I'm moving to Torx, fed up with rounding hex bits & heads.

[triplebeastalpha]

I'm relatively new to RC, bought my first car about a year ago but the bug hit hard and I've now got quite a few cars. Love every aspect of the hobby except the cost. One thing I don't see talked about much is the stupid hex heads and how Torx is seemingly better in every way. I'm fed up with spending money on tools that round off every month or so and screws that will eventually do the same, making them a pain to remove. I appreciate there is a slight initial cost increase but surely that disappears with the savings over time. In the construction industry in the UK I'm seeing Torx increasingly used, for good reason too; no cam out, no rounding, no striped heads, bits last longer. The only issue I can see is it will be a little more difficult to remove dry mud from screws on the underside of the chassis. Am I missing something? Why is this not more commonplace in RC?


My plan is to buy a big variety of countersunk, socket cap & button head screws in m3 & m4 sizes. It'll cost about £50 initially. Slowly as I fix the cars I'll swap the hex socket screws for the new Torx ones. In my mind, this will greatly increase the lifespan of the screws and the bits and save a ton of hassle in the long run.

 

[Monster Dork]

You're right, that is what Torx is for. Dry mud comes out with a toothbrush. I think you're going to be in good shape once you buy all the hardware.

 

[triplebeastalpha]

You're right, that is what Torx is for. Dry mud comes out with a toothbrush. I think you're going to be in good shape once you buy all the hardware.

Do you use Torx in any cars?

 

[Monster Dork]

No, just hexes. I have a well-calibrated wrist, so I don't strip screws often enough to get frustrated over it. Small Torx sizes can be a little fiddly, just like hexes you need good tools to get good engagement. Stick with alloy steel or 400-series (magnetic!) stainless for best results. My machine tools (mill, lathe, etc.) use small Torx for insert hold-downs, and they are very tough, but they're also top-shelf fasteners, not Amazon-China grade stuff.

 

[triplebeastalpha]

No, just hexes. I have a well-calibrated wrist, so I don't strip screws often enough to get frustrated over it. Small Torx sizes can be a little fiddly, just like hexes you need good tools to get good engagement. Stick with alloy steel or 400-series (magnetic!) stainless for best results. My machine tools (mill, lathe, etc.) use small Torx for insert hold-downs, and they are very tough, but they're also top-shelf fasteners, not Amazon-China grade stuff.

The good quality screws don't strip too quickly but all it seems to take is a partially rounded head (usually on a cheap screw from a cheap car) to ruin both screw and bit. No doubt my technique is lacking a bit as well but it seems like Torx would remove all those issues. From my experience, it seems significantly better but in construction, it's usually t20 and up in sizes, not used the t10 bit much. The options available are mainly stainless steel, A2 & A4 grade, so not magnetic but good rust resistance, can't seem to find any high tensile 12.9 steel but should be fine for most applications I assume. As far as tools go, I've already got a load of DeWalt Torx bits which should do the job, plus Hudy look to be releasing some nice drivers which I may pick up at a later date.

 

[jondilly1974]

I try my best to swap all screws to cap head, which increases the bit size for the same size shaft. This give more head to bit strength. This isn’t always possible, but the places I can do it, it fixes these issues.

 

[ABabyEater]

Getting a high quality driver set like MIP or protek is also extremely helpful. I can personally speak for both brands, and I haven't stripped a screw barring obvious user error since

 

[Monster Dork]

Even the cheep, ubiquitous Amazon RC hex driver set I have measures within 5 microns of nominal size. I have chittier hex kits (non-RC) that say things like Husky or Chesco on the handle that measure 150 microns undersize. The key (pun damned straight) to not stripping starts with the fit.

 

[triplebeastalpha]

I’ve probably not spent the money on a good set then. Ive bought expensive sets though, even bought a Wera hex plus set which was not cheap, but I don’t use them exclusively. It does tend to be the cheaper heads and cheaper bits that round off quicker but nothing seems immune and Torx heads seem to improve on everything good and bad about hex. I don’t really see a downside with using Torx as it stands, the bits and heads should last years of wrenching with no ill effects. Plus I’ve used cheap bits on my screws for months already so the damage has probably already been done, many will likely need replacing within the year anyway and an already damaged screw can round off even the best fitting hex bit.

 

[nino]

I don't feel like switching, and it would make me incompatible with my RC buddies' trucks. So less chance of a field repair getting done.

Been doing some work around the house lately, torx all the way. A couple of construction guys that helped out switched from Philips.

For RC I mostly use my Arrowmax bits. Recently got an EDS 1.5 tip and an MIP 1.5 driver bit. Both hella snug. With decent screws (Arrma stock ones included) there's no problem. I sanded down the ends of my Arrowmax tips once or twice to keep them sharp.

