Is it normal to have the rear driveshafts on my Typhon 6s loose?

[Frank56]

Hi guys, brand new guy in the hobby here. I bought myself a Typhon 6s to get back in the hobby and I noticed right out of the box that the rear driveshafts have a little play in them. When I tilt the car, the driveshafts goes to the right or to the left a little bit and I hear a little *ding* from both driveshafts. Is it normal? My front driveshafts do not do that.
Thanks in advance guys!

 

[SrC]

Yes this is normal. They are Dog Bone shafts at both ends. Unlike the front driveshafts which are "CVD" style. Notice that the fronts and rears are different.
I can explin more, but don't want to confuse you further. Keeping it simple for you in the beginning.
Enjoy your new Typhon.
My TLRT Typhon is a blast running just 4s packs.
Welcome to AF.

 

[PrerunninF150]

Yes that is normal. The fronts are captured by the cvd so they don't slide back and forth at all. The rear is a dog bone setup and will naturally have a little play. Welcome back to the hobby! Edit: SrC beat me to it.

 

[Frank56]

Yes this is normal. They are Dog Bone shafts at both ends. Unlike the front driveshafts which are "CVD" style. Notice that the fronts and rears are different.
I can explin more, but don't want to confuse you further. Keeping it simple for you in the beginning.
Enjoy your new Typhon.
My TLRT Typhon is a blast running just 4s packs.
Welcome to AF.

Alright! Thanks for the reply! I bet the TLR is a blast to drive, I saw some videos about it, how it flies and everything!

Yes that is normal. The fronts are captured by the cvd so they don't slide back and forth at all. The rear is a dog bone setup and will naturally have a little play. Welcome back to the hobby! Edit: SrC beat me to it.

Thanks for the reply, and thanks for the welcoming words!

 

[Camaroboy383]

Hi guys, brand new guy in the hobby here. I bought myself a Typhon 6s to get back in the hobby and I noticed right out of the box that the rear driveshafts have a little play in them. When I tilt the car, the driveshafts goes to the right or to the left a little bit and I hear a little *ding* from both driveshafts. Is it normal? My front driveshafts do not do that.
Thanks in advance guys!

Welcome to the forum.....

 

[Sccott33]

Yes that is normal. The fronts are captured by the cvd so they don't slide back and forth at all. The rear is a dog bone setup and will naturally have a little play. Welcome back to the hobby! Edit: SrC beat me to it.

You can cut some real short pieces of nitro fuel line to fill up the void just don't make it too tight

 

[SrC]

Arrma has a diff. output drive cup rubber Insert part which can be used instead of Nitro Fuel line. Originally called an EXB specific part found on all the EXB 6s platforms. And only used with Dog bones at the rear. Not with the CVD shafts at the front.
I have them on the rear of my TLRT. Keeps my dog's chill. I trimmed them a tad so there is a slight bit of slack for the bones to slide as the control arms articulate up and down. You don't want the dog bones to bind. As they should slide L-R a bit.
The inserts came standard on many V5 6s rigs, mostly the EXB 6s line. Look closely to see if you already have them. They are not shown in the Blow up diagram.
I have also run the Front CVD's and their specific stub axels at the Rear of my V4 K6s and V1 Mojave with success. Many do that also. Tossing the rear dog bones altogether. Most high end track rigs run CVD's all around. For Bashing, Bones are fine at the rear.

https://www.arrma-rc.com/en/product/diff-outdrive-insert/ARA311028.html

 

[Frank56]

Yes this is normal. They are Dog Bone shafts at both ends. Unlike the front driveshafts which are "CVD" style. Notice that the fronts and rears are different.
I can explin more, but don't want to confuse you further. Keeping it simple for you in the beginning.
Enjoy your new Typhon.
My TLRT Typhon is a blast running just 4s packs.
Welcome to AF.

Hey, it's me again. I'm sorry if it's a noob question, but upon closer inspection, I took notice that my rear right wheel does not spin as freely as the 3 others. What I mean by that is that when I (once again tilt the car) the 3 wheels turn just a little bit, while the rear right one does not. It doesn't seem to have more resistance when I turn it with my hand. I don't know if it affects how it drives yet, I didn't get the chance to try it because of the bad weather around here. Is it a bearing that is already going bad? Does your typhon do that?
Thanks in advance!

 

[SrC]

Could very well be a BB. Worse case a bad diff.
I would remove the drive shaft on that wheel and check the BB that way for free spinning first. Check all your BB's this way, if there is any doubt.
Good to always have a complete set of BB's on hand. One by one they do wear out. Especially the stocker ones at the wheels, seem to go first.
Sometimes you can clean out a questionable BB, relube it and keep rolling. Maintaining BB's is another topic altogether. They can last quite abit if you maintain them and never run in the wet stuff. In the wet, Chromium BB's do rust out very fast, and again, especially at the wheels.
Go for it...

 

[Frank56]

Could very well be a BB. Worse case a bad diff.
I would remove the drive shaft on that wheel and check the BB that way for free spinning first. Check all your BB's this way, if there is any doubt.
Good to always have a complete set of BB's on hand. One by one they do wear out. Especially the stocker ones at the wheels, seem to go first.
Sometimes you can clean out a questionable BB, relube it and keep rolling. Maintaining BB's is another topic altogether. They can last quite abit if you maintain them and never run in the wet stuff. In the wet, Chromium BB's do rust out very fast, and again, especially at the wheels.
Go for it...

