Limitless Help with Limitless Initial Setup

[Jeffucd]

Hi All,

New to the speed and Arrma cars and systems. I purchased a Limitless, HobbyWing Xerun XR8 Plus ESC, Xerun 4274 motor, Savox SC-1267SG servo, and Traxxas TQi Rx/Tx (I have a few Traxxas models and wanted to use the same Tx).

I’m unable to input simultaneous steering and throttle input. I used the LCD programmer on the ESC to change the BEC voltage to 7.4V. When I put in a bit of servo input then lightly input throttle, the servo snaps immediately back to neutral and the car moves straight ahead.

Video:

Any thoughts on the fix?

 

[jondilly1974]

Hi All,

New to the speed and Arrma cars and systems. I purchased a Limitless, HobbyWing Xerun XR8 Plus ESC, Xerun 4274 motor, Savox SC-1267SG servo, and Traxxas TQi Rx/Tx (I have a few Traxxas models and wanted to use the same Tx).

I’m unable to input simultaneous steering and throttle input. I used the LCD programmer on the ESC to change the BEC voltage to 7.4V. When I put in a bit of servo input then lightly input throttle, the servo snaps immediately back to neutral and the car moves straight ahead.

Video:

Any thoughts on the fix?

Is TSM enabled? Do you have any other radios?

 

[Jeffucd]

Is TSM enabled? Do you have any other radios?

Disabling TSM worked!! I had it turned down to 10% and moving it all the way to 0% did the trick! Thank you so much!

Another issue - when going full throttle the motor stuttered then eventually just made noise and didn’t move. I believe I need better batteries. I had 3S Venom 35C 5000 mah in there. Will look around the forum to see what people use. Any recommendations welcomed too.

 

[jondilly1974]

Disabling TSM worked!! I had it turned down to 10% and moving it all the way to 0% did the trick! Thank you so much!

Another issue - when going full throttle the motor stuttered then eventually just made noise and didn’t move. I believe I need better batteries. I had 3S Venom 35C 5000 mah in there. Will look around the forum to see what people use. Any recommendations welcomed too.

That’s called cogging. What gearing are you using? Those lipos are quite weak if you have tall gearing. Also, tall gearing is intended for speed runs, not general bashing. You will want to gear down for bashing.

 

[Jeffucd]

That’s called cogging. What gearing are you using? Those lipos are quite weak if you have tall gearing. Also, tall gearing is intended for speed runs, not general bashing. You will want to gear down for bashing.

Got it. What’s a battery spec you recommend?
I have a 22T Mod 1 gear coming soon and a 50T Center Diff is backordered so I have the stock speed gearing in there. Was cruising around as a shakedown.
With the 46T Spool and 50T diff out a few weeks, can I swap anything else in there to get a more bash friendly setup?

 

[jondilly1974]

Got it. What’s a battery spec you recommend?
I have a 22T Mod 1 gear coming soon and a 50T Center Diff is backordered so I have the stock speed gearing in there. Was cruising around as a shakedown.
With the 46T Spool and 50T diff out a few weeks, can I swap anything else in there to get a more bash friendly setup?

I’m not entirely sure how small of a pinion you can run with the stock mount and spool, but probably in the 20T and larger range? I don’t own a limitless myself, but have the limitless spool in my Typhon. But I am using the 29T gear on it with a large pinion. I’m going the opposite way. I’m going for high speed and cogging is expected. Some guys push their cars off the start to help it.

As far as batteries, you will want a minimum of 50C discharge but the higher the better. I like the Turnigy Graphene Panther packs, but they are overboard for bashing. Any decent 50C pack should be fine for just bashing on mild gearing.

 

[suchtragedy]

The 27T pinion with 34T spool had the stock mount almost all the way at it's lowest possible position when I last checked it on my limitless before I swapped to a 22/50 center diff setup, so I am pretty sure a 22T pinion won't reach.

Looks like justbashitrc has plenty of 50T center diffs in stock, FYI.
https://justbashitrc.com/shop/arrma-6s-center-differential/

 

[Jeffucd]

The 27T pinion with 34T spool had the stock mount almost all the way at it's lowest possible position when I last checked it on my limitless before I swapped to a 22/50 center diff setup, so I am pretty sure a 22T pinion won't reach.

Looks like justbashitrc has plenty of 50T center diffs in stock, FYI.
https://justbashitrc.com/shop/arrma-6s-center-differential/

Got it. I purchased the 22T with the intention of going 22/50 - how do you like it? I have a castle 2200kv in my slash 4x4 and can run all day on 4S topping out at 60 and bought the limitless to go just a bit further. No heat issues and about 70 on the top end of I wanted to stretch it out from time to time would be great. Does that get to around what you’re at now?

thanks for the link. Just purchased the 50T from just bash. Never heard of them but I’ll give it a shot.
Also, I noticed the top speed limitless on here run 1 single lipo vs 2. I’ll have to read up on the pros and cons. Since I’ve already soldered the car up for 2, would I have to remove it and solder for 1? A jumper cable or similar to use the current wiring to complete the circle seems unfeasible.

