Kraton Hot racing rear chassis brace issue.

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ManhattanRC

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Arrma RC's
  1. 4x4-Mega
  2. Kraton 6s
  3. Typhon 6s
Hi guys,

Quick question on the Hot Racing Rear Chassis Brace.The bore size of the hole which mounts to the rear wing assembly is too small for the OEM screw.

The brace itself only comes with a single screw that mounts to the bottom of the chassis, and doesn't include one to mount to the rear wing assembly. If I force it it'll just end up getting stuck, so I'm a little curious if anybody else out there had the issue and if there was a screw I could order to fix the problem. It's a V3 kraton.
 
I didn't have that issue with my Hot Racing rear brace, it was however a tight fit with the plastic spacers, you sure that's not what you're experiencing here?
 
Unfortunately not. Even when I remove it and try to run the OEM screw through the last hole in the chassis brace the screw itself gets stuck. I'm thinking I might just need to take a drill to it.
 
That's odd.
Can you attach a picture of the screw attempting to go through the hole and then the hole itself in the brace?
 
Unfortunately not. Even when I remove it and try to run the OEM screw through the last hole in the chassis brace the screw itself gets stuck. I'm thinking I might just need to take a drill to it.
I was thinking this too, iirc it's 5mm but double check.
 
I'll go ahead and attach a file this evening when I get home. Really appreciate the help.
 
Unfortunately not. Even when I remove it and try to run the OEM screw through the last hole in the chassis brace the screw itself gets stuck. I'm thinking I might just need to take a drill to it.

That's what I did. I initially got it stuck 1/2 way through. I had to put it in the freezer to get the bolt out. Then I just ran a drill though the hole and it fit fine.
 
That's odd.
Can you attach a picture of the screw attempting to go through the hole and then the hole itself in the brace?

I had the same issue. I also had this happen with a rear hub from HR. I had to ream it with a drill to get the pin through.
 
This unfortunately isn't the first time I've seen a thread on HR parts "not lining up" properly, and not just Arrmas.. That's why I went with Voltage on my Talion. I would contact them and see if they will send you a replacement.
 
My rear brace was fine for my outcast, but my motor mount didn't like the bearings going in it. Not looking forward to replacing those any time soon.

Perhaps your bolt is bent?
 
My rear brace was fine for my outcast, but my motor mount didn't like the bearings going in it. Not looking forward to replacing those any time soon.

Perhaps your bolt is bent?
I have a motor mount on order. Is there something you could tell me, to make sure I get this done with as little problem as possible?
 
I have a motor mount on order. Is there something you could tell me, to make sure I get this done with as little problem as possible?
Use some high grit sand paper around your finger where the bearing seats until the bearing drops in. Was a discussion about it here:
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/...it-in-hot-racing-motor-mount.7632/#post-99175

Me being the idiot I am, used a block of wood and a hammer. I'm going to regret that when it comes time to replace the bearing. I'll end up riping the inside of the bearing out, then using a dremel to score the metal without harming the mount much, then a punch to crack the outer race. So basically... I made myself a lot of work in the future due to lack of patience.
 
Use some high grit sand paper around your finger where the bearing seats until the bearing drops in. Was a discussion about it here:
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/...it-in-hot-racing-motor-mount.7632/#post-99175

Me being the idiot I am, used a block of wood and a hammer. I'm going to regret that when it comes time to replace the bearing. I'll end up riping the inside of the bearing out, then using a dremel to score the metal without harming the mount much, then a punch to crack the outer race. So basically... I made myself a lot of work in the future due to lack of patience.
I have some iron oxide paper I used for wet sanding. Hopefully does the trick. Sounds stupid, but when the day comes you have to take it out, stick in the freezer over night. Hopefully the metal will contract enough that reverse hammering gets it out with a little less aggravation. Something tells me, you might have already thought of that idea. There's always liquid nitrogen if you know someone with a machine shop.
 
You could probably warm it up in the oven first, then remove the bearing, usually helps
 
You could probably warm it up in the oven first, then remove the bearing, usually helps
Put it together last night. It was a bit tight, but after using the @olds97_lss idea of light sanding with a very fine grit paper, it went in no problem. Now I just have to wait for the temperature's to back up above freezing, so I can get out and run it again. Maybe April.......
 
Put it together last night. It was a bit tight, but after using the @olds97_lss idea of light sanding with a very fine grit paper, it went in no problem. Now I just have to wait for the temperature's to back up above freezing, so I can get out and run it again. Maybe April.......
I know that feel bro.
This time of year it's either cold and muddy, cold and windy, cold and snowy or some random combination of the 3.
 
I've installed multiple HR products like Frt.& Rear chassis braces also their wing mount and I haven't ran into any problems luckily.
 

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I have front and rear HR aluminum chassis braces for my V3 Typhon, never had any fitment issues. Are the two large spacers that hold the screw to the wing mount installed in the right order?
 

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I have front and rear HR aluminum chassis braces for my V3 Typhon, never had any fitment issues. Are the two large spacers that hold the screw to the wing mount installed in the right order?
Yes
 
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