Kraton Im kinda a newbie

[Mxminiracer99]

So I've had a few different RC cars back in the day, but almost 20 years later I bought a used kraton 4s 1/10 V1, it was an impulse buy and I think I got a good deal for $300, guy I work with bought it new, used it once and put it back in the box cause he couldn't drive it. I guess it was too fast for him. It literally looked brand new still. It also came with a charger and a 4s lipo battery. But seeing I don't really know what to get for it, I want too make it a little faster, and some aluminum upgrades, but also some way better shocks, a lot of stuff I find on the internet says its for a V2. Also what is compatible with it.

 

[Tex Koder]

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First off, Welcome to the forum!

So I've had a few different RC cars back in the day, but almost 20 years later I bought a used kraton 4s 1/10 V1, it was an impulse buy and I think I got a good deal for $300, guy I work with bought it new, used it once and put it back in the box cause he couldn't drive it. I guess it was too fast for him. It literally looked brand new still. It also came with a charger and a 4s lipo battery. But seeing I don't really know what to get for it, I want too make it a little faster, and some aluminum upgrades, but also some way better shocks, a lot of stuff I find on the internet says its for a V2. Also what is compatible with it.

The Kraton 4S V2 are somewhat different than v1's

Look at upgrades for a Big Rock 3S or Typhon 3S which are more inline with the original K4Sv1.

Personally, I'd suggest you just enjoy the vehicle as is. IMHO


The money you spend on trying to make it "a little" faster will be MUCH better saved to get yourself a Kraton 6S with All its benefits built-in ,stock from the factory.
Or any of the other 6S lineup ,they are Plenty FAST straight out of the box


or go 8S ,if you're ballsy.

 

[Greengaunja]

+1. Upgrading is a long, never-ending, downwards spiral of a Rabbit hole from which you NEVER emerge from. There is an actual RC Law of Modifications that states anything made faster is also by default made weaker.

 

[Smilinbri]

Welcome aboard!! Yes, you def got a good deal with that purchase! Drive as-is and upgrade as needed. Have fun!

 

[Mxminiracer99]

Now I wanna get the 1/5 kraton, that must be insane, but i would definitely like to upgraded the shocks, they seem way too soft like the bottom is just rubbing against the ground half the time

 

[Just a hobby]

First upgrades if any is the v2 arms, tie rods shocks and shock towers from Jenny's rc. And maybe the diffs to metal when they go bad. Front bearing on the motor is a must!!

 

[blaster27]

Have fun with your model as is, you might just love like that. Then if you want to upgrade it by all means. Welcome here.

 

[djrahbee]

Welcome to the forum!

 

[xmonster313x]

Welcome to the forum!! just got a new kraton EXB 8S a few weeks ago too!!

 

[quiznatodd bidness]

Now I wanna get the 1/5 kraton, that must be insane, but i would definitely like to upgraded the shocks, they seem way too soft like the bottom is just rubbing against the ground half the time

Jennysrc.com is the best place to get parts. Easiest option for shocks is to get the 4s v2 kraton shocks. They will work just fine, but I believe you’ll have to get the rubber grommet for the top eyelet from axial for a couple bucks. -it may come with it already. Those are big bore aluminum body shocks, and far better than the 3s and 4s v1 shocks.

If you really want to beef it up, taking it the rest of the way to a v2 kraton (without the chassis) is pretty awesome. You’d be looking at metal gearing in the diffs and spur, wider and stronger arms, and much stronger cvd axles, links, and hubs. All of that can be bought (bearings included) off Jenny’s, and makes for a far sturdier ride.

My recommendation would be the shocks and then upgrade to metal gears when you strip a plastic one. If you’re really loving the truck and want more for it, get the wide package off a v2.

 

[Mxminiracer99]

Jennysrc.com is the best place to get parts. Easiest option for shocks is to get the 4s v2 kraton shocks. They will work just fine, but I believe you’ll have to get the rubber grommet for the top eyelet from axial for a couple bucks. -it may come with it already. Those are big bore aluminum body shocks, and far better than the 3s and 4s v1 shocks.