Like jondilly, I swap to 2.5mm cap heads where possible!

 

[HZRDOS]

I’ve probably not spent the money on a good set then. Ive bought expensive sets though, even bought a Wera hex plus set which was not cheap, but I don’t use them exclusively. It does tend to be the cheaper heads and cheaper bits that round off quicker but nothing seems immune and Torx heads seem to improve on everything good and bad about hex. I don’t really see a downside with using Torx as it stands, the bits and heads should last years of wrenching with no ill effects. Plus I’ve used cheap bits on my screws for months already so the damage has probably already been done, many will likely need replacing within the year anyway and an already damaged screw can round off even the best fitting hex bit.

So you are saying you are not using good drivers, and the issue is rounding the heads.


Now....think about that and see if you can find a simple answer....
I use only MIP drivers, and work on 3 cars all the time. Have never stripped a screw (other than one damaged from a curb after a crash).

 

[Clubin]

It will be impossible to find all the selection you need to duplicate the screws. It will be a abortion. I’d suggest not. Buy good tools and good fasteners.

 

[triplebeastalpha]

It will be impossible to find all the selection you need to duplicate the screws. It will be a abortion. I’d suggest not. Buy good tools and good fasteners.

I’ve already found all the screws needed, it’s pretty easy to source that kinda stuff in the uk.

So you are saying you are not using good drivers, and the issue is rounding the heads.


Now....think about that and see if you can find a simple answer....
I use only MIP drivers, and work on 3 cars all the time. Have never stripped a screw (other than one damaged from a curb after a crash).

I have bought good quality bits in recent months, I’ve got an arrowmax set and an a wera hex plus set but I’ve already partially ruined any heads I’ve removed before with the cheapo hex sets I bought off banggood. I wasn’t sure the solution was to replace the ruined ones with hex heads that may or may not round off again, or just put bulletproof Torx ones in. I haven’t had the luxury of only using nice bits with new heads, that’s why I thought I’d ask here to see what others experiences are. I wasn’t sure the good bits would make all that much difference but obviously I’m wrong. It’s still a decision I have to make as I’ll probably be buying the same amount of screws either way, seemed like a good time to start the transition. Also the damaged heads seem to round the good bits which kinda makes em crap anyway. Seems like I need to take more time to replace the worst screws, try out the good bits and see if it’s workable, will save mone

I don't feel like switching, and it would make me incompatible with my RC buddies' trucks. So less chance of a field repair getting done.

Been doing some work around the house lately, torx all the way. A couple of construction guys that helped out switched from Philips.

For RC I mostly use my Arrowmax bits. Recently got an EDS 1.5 tip and an MIP 1.5 driver bit. Both hella snug. With decent screws (Arrma stock ones included) there's no problem. I sanded down the ends of my Arrowmax tips once or twice to keep them sharp.

Like jondilly, I swap to 2.5mm cap heads where possible!

I had thought about the annoyance of compatibility issues but figured it wouldn’t be too bad, just take some Torx bits out with me instead. I’m moving in a month and won’t have any RC buddies anyway

I appreciate the advice though, from everyone, this is why I’m asking.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

I have not stripped a hex in years since I got a set of MIP wrenches.
Some of that is also getting a good feel for how tight to make your screws, but my MIP drivers get out red Loctite screws without issues every time.

 

[HZRDOS]

Get a new screw set kit off Jennysrc.com for cheap. Get set of MIP drivers. Replace the screws with new as you need to remove them.

 

[triplebeastalpha]

Get a new screw set kit off Jennysrc.com for cheap. Get set of MIP drivers. Replace the screws with new as you need to remove them.

I’m in the UK so there’s fewer options but I’ve got a couple of good sets. As you say, I’ll just have to swap out worn for new, stills requires buying a load of screws but no new tools I guess.

 

[RC-Dad]

torx hardware at these small sizes may not be the answer you are after. The lack of 12.9 grade would be a deal breaker if I was considering it.

 

[Twitchfast]

Personally I find torx to be useful for a loose hex head, it's my go-to if all else fails.
whack in the largest torx you can fit, then hope to christ you can break the bolt free.
I have decent allen keys but it's not like they're infallible.

 

[slick2500]

I try my best to swap all screws to cap head, which increases the bit size for the same size shaft. This give more head to bit strength. This isn’t always possible, but the places I can do it, it fixes these issues.

I do this as well, I need to restock on my cap heads though, I'm all out of a lot of sizes.

 

[5mall5nail5]

If you think Torx is good, check out Torx Plus. I do high end automotive builds and have moved to Torx Plus screws. I get them from McMaster Carr.