Hobbywing Glitching?

[ridgehead44]

Hey everybody,

I am on my 3rd HW ESC and I am about at the end of my rope. My first EZRUN MAX10 SCT Gen 1 just stopped working. The second one keeps turning off automatically, waaaaay before any sort of thermal cutoff. We're talking 30 seconds into a run. The SAME thing happened with my EZRUN G2. How can it possibly cut off so early, when the temperatures are cool as a corpse? I don't know if it's a glitch in the electronics, or if I am doing something wrong. I'm only running 3s, and the cutoff happens within 30 seconds or so. I can turn it back on and run it for awhile, but it will inevitably cut off again, even though it's not hot.

Has anybody had problems with these units, or am I the only one?

 

[RCbuzz]

This is sounding like the settings in the ESC (LVC-Low Voltage Cutoff) may be set a bit high, your batteries are tired, or you have a bad connection somewhere (power wire side).

If the batteries can't hold their voltage and sag under load it will trip LVC on the ESC. First I would check what LVC is set at and try out a high "C" rated known good battery. Also make sure the connections are good and solid and the power wires are not too long.

Generally HW makes great stuff, almost all my ESC's are HW.

 

[SrC]

+1

 

[Dan B.]

Is it possible your motor is pulling too many amps for the ESC’s? What motor are you running? Also, do you have a ton of stuff running off the receiver? Fans, lights, amp hungry servo, etc? What do the blinking lights tell you? Seems unlikely three ESC’s in a row fail in exactly the same way. I’d think there is another issue at play. Do you have another servo you could try? Wonky servos can cause all sorts of weird behavior from the ESC.

 

[SrC]

What trouble code lights are flashing at the ESC?
The Sequence and color(s)...

 

[jkflow]

I could understand 1 ESC but 3 with very similar problems, that is not your ESC.

Answer some of the above questions and we can help diagnose further.
Lipo make/model/specs
A picture of Lipo to ESC connection and entire setup would help.

Almost sounds like you have very anemic Lipos or bat connectors on your lipos.

 

[Mad Bogger]

hey same frigin problem in my typhon i put a max 10 in it and its glitching

 

[Jon NC RC]

More info please, @ridgehead44

 

[SrC]

Have you removed the Servo ( disconnected it) and then tried the ESC while on the bench? The BEC circuit may have failed. A bad Servo can cause this. Maybe not in your case however. IDK.
Try that if you haven't yet.
Do you have a Prog Card for this ESC?
If so, will it sync up with your ESC?
If not, probably the ESC is toast. F/W-Parameters not accessible, is a sure sign. IMHO.
Even a simple thing like a bad intermittent Power switch can cause issues sometimes.
Do you run in the wet stuff? If so, that may be the issue too. Then the ESC is surely toast from corrosion over time. Corrosion can set in sometimes weeks later out of no where and ruin most ESC's They are not truly WP.


I never heard good things about the Max 10 ESC, similar complaints years past, quite honestly. It's an old ESC, if I am correct.
I am all into HW, But I pass on some of their stuff. For some of my 1/10 scale models I rather use the basic 10BL120 (sensored) Have 3 of these. Some of mine are rather old now. Yet work fine with 3s. Not a Hiccup in all the years.
If considering running 4s, I would go straight to a 6s sensored HW product. Running on 4s, a 6s ESC will have more Amp overhead and Probably run cooler.
The new XR8 SCT looks to be a good one also.
For 4s-6s running I prefer the Zerun Line of HW products.
I stay a way from the QuickRun budget stuff with my Heavier 1/8 rigs.
Food for thought.
My 2 cents.

 

[ridgehead44]

Hmm. So this has affected two vehicles, both of which had brand new ESCs, a Hobbywing and an Arrma BLX, respectively. The common denominator is the batteries, which are of the same make, Hoovo. They had 80c on 2S and 100c on 3s. They had good reviews on Amazon, but they were pretty cheap. Maybe I just got a bad batch. I ordered another 3s battery from a different company, to see how it works.

I think I'll try the Hoovo battery in my TC Sketer, and see if it behaves the same way as it does in the Granite.

Thanks for the advice, everyone.

 

[Mad Bogger]

ive given up on them aye

 

[SrC]

I never considered Hoovo's. Some like them, others not. They seem to be a mixed bag?
They were the Flavor of the month for a bit.
But I have a suspicion that the Lipos are not the issue. What are the chances that all 3 lipos are causing this to happen??
And The OP should simply check all the cells' IR's and how well they balance. Looking for that one cell or 2 that loses voltage when at rest for a few hours. A lipo Testor is a much needed RC tool. Easy to see if the Lipos are the issue. Do this before buying another New lipo pack. I woud simply buy another ESC first and call it a day. Just rule out wiring, BEC issues at the ESC, the Servo and even the Rx as the cause first.
OP never stated what Servo and TX/RX he is running. Servo may be failing or just an Amp Hog. And the ESC's BEC cannot supply enough sustained Amps. Hence brownouts. Glitching. Even a bad Rx and/ or Antenna can cause these symtoms.

Are you using the same servo with this ESC? There is some common denominator here to rule out or not.
The HW SCT 10 ESC has been known to have issues, just like the OG HW Max 8. Max 8 had fire issues from overheating Mosfets. If my memory serves me right.

