Granite Input Gear Bearing Removal

wisceaux

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Does anyone have a good way to remove the bearing closest to the input gear teeth? I spent like 30 minutes trying to get it off, eventually just prying it off, and am worried I might have nicked up that gear. I also struggled to get one of the bearings on the side of the diff off, and again struggled to get it back on. Any general tips and tricks about bearing maintenance. I've heard people talk about 'the bread trick', but I'm not sure that applies with these bearings.

Thanks!
 

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Camaroboy383

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Does anyone have a good way to remove the bearing closest to the input gear teeth? I spent like 30 minutes trying to get it off, eventually just prying it off, and am worried I might have nicked up that gear. I also struggled to get one of the bearings on the side of the diff off, and again struggled to get it back on. Any general tips and tricks about bearing maintenance. I've heard people talk about 'the bread trick', but I'm not sure that applies with these bearings.

Thanks!

bread trick is to hydraulic a bearing out of a sealed bore... not applicable in this situation.. there is no proper way, (yet) just have to work the pinion off evenly, once it is any kind of out of square it will bind severely.. i typically work the bearing up a touch with a small flat head, then i just use my fingers to hold the bearing and thumb to push the pinion out.. (im currently in the process of designing a tool to remove them easily)✌
 

jondilly1974

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I use a flathead screwdriver to get the input bearing started. Just work your way around and twist the screwdriver a tiny bit at a time. Once you work it down the shaft enough to get needlenose pliers between the gear and the bearing, I progressively work them in there and wiggle the handles to use leverage to work it down further. As it slides a little, slide the pliers in where they are thicker and keep working it down. It will take 5 mins or so. Just be patient.
 

wisceaux

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This is basically the method I employed. It's uncommon I stumble on the correct way to do something first time out lol, but I guess I did in this case.

On a side note, does anyone know what the extra 10x15x4 bearing is used for in the Fast Eddy kit? As best I can tell there are only 6 present on the 3s line kits. I figured it was just an extra.
 

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I use a flathead screwdriver to get the input bearing started. Just work your way around and twist the screwdriver a tiny bit at a time. Once you work it down the shaft enough to get needlenose pliers between the gear and the bearing, I progressively work them in there and wiggle the handles to use leverage to work it down further. As it slides a little, slide the pliers in where they are thicker and keep working it down. It will take 5 mins or so. Just be patient.

THis is what I do, pretty much. Sometimes, that bearing gets damaged a bit...
 

jondilly1974

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This is basically the method I employed. It's uncommon I stumble on the correct way to do something first time out lol, but I guess I did in this case.

On a side note, does anyone know what the extra 10x15x4 bearing is used for in the Fast Eddy kit? As best I can tell there are only 6 present on the 3s line kits. I figured it was just an extra.
There are a few potential spares in a bearing kit. There are two versions of the slipper, one uses a flanged and the other no flange. So you will have one extra there. Also the SWB Granite doesn’t have a center driveshaft bearing, but all of the LWB rigs do. So a Granite will have two spares.
 

parcou

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Not a bad idea honestly, It'd be something like $10 for the input gear and the two bearings it requires I think.
I had the same issue and it took me over 30min as well...so much a pain I added one to my wish list at Amain for next time...then I found this and added to my notes from a user here and said I would try this next time:

  • Input Gear Inner Bearing Removal
    • Had one of the thin wrenches that came with one of my saws that is for tightening the blade, happens to fit around the plastic part but still smaller than the bearing. After I used the screwdriver to pry the bearing enough to get that wrench in there, set the metal part on the ground and used a hammer to tap the wrench and push the bearing down. Worked amazingly well! Maybe that will help someone else out too.
 

Airontay

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I changed bearings on my Granite yesterday. I work the bearing down with a flat head screw drive until I could fit needle nose pliers on top the bearing. Then I tapped the pliers with a hammer and it pooped right off. If will take bit to move it down the spur. The plastic spur is pretty solid, I just put a small piece of a cut cloth to protect the spur as I wedged it off. Good luck.
 

Arrmature

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Has anybody tried putting the input gear in the freezer for a couple of hours or is it a bad idea to freeze the plastic.? I would think the bearing would come off easily if the assembly were cold enough.
 

parcou

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Has anybody tried putting the input gear in the freezer for a couple of hours or is it a bad idea to freeze the plastic.? I would think the bearing would come off easily if the assembly were cold enough.
Never tried it so if you do let us know....however there have been some good solutions posted above...
 

Camaroboy383

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Has anybody tried putting the input gear in the freezer for a couple of hours or is it a bad idea to freeze the plastic.? I would think the bearing would come off easily if the assembly were cold enough.
you would need to flash freeze it while the bearing remains warm.. if it all cools evenly, it all contracts evenly.. 👍
 

Arrmature

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if it all cools evenly, it all contracts evenly.. 👍
That's true if everything's made of the same material. Plastics (and composites) have a higher thermal expansion coefficient than steel and so will contract more when cooled and expand more when heated. The automotive industry battled that problem for quite some time when they introduced composite intake manifolds.
 

Camaroboy383

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That's true if everything's made of the same material. Plastics (and composites) have a higher thermal expansion coefficient than steel and so will contract more when cooled and expand more when heated. The automotive industry battled that problem for quite some time when they introduced composite intake manifolds.

for sure give it a go, id be surprised if it worked due to the nature of the fit.. but hell, nothing to lose trying it that is for sure..👍
 

GRC

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Wow, great tip. This was a huge pain.
 

Arrmature

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Did the second one this morning - 45 minutes in the freezer door. It came off more easily than the first. 30 minutes in the freezer is probably enough.
 

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