Kronos, and my expectation was that it's bulletproof - and yeah, it wasn't.

So this is why I just sold every big truck I own and almost stopped the hobby altogether. Now I want to keep it simpler, don't want to get into 1/8 size and 6S. I drew a hard line how much I'm willing to spend, and any 6S line is above that (actually, even the Sketer).

I just wanted some information what can I do to potentially avoid problems on the outcast 4s, not really interested in what other cars could I get, because I won't get a 2nd car, or replace something that is under way right away...

 

[Camaroboy383]

Yeah, the EXB was a huge disappointment, and went for a Kronos, which was disappointing in other ways. But I guess I just had a lot of bad luck from the start, coming into the hobby:

• First truck was a Rival MT10, which was great but a bit too small, I swapped it for a TLR 8ight 2.0/3.0 truggified buggy - but the postal service drenched my parcel in water, damaged the ESC, wheels etc., and denied all liability - I have spent months fighting with them about it...
• As I was waiting for parts I also got a V2 Maxx, but it is very far from a drivers car, handled poorly imo and I hated the clipless body mounting, I hated the Traxxas electronics and sold them, so it sat on the shelf for quite a while, but when it was running it was kind of fun, but still not what I wanted from my trucks...
• I got a Kraton EXB, because it surely handles better than a Maxx, and then the diffs kept exploding, then my Mamba ESC died on the 2nd run... Everything was replaced under warranty, but I had to wait and wait, and had to get a new Hobbywing system for it...
• Then I got my castle electronics back (new ESC) and wanted to put it in my Maxx, and for the motor to fit you need a little, cheap plastic motor mount - for which I waited 2-3 months to arrive, so the Maxx was on the shelf again
• I got a Kronos (after selling my Kraton), because it's a beast, RIGHT? And - of course - the rear turnbuckles snapped on the 2nd run. I have put a staggering amount of hop-up parts into this Kronos, and my expectation was that it's bulletproof - and yeah, it wasn't.

So this is why I just sold every big truck I own and almost stopped the hobby altogether. Now I want to keep it simpler, don't want to get into 1/8 size and 6S. I drew a hard line how much I'm willing to spend, and any 6S line is above that (actually, even the Sketer).

I just wanted some information what can I do to potentially avoid problems on the outcast 4s, not really interested in what other cars could I get, because I won't get a 2nd car, or replace something that is under way right away...

For what it's worth, the 4s v2, if you haven't already had it in your hands, is pretty much the same wheelbase as the 6s outcast.. so it still kind of is 1/8 scale..

I would say the best advice I can give is to go through the whole rig before running it, check everything over.. fill the diffs, and seal the bottom of the motor module..

You had mentioned possibly 6s shocks on it, don't bother.. the newer shocks are quite nice..

 

[SrC]

+1

 

[razorrc]

Just my opinion and not specific to this thread, but --

If you can't figure out what upgrade an RC car needs...
... then it doesn't need any.

 

[hobo]

Just my opinion and not specific to this thread, but --

If you can't figure out what upgrade an RC car needs...
... then it doesn't need any.

agreed I kept breaking shock mounts and turnbuckles on the kronos xtr 2022 so got titanium shock standoffs and plastic turnbuckles front and rear the car has been fine

 

[Jevge]

Are there any problems with the composite pivot balls? And if I would like to replace them are there any steel ones that work? I haven't found any...

 

[Dales396lt4]

Okay. I run 3 4s Kraton v2. Frist thing is the pivot pins are to short and need to be .5 longer. I broke 3 chassis before I learned my lesson. My go to v2 has all M2c upgrades and is the most abused. All my v2's run 15 tooth pinon and have the longer pins. I did make a chassis brace for one.

The pivot balls don't last long at all steel is the way to go. I have a 3d printer, so I print new ones that are oversized. I also printed motor supports for all 3 of my v2's.

 

[quiznatodd bidness]

The quality of parts is way better between the new 4s and 3s. I’ve only heard good reviews about the v2 outcast, whereas the kraton is more prone to chassis breaks than ever.

I would definitely get a bash bar of some kind. Idk if eBay ships rcmadlabz parts from Florida to you, or what it would cost, but his new stuff is top of the line hop up. His plate is the best I’ve seen, but would cost me in the US $80-100. I have made my own bars for the last year. I just get a 1/8-1/4” x 2” aluminum piece from the hardware store and drill new holes to match the 6 main tower screws and 1 for the red motor block screw. Costs maybe $15 with enough material for 2. You’ll have to buy longer screws too.

 

[Camaroboy383]

Team associated #81398

 

[Jevge]

Okay. I run 3 4s Kraton v2. Frist thing is the pivot pins are to short and need to be .5 longer. I broke 3 chassis before I learned my lesson.

I'm not sure which pivot pins you mean...

I would definitely get a bash bar of some kind. Idk if eBay ships rcmadlabz parts from Florida to you, or what it would cost

Oh they ship it here, but it would be around 60 $ just for shipping and around 90 $ for the part... Shipping makes it too expensive.

The pivot balls don't last long at all steel is the way to go. I have a 3d printer, so I print new ones that are oversized.

Team associated #81398

Much appreciated! Do you know what are the sizes for the rest? I would like to replace all with steel ones, but can't find what I need anywhere...

 

[BigP]

On the 4s v2 is use chassis brace!
On Arrma 3s and 4s v2 i use a 3M Bumpon under the End of the motor can to support it there.

 

[Dales396lt4]

Longer pivot pins for the A-Arms Part # ARA330731 stock is 63mm and they need to be 63.5
I was putting my truck togueter and i noticed the hinge pins that ckme on the v2 have rounded ends. The v1 and v2 have the same lengh of 62.8mm byt the rounded ends i believe makes the hinge pin holderbcompletely useless. My rear hinge pin on my v2 has a diameter of 4.5mm vs my 5 year old one i still have has a diameter of 4.1mm. So the QC seems to be off on hinge pins supports. The front one has 4.1mm diameter

 

[Camaroboy383]

I'm not sure which pivot pins you mean...

Oh they ship it here, but it would be around 60 $ just for shipping and around 90 $ for the part... Shipping makes it too expensive.




Much appreciated! Do you know what are the sizes for the rest? I would like to replace all with steel ones, but can't find what I need anywhere...

You can use those to replace most on the rig.. the ball diameter is the same throughout for the turnbuckles.. that being said, that is almost the whole rig.. you would only be missing the steering link ball's.. which again are the same diameter but perfect spheres, instead of the standoffs..