 

[jkflow]

When you say it 'cuts off' are there any LED blink codes?
There is no mode that will shut off the ESC without error conditions.
If this is true, I'd suspect the ESC's but also below.

Your common denominator are your Lipos imho.
Hoovoo is a low-cost brand and has no quality control, like all Amazon brands (lipo wise).
At best, they are 15-20C, but don't take my word for it. Do you have a charger that can measure Internal resistance (IR)?
That would tell you the capability. All cells should be in the 5 mOhm or lower range.

FYI, a 100C Lipo is simply impossible to build unless you are shelling out tons of money. Not even the best Lipos on the market can reach that level. In Hovoo's case, they only print labels for low-cost cells that are not tested and unmatched, i.e. cheapest from factory. You could get lucky, but 90% of the time performance is lackluster, which is what you are experiencing.

 

[Mad Bogger]

hmm my cheap build is in the bin now (not literally)

 

[arrma 43]

Have you removed the Servo ( disconnected it) and then tried the ESC while on the bench? The BEC circuit may have failed. A bad Servo can cause this. Maybe not in your case however. IDK.
Try that if you haven't yet.
Do you have a Prog Card for this ESC?
If so, will it sync up with your ESC?
If not, probably the ESC is toast. F/W-Parameters not accessible, is a sure sign. IMHO.
Even a simple thing like a bad intermittent Power switch can cause issues sometimes.
Do you run in the wet stuff? If so, that may be the issue too. Then the ESC is surely toast from corrosion over time. Corrosion can set in sometimes weeks later out of no where and ruin most ESC's They are not truly WP.


I never heard good things about the Max 10 ESC, similar complaints years past, quite honestly. It's an old ESC, if I am correct.
I am all into HW, But I pass on some of their stuff. For some of my 1/10 scale models I rather use the basic 10BL120 (sensored) Have 3 of these. Some of mine are rather old now. Yet work fine with 3s. Not a Hiccup in all the years.
If considering running 4s, I would go straight to a 6s sensored HW product. Running on 4s, a 6s ESC will have more Amp overhead and Probably run cooler.
The new XR8 SCT looks to be a good one also.
For 4s-6s running I prefer the Zerun Line of HW products.
I stay a way from the QuickRun budget stuff with my Heavier 1/8 rigs.
Food for thought.
My 2 cents.

just bought hobbywing quic run version 2, 150 amp esc for truck. I set my radio up used the program card, and when running truck forward it starts off glitching in my drive shaft of my car, same for reverse then runs normal. This happens all the time, not to smooth?? Whats wrong here?? now I also had the add adapter to motor leads to plug into 6.5mm bullet for new esc, would this cause any glitching???

 

[jkflow]

Is this something like cogging?

If that is the case, try a smaller pinion or reduce punch.
Else, please make a video of your issue and post on youtube, link in reply.

 

[arrma 43]

hi guys will try to post problem to youtube but today tried my old hobbywing short course 120 esc and no glitching problems! what is wrong with the new quic run 150 gen2 then???

the glitching starts at real low throtle off the gate then mid to high no problems?????

just bought hobbywing quic run version 2, 150 amp esc for truck. I set my radio up used the program card, and when running truck forward it starts off glitching in my drive shaft of my car, same for reverse then runs normal. This happens all the time, not to smooth?? Whats wrong here?? now I also had the add adapter to motor leads to plug into 6.5mm bullet for new esc, would this cause any glitching???

no never have run it outsde just in basment the program card works set all funtion to neutral range for throttle and timing 0.

 

[dure16]

the glitching starts at real low throtle off the gate then mid to high no problems?????

I’ve heard this about several ESCs launched by HW in the past 12 months.

 

[RCbuzz]

hi guys will try to post problem to youtube but today tried my old hobbywing short course 120 esc and no glitching problems! what is wrong with the new quic run 150 gen2 then???

the glitching starts at real low throtle off the gate then mid to high no problems?????


no never have run it outsde just in basment the program card works set all funtion to neutral range for throttle and timing 0.

What receiver and transmitter are you using? Motor, pinion, spur? Same battery for the 120 and 150 esc?

Did you buy the esc from Hobbywing (retail vs. OEM like Aliexpress)?

There is a possibility what you are experiencing is "cogging", that happens at start/low speeds where the ESC is trying to determine the motors RPM's, this becomes worse when larger pinions are used.. There is also a difference among ESC's on how well they determine this for sensorless setups. It could be your 120 SCT esc is a "higher tier (faster processor, better monitoring)" esc than the 150 Quickrun.

I have a HW 10bl60 that has tall gearing and cogs like crazy. Drives like a 2 stroke with a power band, loads of fun .

 

[Dan B.]

hi guys will try to post problem to youtube but today tried my old hobbywing short course 120 esc and no glitching problems! what is wrong with the new quic run 150 gen2 then???

the glitching starts at real low throtle off the gate then mid to high no problems?????

If the motor is sensored then try unplugging the sensor wire to the motor and see if that resolves the issue. What motor are you using?

There is a possibility what you are experiencing is "cogging"

It sure does sound like it, I agree. Some motors are worse than others, of course. Weird that the issue goes away when powered by another ESC though.