Vorteks Metal input gear?

[mercer1987]

Went out with the kids on the weekend and my niece managed to strip my input gear slamming full speed into a wall and holding the throttle on, luckily the diff crown is still intact, but my question is can I get away with using the arrma metal input gear on the stock plastic diff crown? I’m going to upgrade the diff eventually but would it hold up with the metal input for now or will it shred straight away?

 

[Rcbasher123]

Your diff will most likely strip or at least wear it out a lot

 

[dure16]

I’ve never tried it, but many cars use metal pinions and plastic spurs, including your Vorteks.

It might be fine for a while.

 

[morrjr71]

The metal input gear might wear out the crown gear prematurely, but I doubt it will strip it quickly if you set the mesh properly.

 

[mercer1987]

It’ll be on next months upgrade list so not too long

 

[morrjr71]

I bit the bullet and bought the Arrma CNC steel geared transmission modules for my Infraction 3s. I didn’t have a problem with the stock gears, but I believe in making my vehicles more durable to prevent a possible problem later on.

 

[Hector_Fisher]

The general advice is to replace gears as a set. If one is worn, odds are the other has some wears that's not too far behind. Gears need the full surface to mesh correctly and distribute load. So if one is worn and other isn't, it's asking for trouble.

I don't think i've ever seen anyone pair a steel diff input with a plastic spur. You could be the first to experiment and let us know how it goes

I would still replace the spur regardless. If a steel input gear would wear a plastic spur faster than a plastic input gear would, then a steel input would wear a worn plastic spur even faster.

 

[Chowmein]

Jennyrc.com arrma-trucks-kraton 4sV2.metal up grade to the 3s line

The general advice is to replace gears as a set. If one is worn, odds are the other has some wears that's not too far behind. Gears need the full surface to mesh correctly and distribute load. So if one is worn and other isn't, it's asking for trouble.

I don't think i've ever seen anyone pair a steel diff input with a plastic spur. You could be the first to experiment and let us know how it goes

I would still replace the spur regardless. If a steel input gear would wear a plastic spur faster than a plastic input gear would, then a steel input would wear a worn plastic spur even faster.

It destroys the plastic gear with a metal gear maybe one bashing 2 depending on how much bashing and sending

 

[mercer1987]

Jennyrc.com arrma-trucks-kraton 4sV2.metal up grade to the 3s line

It destroys the plastic gear with a metal gear maybe one bashing 2 depending on how much bashing and sending

Which would be stronger, the arrma cnc metal spur gear or the krayton diff assy?

 

[Hector_Fisher]

Which would be stronger, the arrma cnc metal spur gear or the krayton diff assy?

If you're just putting this into a regular vorteks, then i don't think it matter much. Get whichever is cheaper.

If the 4s kraton diff is good for the 4s kraton (heavier truck) on 4s, then you should be fine to run it in a vorteks. The CNC is just bragging rights.

 

[mercer1987]

Well I ordered the cnc metal crown gear to go along with the metal input gear, however I’ve been reading a few post on here and now I’m thinking I should probably get a new metal yoke to finish it off properly, any thoughts on this and which metal yoke should I go with?

 

[Senton_Prime]

For anyone wanting to know how well a steel pinion will mesh with a composite spur, or how terrible.. I got the data!!

Well I've been rocking this setup out on my mega for a few months now.. and trust me I run the dog tar out of her!! It works flawlessly.. now I will say your mesh abilities must be on point!! I don't see one mark on the composite spur!!

 

[quiznatodd bidness]

Which would be stronger, the arrma cnc metal spur gear or the krayton diff assy?

Cnc is stronger and more expensive, though not as expensive as a hot racing full assembly. I’ve seen other metal options on Amazon for about $50. Not sure how they compare…

 

[Velodromed]

A rear cnc diff is on of the few metal upgrades I like. Below are the parts needed. I got mine on Amain hobby, their $2.98 shipping isn’t bad. You can buy them or build one using the internal metal gears in your stock diff. It’s not hard to do and runs around $50 not including diff oil. I like 15-20k diff oil rear and 25-30k front. You can also get one off jennysrc.com from the new 4s outcast or granite. $38 diff+$26 for two inputs+$6 shipping. One thing that does help the stock composite diff last is the hot racing metal diff yoke. It’s pricey though at $36. There are off brands for cheaper, however they have mixed results quality wise.

 

[mercer1987]

A rear cnc diff is on of the few metal upgrades I like. Below are the parts needed. I got mine on Amain hobby, their $2.98 shipping isn’t bad. You can buy them or build one using the internal metal gears in your stock diff. It’s not hard to do and runs around $50 not including diff oil. I like 15-20k diff oil rear and 25-30k front. You can also get one off jennysrc.com from the new 4s outcast or granite. $38 diff+$26 for two inputs+$6 shipping. One thing that does help the stock composite diff last is the hot racing metal diff yoke. It’s pricey though at $36. There are off brands for cheaper, however they have mixed results quality wise.

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Yeah I got the parts to build my own, except I’ve noticed the new cnc crown gear is a tad smaller than the stock plastic one and the metal input gear I got seems too big

 

[Velodromed]

Yeah I got the parts to build my own, except I’ve noticed the new cnc crown gear is a tad smaller than the stock plastic one and the metal input gear I got seems too big

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Ahh…that’s the wrong input, I think that’s for the new 4s sintered metal diffs. Honestly I’m not sure if it would or wouldn’t work. The right one has the part number I posted that previous picture, #ara310886. It’s made to go with the CNC ring gear.

 

[mercer1987]

Ahh…that’s the wrong input, I think that’s for the new 4s sintered metal diffs. Honestly I’m not sure if it would or wouldn’t work. The right one has the part number I posted that previous picture, #ara310886. It’s made to go with the CNC ring gear.

Yeah the site I always use for parts only had this one listed,I didn’t think to look for a cnc version I’m going to see how it spins once all put together,

 

[Velodromed]

Yeah the site I always use for parts only had this one listed,I didn’t think to look for a cnc version I’m going to see how it spins once all put together,

Doesn’t hurt to try. Can always pick up a sintered diff off jennysrc.com for $38+6 shipping. I’ve been running two for the last couple months without issue.

 

[mercer1987]

Doesn’t hurt to try. Can always pick up a sintered diff off jennysrc.com for $38+6 shipping. I’ve been running two for the last couple months without issue.

Well I put it all together but I’m having the same problem I had with the plastic diff, there seems to be a high spot somewhere that’s binding slightly, it spins nice and smooth until I put the second half of the yoke on top and then it gets real tight in certain spots, it was exactly the same with the plastic diff so I’m thinking the yoke may be the problem, I’ve ordered the hr yoke to see if that makes a difference

 

[morrjr71]

Well I put it all together but I’m having the same problem I had with the plastic diff, there seems to be a high spot somewhere that’s binding slightly, it spins nice and smooth until I put the second half of the yoke on top and then it gets real tight in certain spots, it was exactly the same with the plastic diff so I’m thinking the yoke may be the problem, I’ve ordered the hr yoke to see if that makes a difference

The HR yokes solved the binding issue in my Typhon 3s with stock diffs. I continued to use the HR yokes with the CNC steel geared transmission modules I installed in my Typhon 3s, and I bought a set for my Infraction 3s with the CNC modules. The gear mesh on both vehicles is buttery smooth.