healthy/normal temp on rc engine
- Thread starter limpan1
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I try to stay under 150F
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No higher than 75°C (170°F) outside can temp, more like 65°C (150°F) is safer. Actual running temps will depend on things like ambient temp, gearing, how hard and on which surfaces you drive, whether you have additional cooling on the motor, etc..
There are many variables indeed. Depending on load and efficiency 40c/100f to 55c/130f is to be expected. Same with the esc.
On a 10 second speedun i don't worry if they hit 85c/185f but at the end of a battery pack on a basher i do get really worried.
I can certainly smell it when a motor has gone bad.
In general i'd say if you cant touch and hold it for 5 seconds it's overheating.
On a 10 second speedun i don't worry if they hit 85c/185f but at the end of a battery pack on a basher i do get really worried.
I can certainly smell it when a motor has gone bad.
In general i'd say if you cant touch and hold it for 5 seconds it's overheating.
MAVERICK@2
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When you see flames you know it has gotten to hot 
If the motor get to 180* or above you have reached the unsafe zone
If the motor get to 180* or above you have reached the unsafe zone
jkflow
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Cause for heat death is the epoxy holding that magnets on the rotor will break down ~ 200F, there is no repairing or going back, it will just get worse over time. This varies a little between motor manufacturers, but not by much.
Next point, internal motor tempo is always ~ 30-40F higher than the outside can.
Last but not least, once you cross the 160F line the time to get to 170F can be measured in seconds (~30s) but heavily pending surface, setup etc.
Temperature drops significantly between stopping and actually taking the temp, pending how slow you are but 10-20F is realistic, even more with a fan.
All that said, 150F is what I would recommend after killing a couple motors. At 170-180F you can already start the ordering process for a new motor, just a matter of time.
Hobbywing 1650 (4095) an 18T on a Kraton is the sweetspot. It still overheats in Florida summer, but so does the driver
.
Next point, internal motor tempo is always ~ 30-40F higher than the outside can.
Last but not least, once you cross the 160F line the time to get to 170F can be measured in seconds (~30s) but heavily pending surface, setup etc.
Temperature drops significantly between stopping and actually taking the temp, pending how slow you are but 10-20F is realistic, even more with a fan.
All that said, 150F is what I would recommend after killing a couple motors. At 170-180F you can already start the ordering process for a new motor, just a matter of time.
Hobbywing 1650 (4095) an 18T on a Kraton is the sweetspot. It still overheats in Florida summer, but so does the driver
.
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What’s your take on the HW XR8 line? The only motor temp cutoff settings are 220 and 250 degrees. I believe the manual states the motors can handle up to 220 without damage.Cause for heat death is the epoxy holding that magnets on the rotor will break down ~ 200F, there is no repairing or going back, it will just get worse over time. This varies a little between motor manufacturers, but not by much.
Next point, internal motor tempo is always ~ 30-40F higher than the outside can.
Last but not least, once you cross the 160F line the time to get to 170F can be measured in seconds (~30s) but heavily pending surface, setup etc.
Temperature drops significantly between stopping and actually taking the temp, pending how slow you are but 10-20F is realistic, even more with a fan.
All that said, 150F is what I would recommend after killing a couple motors. At 170-180F you can already start the ordering process for a new motor, just a matter of time.
Hobbywing 1650 (4095) an 18T on a Kraton is the sweetspot. It still overheats in Florida summer, but so does the driver
How do their motors handle higher temps than the rest of the market?
jkflow
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Like I said, depends on the epoxy they use. If other companies give you a higher guarantee is a different story.
Also keep in mind that the magnets will lose some of their power at higher temps. Easier to install external fans and not even have those issues.
I know that stock Firma and BLX185 won't make it past ~200F. It's also not an instant death, might still be able to run for a couple packs but the death sentence was signed.
Also keep in mind that the magnets will lose some of their power at higher temps. Easier to install external fans and not even have those issues.
I know that stock Firma and BLX185 won't make it past ~200F. It's also not an instant death, might still be able to run for a couple packs but the death sentence was signed.
FYI - Scalding hot (Ouch!) = 120f-130fIf you touch it:
Ouch: Get a fan!
Really ouch: Stop driving.
Really mean: Act cool and ask your buddy to see it it's too hot.
Really Ouch! - cooling fins leave marks on your skin @150f
Motor still happy till about 170f.
180f, shut it down and let it cool.
200f = damaged motor.
Moral - we really need a IR thermometer to know if it is hot but happy or about to fail...