If you really want to beef it up, taking it the rest of the way to a v2 kraton (without the chassis) is pretty awesome. You’d be looking at metal gearing in the diffs and spur, wider and stronger arms, and much stronger cvd axles, links, and hubs. All of that can be bought (bearings included) off Jenny’s, and makes for a far sturdier ride.

My recommendation would be the shocks and then upgrade to metal gears when you strip a plastic one. If you’re really loving the truck and want more for it, get the wide package off a v2.

So the v2 stuff fits on the V1

 

[Just a hobby]

Yes, I did the arms ,tie rods,shocks,shock towers. Big difference in handling and jumping. I already had hr diffs and my HD armma driveshafts are just long enough to run with the longer arms. And I have from m2c racing their motor mount

 

[quiznatodd bidness]

So the v2 stuff fits on the V1

Yes. When they introduced the v2 they replaced the plastic gears with metal (exact same size), made the chassis longer (“long wheel base” to “extra long wheel base”), made the shock towers a little beefier (same connection points), and made it wider. So you can intermix any of that so long as you get the parts that are dependent on the size changes. -like you need to get the new links and shafts if you change to the new arms to match the longer length. I believe the old hubs will fit the new arms, but I would absolutely encourage the new hubs as they’re far better.
Likewise, if you decide you want the longer chassis, you’ll need the longer center driveshaft, tower support, and new holes in your body.

There are a lot of people who make hybrid cars with the v2 parts. You can find them here or on YouTube!

 

[Greengaunja]

Now I wanna get the 1/5 kraton, that must be insane, but i would definitely like to upgraded the shocks, they seem way too soft like the bottom is just rubbing against the ground half the time

Don't let "soft shocks" be your factor for upgrading. That can be made stiffer with different springs/oil/pistons. Your factor here is stock shocks suck donkey balls!

 

[BudUMfan]

Welcome. Get a few new credit cards. I’d start with horizon hobby. J/K. Sorta….

 

[Mxminiracer99]

Don't let "soft shocks" be your factor for upgrading. That can be made stiffer with different springs/oil/pistons. Your factor here is stock shocks suck donkey balls!

Well I believe the shocks are blown seeing are covered in oil and dirt, and its sits pretty much on the ground. I have maybe 2hrs with this car and the guy I got it from had 15min so I will be buying some stuff if its letting go already
So only 4S parts bolt on, or does 6s and 8s too

 

[Mxminiracer99]

I ordered and installed v2 aluminum shocks, and noticed all my stock shocks were bent, so thats why they were blow out. I don't even remember hitting anything that's hard for that to happen, guess ill stock up on that, I also ordered the V2 suspension arms, so for that to work I just need the extra long CV shafts and turnbuckles? Also is there a way to tune the settings of tbe esc with my phone, or is that other versions. Thanks

 

[quiznatodd bidness]

I ordered and installed v2 aluminum shocks, and noticed all my stock shocks were bent, so thats why they were blow out. I don't even remember hitting anything that's hard for that to happen, guess ill stock up on that, I also ordered the V2 suspension arms, so for that to work I just need the extra long CV shafts and turnbuckles? Also is there a way to tune the settings of tbe esc with my phone, or is that other versions. Thanks

Yeah, and hubs I think… I need to check the diameters of the cvd axles, but I’m thinking they are a little bigger diameter and won’t fit the 3s hubs. -even if they did, it would be worth the extra to replace those too. They are a lot better. However, you also will need the outer hub that the tires screw onto. -those are cheap, but if you aren’t running a 17mm wheel, you’ll have to change those too. Stock 3s truck tires are all 14mm, but you could use stock typhon tires if the total diameter isn’t too weird. You’d probably be happiest with the wheels off a 4s outcast/kraton, but that’s another chunk to buy tires. Total list for the width change:

4s v2: arms, cvd axles, links, hub carriers (with bearings), 17mm hubs, 17mm wheels.

Wheels and axels are the big buys.

 

[Senton Sinn]

+1. Upgrading is a long, never-ending, downwards spiral of a Rabbit hole from which you NEVER emerge from. There is an actual RC Law of Modifications that states anything made faster is also by default made weaker.

What he said. But you can bash it up for 5 minutes saving Big Huge money on amazoo.
Stay brand Loyal and be happy breaking stock parts