I'm looking for clarity on Hub extensions for my 6s Typhoon

[21STalion]

Lower viscosity rear diff fluid and softer rear shocks is the cure for that. Increasing rear track width is more of a band-aid.

I appreciate the input. I don't see it as a bandaid, but I agree especially with regards to the rear diff fluid.

It's the 100k fluid in the middle I'm really struggling with trying to decide what to do with.

 

[Monster Dork]

I appreciate the input. I don't see it as a bandaid, but I agree especially with regards to the rear diff fluid.

It's the 100k fluid in the middle I'm really struggling with trying to decide what to do with.

On a truggified Typhon, 100k is maybe a little soft. 200k is about as stiff as I would go, but that's me, I like my cars to drive and handle very well. In the rear, I like 15k, and for the front, 30k. Stiffer front diff helps initiate corners, and a softer rear keeps the back side tracking.

If you like the look of a wide rear axle, then more power to you to use hub extensions. That's why we each bought our own!

 

[K-BASH]

 

[21STalion]

On a truggified Typhon, 100k is maybe a little soft. 200k is about as stiff as I would go, but that's me, I like my cars to drive and handle very well. In the rear, I like 15k, and for the front, 30k. Stiffer front diff helps initiate corners, and a softer rear keeps the back side tracking.

If you like the look of a wide rear axle, then more power to you to use hub extensions. That's why we each bought our own!

I'm running about 50k front w/ max LSD, and 100k middle and 10k rear w/max LSD. I don't like how the diffs feel like they loosen up over time - they are not consistent. Was thinking of dropping down to maybe a 15k/50k/5k.

There is some track use, I'm no racer, but I need the car to work there as well as bash as I plan to go to the track as much as possible.

I should clarify about the wheels and offset. I'm not really extending the hubs. I have the badlands with the removable hex hub centers. They are 1/2" offset and the stock belted katars are zero offset. So my whole truck is wider with these wheels - so are everyone elses trucks.

These wheels have increased the front track due to offset of the wheels, which is undesirable for my use. I am fixing this by purchasing the pro-line zero offset aluminum hex hub centers so I can still use the badland wheels/tires and keep the offset stock. The rear also has this offset, but in this case it is providing a desirable performance enhancement, so I ordered the pro-line aluminum 1/2" offset hex hubs to keep the track as-is. These are the same dimensions as the stock hex hubs that come on the pro-line badlands, only they are aluminum, the track does not get increased over using off the shelf pro-line badland wheels.

This is different than purchasing extended hex adapters from M2C or something and growing your track with extensions.

I am only playing with the wheel offset, and the wider track in the rear is great , the wider track in the front is pretty terrible.

Cheers!

 

[Guy on a Moose]

I had available 500k fluid so I’m running that in the Center. I like it. Tons of wheelies and hooks amazing. 100k fr and 50k rear (for straights, on power off-road) doesn't steer all that well lol. If you want to steer more I’d probably look at 50k/200k/20k(F/C/R). My go to base set up is half value of front in the rear, and twice the front in the Center. Typical race ideology but using heavyweights for bashing and straight line speed.(all off-road)