 

[suchtragedy]

Got it. I purchased the 22T with the intention of going 22/50 - how do you like it? I have a castle 2200kv in my slash 4x4 and can run all day on 4S topping out at 60 and bought the limitless to go just a bit further. No heat issues and about 70 on the top end of I wanted to stretch it out from time to time would be great. Does that get to around what you’re at now?

thanks for the link. Just purchased the 50T from just bash. Never heard of them but I’ll give it a shot.
Also, I noticed the top speed limitless on here run 1 single lipo vs 2. I’ll have to read up on the pros and cons. Since I’ve already soldered the car up for 2, would I have to remove it and solder for 1? A jumper cable or similar to use the current wiring to complete the circle seems unfeasible.

Just Bash It is good, ships fast and have similar pricing to Jenny's for most kit breaker parts, they make some decent upgrades for the various Arrmas too.

I like the 22/50 setup a lot for a parking lot bashing. Right now I'm running 100k/500k/100k diff oils and a 4585 1580kv motor and with that setup on 6s I get about 63mph top speed according to GPS and spektrum telemetry. Tires break loose pretty easily but still controllable for drifts and speed if you have a steady trigger finger and don't go nuts on the wheel. On 4s it's pretty good too with the white Hoons.

Single battery adds simplicity but also because with the longer TP motors in order for it to fit you to turn the motor mount around 180° and face the motor the other direction and that results in losing 1 of the battery trays. I'm sure there's downsides to dual batteries but i doubt it's anything to worry about. I run dual battery configuration and have no complaints for my purposes

 

[Jeffucd]

Just Bash It is good, ships fast and have similar pricing to Jenny's for most kit breaker parts, they make some decent upgrades for the various Arrmas too.

I like the 22/50 setup a lot for a parking lot bashing. Right now I'm running 100k/500k/100k diff oils and a 4585 1580kv motor and with that setup on 6s I get about 63mph top speed according to GPS and spektrum telemetry. Tires break loose pretty easily but still controllable for drifts and speed if you have a steady trigger finger and don't go nuts on the wheel. On 4s it's pretty good too with the white Hoons.

Single battery adds simplicity but also because with the longer TP motors in order for it to fit you to turn the motor mount around 180° and face the motor the other direction and that results in losing 1 of the battery trays. I'm sure there's downsides to dual batteries but i doubt it's anything to worry about. I run dual battery configuration and have no complaints for my purposes

Ok good to know. I have a 2250kv in this rig so I wonder if with the same gearing it will get to 70. Looks like the 2 battery setup makes the most sense for me since I have other 1/10 scale cars I can use the 3S packs in.

 

[suchtragedy]

Ok good to know. I have a 2250kv in this rig so I wonder if with the same gearing it will get to 70. Looks like the 2 battery setup makes the most sense for me since I have other 1/10 scale cars I can use the 3S packs in.

It should get mid 70s on 6s with that motor and gearing but motor is gonna run hot so I would only do a couple back to back speed passes then cool down break. On 4s it should be great for bashing in the 50s.

 

[Jeffucd]

It should get mid 70s on 6s with that motor and gearing but motor is gonna run hot so I would only do a couple back to back speed passes then cool down break. On 4s it should be great for bashing in the 50s.

Thanks for this info. For cooling, can fans and heat sink help, or does it only slightly delay the inevitable?

 

[suchtragedy]

Thanks for this info. For cooling, can fans and heat sink help, or does it only slightly delay the inevitable?

They help but everything has it's limits, still better to have than to not have

 

[Jeffucd]

New issues. I think I fried the ESC

When powering on the ESC, it first blinks green and beeps the number of LiPO cells correctly, then after that it goes into a fast blinking red and does not stop. Servo normally, but not the throttle.

This happened after I re-soldered all connections between the ESC and motor. It was working well immediately prior to this, so I may have caused the issue. I’m new to soldering.

It will also only partially work in programming mode. Holding Set + Power On will get To the first calibration setting, but after hitting set for the Neutral position there is no green light or audible sound that I’ve heard in the past to advance to the second calibration point. The car wasn’t run at all, and I tried this across a span of 2-3 hours but same result. Also, tried 2 different pairs of battery packs, will try and third later today, and ordered a new p

Video:

My son was the camera man, poor kid had a tummy ache but toughed it out for his old man

 

[jondilly1974]

So your motor chirps on start but won’t spin after? Sounds strange.

 

[Jeffucd]

So your motor chirps on start but won’t spin after? Sounds strange.

That’s right. I’ve read that the successive red lights are related to overheating, invalid throttle signal, or fried MOSFETs. I have no idea what that actually means though.

 

[jondilly1974]

That’s right. I’ve read that the successive red lights are related to overheating, invalid throttle signal, or fried MOSFETs. I have no idea what that actually means though.

I usually see this when a motor lead is missing. I’m not positive on the other reasons. But I suspect the motor chirps wouldn’t work if the motor leads weren’t connected. Time to call Castle.

 

[Hammer Down]

Time to call Castle.

Pretty sure it’s a hobby wing... ?

 

[suchtragedy]

Check the connection of the esc to the receiver, make sure it's not loose or on the wrong port. If looks good and still doesn't work you can try the esc on the channel 1 port and see if your steering wheel spins the motor and try steering on channel 2 port to see if throttle turns the steering. This swap test would determine if your issue follows the esc or if it is only an issue with channel 2 port.

Also verify your motor wires are connected correctly. You are running a sensored setup so motor wires can't be mixed up and still work like non sensored can.

 

[jondilly1974]

Pretty sure it’s a hobby wing... ?

Dang I crossed up threads ???‍