Kraton Hobbystar 4092

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Slogrits

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Arrma RC's
Tired of waiting on Horizon to send a replacement esc and motor. Sent it off 5-6-18. About to pull the trigger on a max6 and hobbystar 4092. What kv should I choose. 1730kv or 1480kv? The 1480kv I calculated that I would need a 20 or 21 tooth pinion to match my stock Kraton on a 14T pinion. Any suggestions? Anyone have experience with both?
 
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1730kv was not available. I went with the 1480kv with 21t pinion. Still unsure what to expect.

Well it should have tons and tons of power. I have a 4082 1600kv on my outcast and I’m not impressed. I only have a 15T on it. It needs geared up. The good thing is I ran the hell out of it in the grass and seriously couldn’t get it hot. 145* was max I saw. I think with the high gearing you’ll be very happy. It might not have incredible top speed but it should be way way more powerful and stay cool.
 
If it
Well it should have tons and tons of power. I have a 4082 1600kv on my outcast and I’m not impressed. I only have a 15T on it. It needs geared up. The good thing is I ran the hell out of it in the grass and seriously couldn’t get it hot. 145* was max I saw. I think with the high gearing you’ll be very happy. It might not have incredible top speed but it should be way way more powerful and stay cool.
If it has the same top end as stock, backflip easily in the air and run cooler in grass then I am happy.
 
Leopard 4092 1480kv, Max 8 Esc, 20t pinion in Kraton and it will eat my outcast with the Leopard 4274 1800kv, stock Esc and 16t pinion alive.
 

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First run with max6 hobbystar 4092 1480kv with 21t pinion. It is a bit faster and more powerful. I have been running my mt410 so it is hard to compare to the stock. I have not ran the Kraton since April. Compared to the mt410 it is faster. It’s weight and length let it get up to top end. The Tekno mt410 if you are on 4s it can be going 35 or 40 mph and punch the trigger the last bit and it will jump up in the air and almost backflip. On 6s it just Tasmanian devils. So way different.
Max6 lets me set the voltage to 7.4v so now it turns like it should with the savox 1210sg. Before I was using the glitch buster and the blx185 and it was a little better than stock.
Overall I am happy with the combo temps in tall grass at full throttle were 140 degrees.
 
Another thing I am using a Futuba 3pv on the mt410. It seams a lot more responsive than the stock Tactic transmitter on the Kraton.
Broke the rear shock end on it tonight. I will replace it with the Tekno ones. Note: it only works with the rpm A-arms and you have to tap the shock ends with a die cutter or really force it.
 
Second session with max6 and 4092 1480kv. I feel like it is losing power with 200k diff fluid in the center. Should I go up to 500k that I have on hand or order 1 million? Straight runs on grass or pavement the front tires “backflips” are ballooning a lot more than the rear.
 
Second session with max6 and 4092 1480kv. I feel like it is losing power with 200k diff fluid in the center. Should I go up to 500k that I have on hand or order 1 million? Straight runs on grass or pavement the front tires “backflips” are ballooning a lot more than the rear.

Well I’d give the 500k a try. I honestly use 1 mil in all my trucks but 300k is the only other weight I’ve tried. It seems excessive. 300 was decent but I think 500 will prob be enough to help the unloading you’re getting.

I can’t say for sure as I’ve never tried 500 myself. You could order the 1 mil to have in case you don’t like it or for the next teardown.
 
Highest temperatures with this setup. Post Florence high grass on 6s. 1 mil center diff fluid. Motor 148 degrees max6 115 degrees and center diff 150 degrees. What can be done to Lower the temps on the diff? Loosen the mesh? Same mesh I have done before but, 21t pinion has a lot more contact than the stock pinion.
 
Are u running a hot racing aluminum diff cup or the stock plastic one? The aluminum diff cup also helps to put the temps down I think. I started using aluminum diff cups after the stock plastic ones began to melt on me. The shims and gears were melted into the diff cup :rolleyes: So now all my 3 Arrma cars have a Hot Racing aluminum diff cup in the center. I use 500K (500.000cst) in the center of my Kraton and Outcast, and 200.000cst in my Senton. But the next time I will rebuild the diff on the Senton I will go up to 300.000 or 500.000cst to test.
 
Are u running a hot racing aluminum diff cup or the stock plastic one? The aluminum diff cup also helps to put the temps down I think. I started using aluminum diff cups after the stock plastic ones began to melt on me. The shims and gears were melted into the diff cup :rolleyes: So now all my 3 Arrma cars have a Hot Racing aluminum diff cup in the center. I use 500K (500.000cst) in the center of my Kraton and Outcast, and 200.000cst in my Senton. But the next time I will rebuild the diff on the Senton I will go up to 300.000 or 500.000cst to test.
Just put in the HR center diff. That is what my 150degree reading was off of. Keep in mind post Florence 6+ inch grass. I will post temps in normal conditions.
 
I use 100k in my center with the Max6 and HS 1480kv and 21t, the Kraton is my first and only RC so i cant compare to others in control/power and i forgot what it was like stock tho it was not stock for long. My dif cups seems fine and no melting but then again i don't run my RC all the time and not full power long periods. I don't understand 100k Vs 500k... My difs are 60k/100k/60k tho the rear use to be 30k the other day but seems better with 60k in the rear and does not wheelie as bad. I don't bash my Kraton, i like to drive fast on all surfaces. I should one day put the stock motor back on and see...
 
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