GP5 diff upgrade?

[Quadcells]

Haven't even run my Limitless V2 as I am still building it. I found that one of my GP5 gear/diff has a slight wobble to it, it doesn't run true.
Is there a better diff for the Limitless v2, I just street bashing, no speed runs.
Thanks.
/quadcells

 

[@9G]

You can just replace the GP5 or try to fix it if you can. The GP5 is probably gonna be the fastest diff but may lack in reliability over time. The 43/13 straight cut diffs (Typhon, Senton 6s, V1 Limitless) are a maybe a little "stronger" and more reliable for a street basher and you won't be sacrificing too much speed. If you don't mind a speed cut but don't feel like replacing diffs all the time get the regular 43/10 spiral cut (Kraton, Talion, Outcast,). These will probably last the longest as they're much beefier and stronger than the other two...but you will notice a speed drop. You can gear up to fix this though depending on the motor and batteries you run. I know a guy who runs the EXB diffs (43/10) open (no LSD plates) with thick oil (over 1 million weight) and he loves them. He says the pins are larger and stronger so they hold up better to huge power...and he runs HUGE power.

 

[Ron Burgandy]

My kinda driving !!

Burgandy approved!!

 

[Sandracer_NL]

That 16s Limitless… 0 to bald tires in 5 seconds!

 

[Ron Burgandy]

It does sound smooth when he lit it up in first vid .

 

[SrC]

Haven't even run my Limitless V2 as I am still building it. I found that one of my GP5 gear/diff has a slight wobble to it, it doesn't run true.
Is there a better diff for the Limitless v2, I just street bashing, no speed runs.
Thanks.
/quadcells

Where is the wobble exactly in the diff? At the input gear Cup? Stockers are known to wobble. Try M2C input gear Cups. What I replace with. They spin true. Do Fr and Rr.
If the Output cups wobble, it is because they are worn and the Stock shims are bricked. So the Cups rock back and forth with the driveshafts. Use M2C cups there as well. Rebuild the diff. Buy complete of diffs/bulkheads from JennysRc. IF the Main gear has extreme runnout, you may need a new diff cup anyway.

https://jennysrc.com/collections/ar...ential-front-rear-infraction-felony-ara320659

I only use Mugen Seiki diff shims, of Spring steel. No stocker tin metal shims. They ruin the whole diff. IMHO. The weak link .

https://www.amazon.com/MUGEN-Differential-Washer-M-Spec-MUGC1206/dp/B000BMPK2U/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?crid=21M2M5AS0YL83&keywords=mugen+seiki+shims+washers+eoso6&qid=1698087471&sprefix=mugen+seiki+shims+washers+eoso6,aps,74&sr=8-1-fkmr1

Smear a grease onto the output cup shafts before assy. into the dff cup and main gear sides. Prevents wear.
This is a high wear part. Then they get wobbly for this reason. Tekno does it this way with grease on the shaft first in the MT410 kit manual. Similar design diff.

 

[Quadcells]

So the wobble is in the 42T ring gear, the input gear is fine. As I turn the center drive shaft the diff would bind only about a 1/4 of a full rotation of the 42T gear. Just double check I took the diff out of the front bulkhead and swapped it with the rear. The result was, front is fine and the rear binds. Took the diff apart inspect, looks good inside. Carefully reassembled the diff with the same problem. Bought a new diff, took it apart and replaced the 10k fluid with 200k. Works great as I can just turn 1 wheel and the other 3 turn with it in the same direction. Awesome.
I guess I could of bought a new 42T gear and tried to replace the old one.
Oh I also re-shrimed the diff in the bulkheads.
Hey, thank you to all who took time to answer my issue. I know everyone's time is valuable.

/quadcells
SrC, I do have a Tekno MT410 I built a few years ago.

 

[dure16]

So the wobble is in the 42T ring gear, the input gear is fine. As I turn the center drive shaft the diff would bind only about a 1/4 of a full rotation of the 42T gear. Just double check I took the diff out of the front bulkhead and swapped it with the rear. The result was, front is fine and the rear binds. Took the diff apart inspect, looks good inside. Carefully reassembled the diff with the same problem. Bought a new diff, took it apart and replaced the 10k fluid with 200k. Works great as I can just turn 1 wheel and the other 3 turn with it in the same direction. Awesome.
I guess I could of bought a new 42T gear and tried to replace the old one.
Oh I also re-shrimed the diff in the bulkheads.
Hey, thank you to all who took time to answer my issue. I know everyone's time is valuable.

/quadcells
SrC, I do have a Tekno MT410 I built a few years ago.

I'm running into the same exact problem.

Were you able to determine whether the culprit was the actual ring gear? Or maybe the plastic diff cup warped? Or something else?

 

[Quadcells]

It is either the ring gear or diff case.
Bought a new diff and moved on.
/quadcells

 

[SrC]

Yeah when it is questionable....just buy a whole new one, Bulkhead and all from JennysRC. Just rebuild it first, your oil and your own shimming. But I still say Using Mugen diff gears' Spring Steel washers/shims are the key. I have (9) 6s rigs here. None of them run the stocker tin metal ones. My diffs are way more durable. For some years now.

 

[Quadcells]

Would you know which Mugen diffs fit the Limitless V2, I have the Scorch bulkheads.
Never mind, I think I figured it out.

 

[SrC]

I'm running into the same exact problem.

Were you able to determine whether the culprit was the actual ring gear? Or maybe the plastic diff cup warped? Or something else?

>>>I also noticed the plastic diff cups get wonky after much use. So the Main gear ends up with that Run Out.
Plastic Diff cups are a cheap consumable diff part IMO.
I replace them every so often. I only run Arrma metal ones at the Center, because it gets very hot.
I can't see a need to run metal ones Fr and Rr. But many do.
I prefer Fr/ Rr diffs to be as light as possible.

 

[dure16]

>>>I also noticed the plastic diff cups get wonky after much use. So the Main gear ends up with that Run Out.
Plastic Diff cups are a cheap consumable diff part IMO.
I replace them every so often. I only run Arrma metal ones at the Center, because it gets very hot.
I can't see a need to run metal ones Fr and Rr. But many do.
I prefer Fr/ Rr diffs to be as light as possible.

I replaced the bulkhead, diff cup, and bearings with no improvement. I think it’s the gears.

New complete assembly is on the way from Jenny’s