The diff seems to be fine as far as I know... It would bum me out if it's a diff issue, I just bought it yesterday... but yeah I should look at the bearing. With that said, how do you remove the driveshaft? I can't seem to find any video for the typhon specifically . Is it difficult?
Thanks

 

[SrC]

Crap happens, sometimes even out the box. How many runs on it so far???
At least Arrma/HH has a 2 year warranty on factory defects, with a valid receipt. A big Plus.
Get ready for some wrenching. With some quality Hand hex drivers. Just part and parcel for this hobby. You will be wrenching blindfolded in no time. Trust me. You will learn it inside and out quickly. Many videos out there. Others here will guide you if need be. You can always drive it to see how it feels. Then decide if it just needs a break-in. They tend to run a bit tight in the beginning. Diffs etc. Try not to over think it when its new. But do check over everything, just like you are doing. The only stupid question is the one you don't ask. Search AF on various topics.
I love my Typhon TLRT.
...

Some inspiration...

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/srcs-tlrt-typhon-build.47651/page-2#post-1022509

FWIW, I always take a new rig out the box and tear it down to rebuild it before I actually run it outdoors. Just me. I enjoy the wrenching thing. 80% of RC is wrenching. The rest is the driving part of it. The better you wrench, less will break and will drive much better, short of driver error damage, which is normal.
Replace with stock parts, at least in the beginning until you learn its weak points. Not many upgrades are needed with the 6s Typhon IMHO. Unless you plan on sending it 40ft in the air. Which I don't do with mine. I have my other 6s rigs for that.
I am getting 58mph on 4s packs. Plenty fast for me. On 6s, it seemed over the top. Typhon Buggy with 6s packs makes a great Speed Runner platform as well, running Belted on road wheels with Tall gearing.

 

[Frank56]

I didn't even get the chance to run it once because of the weather. I just inspected it to see if there was any defects, and this was the only thing that caught my attention.
I'm wondering if I should just get a replacement to see if the other one has that issue.

 

[SrC]

An idea. Your call....
Pull the diffs out and have a look see, since the weather is bad. Great experience. And should be maintained every 20-30 runs or so, normally. Good wrenching experince. What I do in the winter months. I run my rigs in dry weather. No snow.
I have my Crawlers for the wet/snow stuff.

 

[Frank56]

Crap happens, sometimes even out the box. How many runs on it so far???
At least Arrma/HH has a 2 year warranty on factory defects, with a valid receipt. A big Plus.
Get ready for some wrenching. With some quality Hand hex drivers. Just part and parcel for this hobby. You will be wrenching blindfolded in no time. Trust me. You will learn it inside and out quickly. Many videos out there. Others here will guide you if need be. You can always drive it to see how it feels. Then decide if it just needs a break-in. They tend to run a bit tight in the beginning. Diffs etc. Try not to over think it when its new. But do check over everything, just like you are doing. The only stupid question is the one you don't ask. Search AF on various topics.
I love my Typhon TLRT.
...

Some inspiration...

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/srcs-tlrt-typhon-build.47651/page-2#post-1022509

FWIW, I always take a new rig out the box and tear it down to rebuild it before I actually run it outdoors. Just me. I enjoy the wrenching thing. 80% of RC is wrenching. The rest is the driving part of it. The better you wrench, less will break and will drive much better, short of driver error damage, which is normal.
Replace with stock parts, at least in the beginning until you learn its weak points. Not many upgrades are needed with the 6s Typhon IMHO. Unless you plan on sending it 40ft in the air. Which I don't do with mine. I have my other 6s rigs for that.
I am getting 58mph on 4s packs. Plenty fast for me. On 6s, it seemed over the top. Typhon Buggy with 6s packs makes a great Speed Runner platform as well, running Belted on road wheels with Tall gearing.

Oh I didn't see that you edited your post. I'm gonna keep it and I'll break it in to see if it goes away. If it doesn't, then I'll put some elbow grease into it and work on it to make it perfect. Thanks for all the answers, it's very much appreciated and I'll come back here if I get any question.
Have a good one and keep on bashing!

 

[RCbuzz]

Arrma has a diff. output drive cup rubber Insert part which can be used instead of Nitro Fuel line. Originally called an EXB specific part found on all the EXB 6s platforms. And only used with Dog bones at the rear. Not with the CVD shafts at the front.
I have them on the rear of my TLRT. Keeps my dog's chill. I trimmed them a tad so there is a slight bit of slack for the bones to slide as the control arms articulate up and down. You don't want the dog bones to bind. As they should slide L-R a bit.
The inserts came standard on many V5 6s rigs, mostly the EXB 6s line. Look closely to see if you already have them. They are not shown in the Blow up diagram.
I have also run the Front CVD's and their specific stub axels at the Rear of my V4 K6s and V1 Mojave with success. Many do that also. Tossing the rear dog bones altogether. Most high end track rigs run CVD's all around. For Bashing, Bones are fine at the rear.

https://www.arrma-rc.com/en/product/diff-outdrive-insert/ARA311028.html

Do you run these only on the inner diff drive cup? Looks like a nice part offered by Arrma, going to have to grab a pack!